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Super Gainclone With Klever Klipper Based on Cordell Design
Super Gainclone With Klever Klipper Based on Cordell Design
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Old 30th April 2018, 04:42 PM   #21
tomchr is offline tomchr  Canada
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I considered suggesting turning the clipper into a subsection as well. In fact, you could make a layout for just the clipper and connect it to one of the known good LM3886 boards (or even my Modulus-86 if you'd like to up the performance).

A line-level circuit is a much better candidate for a first "hello world" layout.

Tom
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MOD686: Up to 240W/8Ω, <0.00025% THD. MOD86: 40W/8Ω, 0.000054% THD. HP-1: 3W/20Ω, -130dBc THD, 128dB DNR.
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Old 30th April 2018, 04:43 PM   #22
tomchr is offline tomchr  Canada
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+1 for scrapping the DC servo, by the way.

Tom
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MOD686: Up to 240W/8Ω, <0.00025% THD. MOD86: 40W/8Ω, 0.000054% THD. HP-1: 3W/20Ω, -130dBc THD, 128dB DNR.
Neurochrome : : Audio - www.neurochrome.com - Engineering : : Done : : Right
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Old 30th April 2018, 05:31 PM   #23
mexmike is offline mexmike  Mexico
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Many thanks to all for the great input.
Clearly I've got a long way to go!


Just one point Tom. The data sheet states "AM Mute Attenuation Pin 8 Open or at 0V, Mute: On
Current out of Pin 8 > 0.5 mA, 115 80 dB (min)
Mute: Off"


Am I missing something here?


Cheers once again.
Mike
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Old 30th April 2018, 10:54 PM   #24
tomchr is offline tomchr  Canada
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Nope. You're right. I mis-remembered the mute pin configuration. My bad.

What you have for the mute pin matches Figure 1 in the data sheet. You still don't need C24, but you can let the mute input float when you want the chip muted.

Tom
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MOD686: Up to 240W/8Ω, <0.00025% THD. MOD86: 40W/8Ω, 0.000054% THD. HP-1: 3W/20Ω, -130dBc THD, 128dB DNR.
Neurochrome : : Audio - www.neurochrome.com - Engineering : : Done : : Right
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Old 1st May 2018, 03:44 AM   #25
mexmike is offline mexmike  Mexico
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Thanks for that Tom, et al,


I've already purchased a couple of basic vanilla LM3886's in parallel Mono boards and power supplies (transformer on the way) to cobble something together for 4 ohms, that should already hopefully work and I'll have some music again.


The reason for the SGC with Buffer ,Servo, Klipper and all kinds of perhaps over the top bits and Bob's (get the pun) is pure self indulgence. The enjoyment will be the same if I fail or succeed! Well almost. If I fail, all the stray cats will disappear and the Salsa class right across the road from my house will get some payback on Sunday mornings!


I once took my Fender Champ apart, copied the single sided board into Protel99, etched a board, bought a reverb, Got all the metal corners, jewels, Fabric, wood and blah blah! Took months and months but at the end it worked. I didn't design it but it was my baby and I had a great time doing it. I tried the famous AX84 hi octane (tubes from a great guy at Sovtek). Boy did that oscillate and it was so much fun trying not to electrocute myself. I never did get it work at high volume and almost died trying ha ha ha!!!


Maybe you can see where I'm coming from, you know "Its the journey etc"
Back on point, I really like the double sided board with copper on one side and countersunk holes! No problem with silk screen alignment. Very interesting article! I may give that a bash to try follow your entire train of vey kind advice!


Take care,


Mike
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Old 1st May 2018, 04:24 PM   #26
tomchr is offline tomchr  Canada
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If you're into making your own PCBs, I suggest looking into toner transfer. I bought a cheap laminator and some brochure paper, which I use in my "garage fab". With some practice I'm able to get down to about 0.25 mm registration error between the top and bottom layers, which is good enough for a basic two-layer board.

Here's a good writeup on the method: Creating PCBs with the toner transfer method

Tom
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MOD686: Up to 240W/8Ω, <0.00025% THD. MOD86: 40W/8Ω, 0.000054% THD. HP-1: 3W/20Ω, -130dBc THD, 128dB DNR.
Neurochrome : : Audio - www.neurochrome.com - Engineering : : Done : : Right
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Old 1st May 2018, 04:35 PM   #27
00940 is online now 00940  Belgium
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Another option for smallish boards is to use the classic UV method, using a nail paint UV lamp. Those are dirt cheap on ebay and it works quite well. It might require a bit of trial and error the first time to find the correct exposure time given your materials and setup but then it's very repeatable, without any trouble up to tssop pitch. See here for more details.

Dual sided can work but honestly... I've come to appreciate having true plated through holes boards. Main problem wasn't the etching but the drilling. 0.8mm bits are awfully fragile.
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Old 1st May 2018, 04:54 PM   #28
mexmike is offline mexmike  Mexico
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I'm fortunate, in as much as the cost of making a silkscreen in my town, is quite cheap, so I usually go down that route.
Tom, using the 2 sided board you discussed earlier and leaving copper all on one side makes that entire side the ground plane then?
I've also looked into the package sizes you mentioned and noticed that the 1uF input cap, if I were to use a EVO-120 is a wopping 16x25mm. Is that the usual size for this type of cap?


Thanks,


Mike
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Old 1st May 2018, 05:09 PM   #29
00940 is online now 00940  Belgium
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Regarding the cap size: yes it's quite usual. Still, you don't need an audiophile approved cap. A good mkp from a reliable brand will be smaller and good enough not to be the weakest link in any system.

A 1uF/63Vdc wima mkp2 is 11mm*7.2mm. A 1uF/100Vdc wima mkp4 is 7mm*26.5mm.

For myself, I'm not quite certain I can hear the difference with a MKT such as the wima mks2... 3.5mm*7.2mm for 1uF.
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Old 1st May 2018, 05:47 PM   #30
mexmike is offline mexmike  Mexico
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Thanks 00940,


I'll go for that instead.
Regards
Mike
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