300W should be fine, there was a graph posted before in this thread showing different power levels with different voltages, but you should get at least 45W. I didn't skin the caps in my gainclone, because it sits tighter in 7/8" hole in the white mounting block I'm using, but people report better sound when skinned. I suspect it may be more open sounding, since nothing compresses the cap anymore
.
.
Peter Daniel said:I suspect it may be more open sounding, since nothing compresses the cap anymore
Let's get physical.
Physical.
I wanna get physical.
Let's get metaphysical.
Let me hear your karma talk.
Karma talk.
Let me hear your karma talk.
I wanna to get physical.
Physical.
I wanna get physical.
Let's get metaphysical.
se
Steve Eddy said:
Let's get physical.
Physical.
I wanna get physical.
Let's get metaphysical.
Let me hear your karma talk.
Karma talk.
Let me hear your karma talk.
I wanna to get physical.
Physical.
I wanna get physical.
Let's get metaphysical.
se
hahaha!!!
exactly what i wanted to say (or sing)!!!
nania said:
I used one medium size motorcycle battery and one 4,2ah. I played the amp a 2-3 hours at least and I left it on two nights.However note that my system only needs a 4-5 watts for average listening volumes. The 4,2ah bat dropped about .4-.5V over this time.No perceived worsening of dynamics over time.
“reality check”
There’s a small book full of different great technical ideas here.
Sure they’re great bang for buck/ euro/
- how many?
Reason to ask:
To build about 6-7 speakers (sure it’s too much) over the next year or two (+/- 10%) – *all active*: inc.
- a PHL/ Neo3 bookshelf,
- two three-ways (one a PHL/ ribbon version of SL Phoenix),
- an Usher bookshelf,
- a couple of active subs,
Need a lot of (not too costly) amps!
Will start with one each, based on:
ST 4048-X1
LM 3886
TDA 7293/4
Before I dream too much, would costs have yours run to?
IC costs – easy to find . . .
But can we have some posts
**Complete * cost* (+/- 10%) 2 channels,
including power supply??
There’s a small book full of different great technical ideas here.
Sure they’re great bang for buck/ euro/
- how many?
Reason to ask:
To build about 6-7 speakers (sure it’s too much) over the next year or two (+/- 10%) – *all active*: inc.
- a PHL/ Neo3 bookshelf,
- two three-ways (one a PHL/ ribbon version of SL Phoenix),
- an Usher bookshelf,
- a couple of active subs,
Need a lot of (not too costly) amps!
Will start with one each, based on:
ST 4048-X1
LM 3886
TDA 7293/4
Before I dream too much, would costs have yours run to?
IC costs – easy to find . . .
But can we have some posts
**Complete * cost* (+/- 10%) 2 channels,
including power supply??
rick,
what makes you think there is less dynamics and transient in the mids compared to the lows?
The way I understand it (have not tried myself yet though) it´s in the bass that batteies really makes amps shine. A yellow top/red top can leave 800 amps or so, try that with an AC PS hooked up into your AC outlet
Thorsten talked about gainclones on car battereis as "krell killers".
As long as the batteries are big/many enough (low dynamic impedance/resistance) they should eat any AC PS unless it´s a tru balanced class A solution.
AC always has dynamic problems unless it´s class A balanced. Low impedance trafos, bridges and big banks of caps minimize the problem but balanced class A or car batteries is the way to go for the hard core audopphile
Gonna buy me some (4) Optima yellow/red tops soon to try out.
/Peter
what makes you think there is less dynamics and transient in the mids compared to the lows?
The way I understand it (have not tried myself yet though) it´s in the bass that batteies really makes amps shine. A yellow top/red top can leave 800 amps or so, try that with an AC PS hooked up into your AC outlet
Thorsten talked about gainclones on car battereis as "krell killers".
As long as the batteries are big/many enough (low dynamic impedance/resistance) they should eat any AC PS unless it´s a tru balanced class A solution.
AC always has dynamic problems unless it´s class A balanced. Low impedance trafos, bridges and big banks of caps minimize the problem but balanced class A or car batteries is the way to go for the hard core audopphile
Gonna buy me some (4) Optima yellow/red tops soon to try out.
/Peter
It is interesting that the car audio folks use huge capacitors between the batterys and amps. I have heard that batteries are not able to chemically produce power as fast as caps can release it. I don't think this is just because of long wire runs in a car. Some car people have the amps right next to the batterys. I think we would be missing an opportunity if we didn't try using banks of caps also. The mindset of those working with gainclones is to limit any additional components, so we should be careful not to assume that adding caps is bad. I have also heard that some types of batterys produce noise as they produce electricity (this might explain why battery commercial designs spec certain types of battery). Because of this a snubber between the terminals might be a good idea.
Variac said:
You're missing one important distinction here. Car audio amplifiers aren't directly powered by the battery. They use switchmode power supplies which draw current in pulses and operate at very high frequencies, typically between 50 kHz and 100 kHz. Because of this, even small amounts of inductance in the supply leads can be quite significant.
It's just a low level, wideband random noise, akin to thermal noise. It's insignificant and a snubber will do nothing about it.
se
batteries as "krell killers"?
The suggestion about the relative degree of dynamics & transients in the mids compared to the lows, was not in the music, but in the load requirement on the amp.
It’s a quick speculative theory, for comment
car batteries as "krell killers"? I have to hear/ try that?!
Shoot me down if it’s wrong . . .
The suggestion about the relative degree of dynamics & transients in the mids compared to the lows, was not in the music, but in the load requirement on the amp.
It’s a quick speculative theory, for comment
car batteries as "krell killers"? I have to hear/ try that?!
Shoot me down if it’s wrong . . .
the sonic chain - affect on the bank
ok they're a bargain, but can we *quantify* this -
can we please have some posts
Complete cost (without adding eg the solder - within 10%) for the 2 channels,
(excluding aesthetic eg case) but everything thing in the sonic chain, including power supply??
ok they're a bargain, but can we *quantify* this -
can we please have some posts
Complete cost (without adding eg the solder - within 10%) for the 2 channels,
(excluding aesthetic eg case) but everything thing in the sonic chain, including power supply??
Well it all depends on the build quality. If you use an old amplifier to build the clone you save yourself a case and maybe even a transformer! If you use cheapo components you could build one under 50 euro.
If you want to make a super duper clone with lots and lots Black Gates, nice resistors, pots, connectors etc. you'll have to pay more (250-400 euro !?) And maybe even more if you want to make Peter jealous of your case (good luck!)
Fedde
If you want to make a super duper clone with lots and lots Black Gates, nice resistors, pots, connectors etc. you'll have to pay more (250-400 euro !?) And maybe even more if you want to make Peter jealous of your case
(good luck!)Fedde
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.