Just out of curiosity: what price are you looking for?
Check out your private messages.
I'm fully aware the boominator is designed to be placed on the ground and other use is probably not recommended.
But, if a boominator design were to be placed on a cart like the fri ost or even vertically (upright) like the swedish malen (with the vu meter), how much volume would need to be deducted from a compartment that's raised off the ground to compensate? Say elevation is about 50-60cm
Here are some photos of my progress so far. Still long way to go.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
To get the same output, you need to add to the volume of each compartment raised but you'll also have to retune the reflex tuning. How much volume should be added? Technically % increase in volume = elevation in cm / Pi, so about 1% for every 3cm raised. When calculating how much it raised it's the center of the woofers that count.
@doonib, looks good so far
Remember to give the internal cut-outs some paint or primer as well.
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@donnib
Looks great so far! Nice and clean cuts you have there I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product. Remember to take lots of fotos of everything and upload them into a folder which you link to here.
One thing I've been missing is also to see what people had problems with when they were assembling the boominator, so maybe you could me (and possibly other people) a favor and take some pictures of those situations?
For instance - I had a lot of problems getting the middle bracing to fit perfectly together with the rest of the boominator and the HP-10W units.
Keep up the fine work!
Looks great so far! Nice and clean cuts you have there
I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product. Remember to take lots of fotos of everything and upload them into a folder which you link to here. One thing I've been missing is also to see what people had problems with when they were assembling the boominator, so maybe you could me (and possibly other people) a favor and take some pictures of those situations?
For instance - I had a lot of problems getting the middle bracing to fit perfectly together with the rest of the boominator and the HP-10W units.
Keep up the fine work!
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@doonib, looks good so far
Oh i did not know it was important. Now i know. An primer is probably what i will do.
@donnib
Looks great so far! Nice and clean cuts you have there
One thing I've been missing is also to see what people had problems with when they were assembling the boominator, so maybe you could me (and possibly other people) a favor and take some pictures of those situations?
For instance - I had a lot of problems getting the middle bracing to fit perfectly together with the rest of the boominator and the HP-10W units.
Keep up the fine work!
I can't say that i have taken many pictures sorry. It is hard when you only have limited ammount of time to do the work to also take pictures. For me personal most time took to do following until now :
1. Make the port. It was complicated to make it round and to make 3 pieces of wood exactly or close to perfect to match. I drilled a hole then used a saw to create the port round.
2. Make the cuttings on the brace. I used an cup drill to drill all holes then rounded them on both side with an router.
3. Used allot of time making sure where the speaker holes should be and making sure they would be the correct size.
4. I used huge ammount of time measuring the speaker to figure out the hole size. I used an router with an special circle mount to cut the speaker holes.
5. I tried to measure the speakers and the 3 plywood (12mm) + 2 grill to figure out if everything would fit in 300mm and i got 300.9mm when i measure.
6. I still have issues with the grill and the way the speaker is going to be mounted to the plywood. I took the plastic sealing from the grill off as i read that it is not suppose to be there and if i put the grill from the inside and then the speaker on top of it i cannot figure out how the glue should hold the speaker, grill in place on the plywood even if saturnus said it would. I will use some small screws (<12mm length) to fix the speaker and the grill, at the same time use glue then seal with sillicone at last. Hope it will hold.
7. I have not got to the electronics besides that the amplifier is build and tested so i need to hook everything up.
8. I still need to cut out holdes between the "speaker" cabinets and the electronics compartment.
/donnib
Regarding point 5. and 6. There still should be about 1.5-2mm gap on both sides, that is why you need a sealing gasket. The assembly is like this:
plywood
sealing gasket
grill w/o rubber band
speaker
plywood
speaker
grill w/o rubber band
sealing gasket
plywood
It sounds strange that you got 1mm in surplus. I have no idea how that can be really. It's not a huge problem since you already have a router you can just cut a circle about 1 mm deep in the center brace where the magnets go on each side to make it fit. Then you can drop the sealing gasket and just keep the rubber bands on the grills on.
plywood
sealing gasket
grill w/o rubber band
speaker
plywood
speaker
grill w/o rubber band
sealing gasket
plywood
It sounds strange that you got 1mm in surplus. I have no idea how that can be really. It's not a huge problem since you already have a router you can just cut a circle about 1 mm deep in the center brace where the magnets go on each side to make it fit. Then you can drop the sealing gasket and just keep the rubber bands on the grills on.
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This is the calculation :
Speaker : (122,7+8,5mm) x 2 = 262,4mm (taken from datasheet)
Plywood : 3 x 12mm = 36mm
Grill : 2 x 1mm = 2mm (i don't know remember the numbers so i am guessing here)
Total : 300.4
Even with 1mm i am thinking that if i use screws and tighten the speaker with the grill a bit then it should fit. When tighten i am guessing the sealing gasket from the speaker should be pressed together and give me what i need. If not i can do what you suggest.
Well, the datasheet is wrong, so there's your problem.
