I have long wanted to build a system out of battery power supply, because it's fun, also no risk of electric shocks, with lots of ready assembled circuit board and great quality caps and resistors for tuning of sound.
So I bought a pair of TDA 2050 amp boards, and a usb wire with built in 5v to 12 v dc to dc.
When i connected them initially i wonder how bad the quality of the sound. But it turned out to be ok though no much resolution and dynamics. And loud enough to drive my small pair of Boston acoustic A23 speakers.
I hv changed some of the caps and resistors to make the sound to be quite nice.
I hv been more on diy esp with the minutes bt speakers just to learn to work with surface mount devices. I don't know how far I am from the current hifi, but if i were to get the most up to date system, it may not be fun as a lot of my preferences were still from 1960-90s as i am in my mid 60s
So I bought a pair of TDA 2050 amp boards, and a usb wire with built in 5v to 12 v dc to dc.
When i connected them initially i wonder how bad the quality of the sound. But it turned out to be ok though no much resolution and dynamics. And loud enough to drive my small pair of Boston acoustic A23 speakers.
I hv changed some of the caps and resistors to make the sound to be quite nice.
I hv been more on diy esp with the minutes bt speakers just to learn to work with surface mount devices. I don't know how far I am from the current hifi, but if i were to get the most up to date system, it may not be fun as a lot of my preferences were still from 1960-90s as i am in my mid 60s
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12-24V TDA2050 Mono Channel CH Audio Power Amplifier AMP Board Module 5W-120W K | eBay hash=item3db272d623:g:S64AAOSwqqdf4xDq No single supply.
Tda 2050 kit, single ps
Yeah I know from the spec it will be marginal at a single supply of 12 V. I hv seen +/- 9v - 12v inside some of the powered speakers for tda 2030. But i hv wanted to drive the chip amp with 12-15v for at least 5 to 10 years. I hv even bought both TDA 2030 and TDA 2050 some from Rs when they were still using that names. I might hv 20 - 25 of them. But what the hack, the China made kits are so cheap with good size heat sink.
Yes, the circuit works with 12V if single pole supply, also it's entirely in class B. The current it draw, i can monitor easily using a usb meters, were mostly 7 to 8 ma, at decent volume for watching TV series, the current went to only 13 to 15 ma, with nice sound.
The input stage used 2 of 22k resistors to get a mid voltage as the ref for the input stage. Some how capacitor coupled input and output stages cud made good sound, i suspected. As there is a model of vintage marantz, that has caps on both ends that users love..
Well if you hv 2030 types, try them on 12V single polar ps
Yeah I know from the spec it will be marginal at a single supply of 12 V. I hv seen +/- 9v - 12v inside some of the powered speakers for tda 2030. But i hv wanted to drive the chip amp with 12-15v for at least 5 to 10 years. I hv even bought both TDA 2030 and TDA 2050 some from Rs when they were still using that names. I might hv 20 - 25 of them. But what the hack, the China made kits are so cheap with good size heat sink.
Yes, the circuit works with 12V if single pole supply, also it's entirely in class B. The current it draw, i can monitor easily using a usb meters, were mostly 7 to 8 ma, at decent volume for watching TV series, the current went to only 13 to 15 ma, with nice sound.
The input stage used 2 of 22k resistors to get a mid voltage as the ref for the input stage. Some how capacitor coupled input and output stages cud made good sound, i suspected. As there is a model of vintage marantz, that has caps on both ends that users love..
Well if you hv 2030 types, try them on 12V single polar ps
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Congratulations on getting into this new Hobby, you´ll love it.
TDA2050 are not really suitable for 12V supplies,they are struggling at such low voltages.
IF you get a "real" power supply, say 24V to 36V instead of upvolting cellphone battery banks you´ll get much better results.
Don´t go into that road,sound depends on design, not on magic parts.
Doubly so in a very generic product such as that one.
Parts need to be competent, period, and builders will fit that.
Only clearly fake part is TDA2050, no longer available anywhere for many years, and definitely not ST made.
But the lookalike they fit must be usable enough, at least under the reduced expectations around that board.
As of supply: the board LOOKS like a dual supply one,specially because of the dual 1000uF x 35V caps, but the bottom one is across the single +V rail, and the top one is actually the speaker coupling capacitor, go figure.
