I looked through the FAQ here and saw nothing about the
Swans S3W 2.0 desktop amp for computer and MP3 use. It's like it doesn't exist in these forums-- very hard to find anyone here who is
using it, modding it or anything else.
Parts Express has it but for this type of electronics there is a lot of questions.
Plus I think that the deal cycle at PE will bring them around to a better price.
How did Swans, a high end small format speaker maker, get into this?
Can the HiVi speakers (that brand was mentioned in some review headers) be modded to a more traditional box build as full range.
Has anybody modded the tripath shell to something more traditional?
I have not even seen a good enough picture that shows where the
volume is.
More normal forum reading takes place in Full Range Loudspeakers.
Swans S3W 2.0 desktop amp for computer and MP3 use. It's like it doesn't exist in these forums-- very hard to find anyone here who is
using it, modding it or anything else.
Parts Express has it but for this type of electronics there is a lot of questions.
Plus I think that the deal cycle at PE will bring them around to a better price.
How did Swans, a high end small format speaker maker, get into this?
Can the HiVi speakers (that brand was mentioned in some review headers) be modded to a more traditional box build as full range.
Has anybody modded the tripath shell to something more traditional?
I have not even seen a good enough picture that shows where the
volume is.
More normal forum reading takes place in Full Range Loudspeakers.
Good pix
I found the pix of the Swans but also a lot of questions as to how to switch out to a different speaker pair.
http://av123forum.com/showthread.php?t=30829
Any advice appreciated.
What is apparently going on here is that the speakers are tethered like an umbilical to the amp. This makes zero sense to me.
I found the pix of the Swans but also a lot of questions as to how to switch out to a different speaker pair.
http://av123forum.com/showthread.php?t=30829
Any advice appreciated.
What is apparently going on here is that the speakers are tethered like an umbilical to the amp. This makes zero sense to me.
I've had a pair of these as my computer speakers for over a year. (I was the 1st to import them to the US).
It's a fun little set. The amp is in the volume control - and yes, it is connected to the speakers buy a cable.
The fun thing about these is that they are cheap, and have a Tripath chip amp. A few little mods (new caps) and a better power supply help them a lot.
The speakers are nice - no real highs or lows - but what they do have is pleasant enough. The midrange is very good.
I enjoy having the volume control right on my desk, kinda like the Griffin USB thing.
It's a fun little set. The amp is in the volume control - and yes, it is connected to the speakers buy a cable.
The fun thing about these is that they are cheap, and have a Tripath chip amp. A few little mods (new caps) and a better power supply help them a lot.
The speakers are nice - no real highs or lows - but what they do have is pleasant enough. The midrange is very good.
I enjoy having the volume control right on my desk, kinda like the Griffin USB thing.
So if you get the grilles off or no is there some sort of effective way to make the pigtails a female end of a connector to hook up some other speaks?
If for instance the wiring had thread in it it would preclude soldering.
If the wire is stranded or solid, a female end of a bullet connector or other more refined end could be used. Or a soldered splice would eliminate using too many connectors in the sound path.
Since I have my Fostex Fe127e currently running off of a hacked boombox with 3 watts out, I know that even that much juice can run my primary listening setup.
Plus I have the FE167e breaking in for a new build project.
If for instance the wiring had thread in it it would preclude soldering.
If the wire is stranded or solid, a female end of a bullet connector or other more refined end could be used. Or a soldered splice would eliminate using too many connectors in the sound path.
Since I have my Fostex Fe127e currently running off of a hacked boombox with 3 watts out, I know that even that much juice can run my primary listening setup.
Plus I have the FE167e breaking in for a new build project.
Yeah, I got a black one about 8 months ago to use on holiday.
Cool looking little gizmo but very tight in there... like Pano says, change out the power caps. I DC coupled it to my iPod as well with decent input/FB resistors, this seemed to give better base.
The only T-amp I've got with a revC TA2024 as well..... and I have a lot, not as many as Pano probably though
I bet Planet10 could come up with a good cab if he could get the drivers out..... what do you think Dave?
Cool looking little gizmo but very tight in there... like Pano says, change out the power caps. I DC coupled it to my iPod as well with decent input/FB resistors, this seemed to give better base.
The only T-amp I've got with a revC TA2024 as well..... and I have a lot, not as many as Pano probably though
I bet Planet10 could come up with a good cab if he could get the drivers out..... what do you think Dave?
Yes they would. =) They really don't go very high, I measured but don't remember. But with some added bass they'd be quite nice.
IIRC, there is still a pile of these sitting at AudioMagus without amps. (Swan's mistake). Don't know if they would be willing to part with them.
The one funky thing is the 4 conductor mini-plug used on the speakers. It has to be 4 conductor because, as we know, you can't use a common speaker ground. Not an easy to find connector.
I've seen it done the other way - speakers on other amps - so yes.
IIRC, there is still a pile of these sitting at AudioMagus without amps. (Swan's mistake). Don't know if they would be willing to part with them.
The one funky thing is the 4 conductor mini-plug used on the speakers. It has to be 4 conductor because, as we know, you can't use a common speaker ground. Not an easy to find connector.
I've seen it done the other way - speakers on other amps - so yes.
What is the reason for designing four conductor leads?
A reason to put "no user serviceable parts within" on the bottom plate? Like Compaq computers in the old days: a twisted wire on the HD connection so it wouldn't work with anything but OEM parts.
Makes me think these jobbies are headed for the closeout deal flier.
A reason to put "no user serviceable parts within" on the bottom plate? Like Compaq computers in the old days: a twisted wire on the HD connection so it wouldn't work with anything but OEM parts.
Makes me think these jobbies are headed for the closeout deal flier.
resurrecting this thread from the dead...
anybody know how to get those grills off? I removed the screws, tried twisting off the front part but no succes.
I am new so forgive me for resurrecting ancient history. I have successfully removed the grills on the swans s3w. It took some doing, I pried the grill up and out of the case with a flat blade screwdriver and when I got something to grip I used needle nosed pliers to pull the grill the rest of the way off. It is glued on in about 3-4 spots and it's not easy to pull apart... I must admit I slightly marred the lip of the sphere with the screwdriver. In hindsight I would use some sort of hook on the grill metal holes to pry an edge up with (if it's possible). However, it can be done... and there is a difference. Like all full range drivers these need to be angled in a bit towards the listener but with the grill off... they image much better. I am a big fan... am going to change the caps, and am already using a 12v supply (big difference)... am thinking of putting a pair of these on top of a bofu (pioneeer b20) speaker with a capacitor to block the lows/hi's anybody ever try these drivers in a cab? with an assisting woofer?
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