The PHT-407N tweeters and a cross over are preferred to the piezo from a sound quality perspective. My undertstanding is the piezo was selected because it was quite inexpensive, did a competent job, and a proper crossover was not needed, just a resistor.
Saturnus, please correct me if I am mistaken on these points.
The tweeters are ~$30 each from Loudspeakers Plus. That doesn't seem like much of a premium given all the other costs of getting a Boominator up and running.
Regarding vibrations:
The driver magnets are glued to the rib that divides the front and rear speaker 'compartments'. In essence this is one large monocoque construction with very short spans of unbraced wood. The 4" and 6" mini Boominators I built are very dead cabinets (no vibrations) even when constructed of thin materials.
It is a brilliantly engineered design.
The driver magnets are glued to the rib that divides the front and rear speaker 'compartments'. In essence this is one large monocoque construction with very short spans of unbraced wood. The 4" and 6" mini Boominators I built are very dead cabinets (no vibrations) even when constructed of thin materials.
It is a brilliantly engineered design.
aterren, you are correct. As I also stated just a few posts back.
In short... all of it. But I think I have adequately explained the function of each part, the considerations behind it, and why it cannot be any other way than it is previously in this thread (although some of that may be a few hundred pages back
)
In short... all of it. But I think I have adequately explained the function of each part, the considerations behind it, and why it cannot be any other way than it is previously in this thread (although some of that may be a few hundred pages back
)
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@lutkeveld
I just received my email back from Sure Electronics - this is what they had to say
Series Coil for GW-1058
From Saturnus
"Also note that with GW-1058 I do recommend a series coil on the woofers to roll-off from 4Khz as the roll-off of the GW-1058 isn't as controlled and well dampened as the HP10W."
Can anyone recommend the right coil? The coil/inductor acts as a simple first order low pass filter, right? The impedance of the Goldwood woofer is about 16Ohm at 4Khz.
thanks
From Saturnus
"Also note that with GW-1058 I do recommend a series coil on the woofers to roll-off from 4Khz as the roll-off of the GW-1058 isn't as controlled and well dampened as the HP10W."
Can anyone recommend the right coil? The coil/inductor acts as a simple first order low pass filter, right? The impedance of the Goldwood woofer is about 16Ohm at 4Khz.
thanks
My goal for the season is to switch from TA2020 into a new solution with more power to the boominator and I find the TPA3116 boards interesting since it has good efficiency/runs cool and has the ability to run on 4.5V-26V leaving up to teoretically 2x50W. The plan is to aim for 2x 35-40w and maybe with options to feed 12v, 18v or 24v for different occasions.
Now to the big question:
Would you guys consider it wise to keep a AMP9-basic for this job?? (solder it together last sunday and tested it fully functional today)
Or will it be a better choice to get rid of the AMP9 and go for the newer TPA3116 board since the AMP9 would be overkill? What about sound quality and playtime?
Now to the big question:
Would you guys consider it wise to keep a AMP9-basic for this job?? (solder it together last sunday and tested it fully functional today)
Or will it be a better choice to get rid of the AMP9 and go for the newer TPA3116 board since the AMP9 would be overkill? What about sound quality and playtime?
Assuming you have 2 drivers in parallel (8Ohms), a 0.3 mH inductor gives a -3dB point of 4245 Hz. Going to 0.33 mH would give 3,858kHz. Both are values available at Parts Express
Fc = R/2*Pi*L; Two 16 Ohm loads in parallel = 8 ohms.
Most recent XO from Saturnus
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I finally got a chance to glue my boominator together.
There was a considerable gap (around 10mm) which I compressed with clamps, I used devcon 2 ton epoxy
I left it all clamped up for 24hrs.
Today I opened it all up and disaster struck. As I took the clamps off the bonds broke, firstly the center then one end after that a slight pull and it was all in pieces again. Any ideas where I've gone wrong? I think I used too much chemical metal which I've just spent an hour chipping off but I'd have thought the epoxy would hold better then it did.
There was a considerable gap (around 10mm) which I compressed with clamps, I used devcon 2 ton epoxy
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I left it all clamped up for 24hrs.
Today I opened it all up and disaster struck. As I took the clamps off the bonds broke, firstly the center then one end after that a slight pull and it was all in pieces again. Any ideas where I've gone wrong? I think I used too much chemical metal which I've just spent an hour chipping off but I'd have thought the epoxy would hold better then it did.