The grills are made of 20mil or 0.51mm steel, btw.
Try stacking everything on top of eachother and measure the actual size instead of relying on the datasheet. As I said, there should be about 1.5-2mm gap on each side.
Well, the datasheet is wrong, so there's your problem.
The grills are made of 20mil or 0.51mm steel, btw.
Try stacking everything on top of eachother and measure the actual size instead of relying on the datasheet. As I said, there should be about 1.5-2mm gap on each side.
It is important for me to know this since i need to put the sealing gasket between the grill and the plywood and if i don't i will have an issue after i have glued the speakers to the plywood coz it won't touch the centerbrace.
If i remember correctly i actually measured it and that's when i got 300.9 in total but i might be measuring wrong.
Is this the "correct" or recommended order ?
1. Make all parts (centerbrace, ports, speaker holes).
2. Mount the speakers/grill/sealing gasket to the plywood by glueing and/or mounting with screws (seal speakers with sillicone)
3. Mount ports on each side. (screws and glue)
4. Mount centerbrace. (screws and glue to port handle and the electronics compartment)
5. Mount electronics compartment (the two plywood parts)
6. Now mount front and back where speakers are already mounted and hope that that i have placed the holes for the speakers correct so the magnet will be alligned correctly on the center brace.
7. While doing 6 glue magnets to centerbrace.
I was thinking to seal all closing betwen plywood to plywood with sillicone to make sure it is airtight. Is that ok ?
Is this correct, please correct if i am wrong or doing in the wrong order ?
More or less correct but it will be impossible to mount the electronics compartment walls after the centerbrace, so you'll need to revise steps 3. to 5. and do it in reverse order.
What you do is screw the electronic compartment walls to the centerbrace, then mount those two assembled part. And after that add the ends with ports already attached.
Or you can assemble the electronic compartment walls, centerbrace, and ends with ports together before mounting them on the bottom. Then attach the top.
EDIT: Btw, the reason it's impossible to mount the electronic compartment walls last is that you then can't drill holes and screw it to centerbrace.
What you do is screw the electronic compartment walls to the centerbrace, then mount those two assembled part. And after that add the ends with ports already attached.
Or you can assemble the electronic compartment walls, centerbrace, and ends with ports together before mounting them on the bottom. Then attach the top.
EDIT: Btw, the reason it's impossible to mount the electronic compartment walls last is that you then can't drill holes and screw it to centerbrace.
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Well yes but i thought this would be easier because i want to make sure that i make the speaker compartment correct size. Why is it hard to mount something to the centerbrace when the otherside is not mounted ?
You mean you want to make sure the electronic compartment is the right size, right? A mm or two off on the speaker compartment will not make a huge difference as it's only 0,072864 liter per mm. It's also the reason I recommen having a spacing cut that you mount in the middle of the top and bottom, so that you're sure the electronic compartment it the exact width you need. you can just screw them in without glue and remove them before you put the sides on.
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What i mean is i don't know exactly where to set the electronics compartment. If i have the centerbrace i have something that i can use to rely on. I guess the first part of the electronics compartment is easy to mount to the centerbrace if the other part is not mounted but as soon as the other part needs to be mounted it is going to be hard i guess. Hmm can't figure out how to do this and not mess it up at the same time.
When you say ends then you mean the port handles ? Let me try to repeat or rephrase what i think my problem is. If i take the bottom plywood and then mount the left handle/port then mount the centerbrace to that i then know where the left part of the electronics has to go because it has to be mounted directly to the centerbrace. I can do the same for the right side but now i only have very few space to screw the right side of the elctronics compartment because the left side is in the way. Does this makes sense ? Am i fooling myself here ?
Yes now i understand. I could actually mount both the handle/port, centerbrace and one of the sides for the electronics compartment as well. That would also work.
Last time I assembled the center brace to the port/handle part I noticed that there was a rattling sound after my glue had dried. The 2 pieces glued together orthogonally was slightly able to wiggle back and forth, thus making this rattling sound.
I discovered that it was the glue which was not sticking good enough to the blank surface of the plywood (where the film is). My glue is just ordinary wood glue from my hardware store nearby.
Actually it was so annoying that I discarded the centerbrace and just went with a clean cabinet instead, because I had no luck fixing it. Next time I'm gonna do something about it. Question is, do I need some other glue for this purpose? Like epoxy? Saturnus, you've mentioned you use it for the wood part, but you also recommended us not to use it if I remember correctly.
.. Or maybe I just need to sand the surface a bit?
I discovered that it was the glue which was not sticking good enough to the blank surface of the plywood (where the film is). My glue is just ordinary wood glue from my hardware store nearby.
Actually it was so annoying that I discarded the centerbrace and just went with a clean cabinet instead, because I had no luck fixing it. Next time I'm gonna do something about it. Question is, do I need some other glue for this purpose? Like epoxy? Saturnus, you've mentioned you use it for the wood part, but you also recommended us not to use it if I remember correctly.
.. Or maybe I just need to sand the surface a bit?