Power out must be quite low, a couple Watts, but still light years better than the crummy single transistor full DC on speaker "amp" being discussed in another thread.
Congratulations again, suggest your next project is getting a real power supply, even a discarded +19V laptop power brick will be a huge improvement but of course, 24 to 36V even much better.
Not higher because the fake TDA2050 chip won´t take it.
Old hobby new twist
Yes I suspected the 2050 must be a fake, but it sounded so good. The 2 bigger caps are one for the output coupling, the other one for the single pole ps.
I wanted to try up to 16V, as at 15v the smd film caps stared to leak a bit. But since I hv these handy 12v dc to dc, with great current limiter, so i didn't bother. I also hv 12V Lithium battery packs, slightly fuller sound as it has lower internal resistance, but who knows when the "fake" ( most likely) will fail..
May be I will find the real 2030 and 2050 to compare.
As it is a very simple project, i am more focus on being able to drive at 12v, and loud enough volume for the sound, with impressive imaging and details.
I have replaced the resistors with vishay thin film, and capacitors also with film caps. Those parts cud be more expensive then the kits.
Yes I suspected the 2050 must be a fake, but it sounded so good. The 2 bigger caps are one for the output coupling, the other one for the single pole ps.
I wanted to try up to 16V, as at 15v the smd film caps stared to leak a bit. But since I hv these handy 12v dc to dc, with great current limiter, so i didn't bother. I also hv 12V Lithium battery packs, slightly fuller sound as it has lower internal resistance, but who knows when the "fake" ( most likely) will fail..
May be I will find the real 2030 and 2050 to compare.
As it is a very simple project, i am more focus on being able to drive at 12v, and loud enough volume for the sound, with impressive imaging and details.
I have replaced the resistors with vishay thin film, and capacitors also with film caps. Those parts cud be more expensive then the kits.
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The OP is a member of this forum for more than 15 years , indeed a new hobby.
The tda2030/2050 are not designed for 12-15v single power supply. Tda2003 is , maybe you want to take a look there.
You cannot draw the necessary dc for your amp from a computer USB port . But you can use an usb bank , designed for heavier loads .
A laptop brick would be better, as the voltage is lower BUT more amps than power bank.
Lower voltage safer with fake chips.
Even fake 2003 are hard to find.
2005 / 3316D2 / 7297 are easily available here as assembled boards.
And yes, those can run off an old desktop SMPS as well.
Or put the kit inside, powerful amp, with huge storage!
Possibilities are limited by your imagination only....
Lower voltage safer with fake chips.
Even fake 2003 are hard to find.
2005 / 3316D2 / 7297 are easily available here as assembled boards.
And yes, those can run off an old desktop SMPS as well.
Or put the kit inside, powerful amp, with huge storage!
Possibilities are limited by your imagination only....
Careful in putting 2 switching mode ps in series, as their output may not be truly isolated to the AC supply.
I hv ample power supply up to 48V. But as I wrote, I just did it exactly with 12 V in mind. The 12v is from 5v, converted thru dc to dc.
Next may be I will try them as headphones amplifier, at lower gain and perhaps 5 - 10 ohm in serial at the outputs
I hv ample power supply up to 48V. But as I wrote, I just did it exactly with 12 V in mind. The 12v is from 5v, converted thru dc to dc.
Next may be I will try them as headphones amplifier, at lower gain and perhaps 5 - 10 ohm in serial at the outputs
Firstly if you place PSUs in series you should use bypassing diodes across them both otherwise when one overloads/cuts-out the other could drive it in reverse and blow it up. The same might happen at startup if they aren't identical in ramping up.
Secondly there are many caveats about doing this - best to find out from the manufacturer if they recommend/support series connection like this (rather than the more normal +/- supplies both returning to ground)
Tks every one for kind advise. Hifi is a habit difficult to forget, though today is the age of smart phone and social media. But i think recorded music is a purer way to enjoy. I watch tv series with my hifi, but quite tired. Watching YouTube is even more tired. But i cud enjoy sleep listening to music especially those from the 60s. Like Andy Williams, Sinatra, and mantovani. I guess most younger people hardly heard them.