Technics SUV4X runs cool!

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I once tried a blue led on one of my safety operation... stayed there a week... was much brighter than any other in the system.

What speakers do you prefer - though a V4X makes them all sound great....
ATM I am using the Technics Honeycomb disc ones SB-6 SB-X500 SB-X700
Enjoy B&W on them too... A surprise is the Sony XG900AV speakers...
 
Hi

I am using a pair if B&W Dm601S2's but also have a pair of later (cheaper) sony APM's with 3 drivers (floorstander) but my wife will only let me get them down from the loft occasionally.

Do you think I would have done some permanent damage to the amp by plugging in the ribbon cable the wrong way? I switched it off with in seconds of the relay clicking on and off (two or three times max) which is what the blinking safety operation light would have been doing! I suppose the higher voltage blew the safety operation led

I turned it on again this morning and it was quiet for a few second but came back to normal.


Will check it out again when I get home from work. Really quite annoyed with myself for making such a dumb mistake. Any "health checks" I can do to assess any potential damage?

Best Wishes
 
The fact it's still working is very good.... the icq controller and led drive array has survived...

I'd check dc offset - have amp on for 10 mins - volume at 0 -no speakers connected, check for DC voltage at speaker outputs use 200mv dc mode on meter. (maybe adapt a small run of wire to lock into speaker terminals) if all is healthy you'd see less than 5mV (mine all range from 0mV to +/- 2mV. - bias is automatic in these sets (no adjustment)

Another thing to look at is the 2 Gold Caps 2.5V 3.3F (these are memory caps for the input selector) if these fail, it'll always revert to Tuner input
 
It may be a late run genuine... the fakes I come across just died on power up.

Looks like eBay is riddled with them....

I'd just leave it be for now.... maybe one may surface.

In the mean time I recommend you get familiar with desoldering braid (get decent stuff) it will stop train wrecks pulling chips and transistors
 
Hi. I have an suv2x and replaced the "New Class A" bulbs tonight without a hitch using a solder sucker and then brade. I only attempted to remove and solder in a component about 2 weeks ago for the first time - replaced a relay and was very proud of myself! I was quite scared to even have a go at first.

Thank you for your suppport and encouragement.
 
Sounds like you're like I am...

Here's a shot of some of my `85 lineup
 

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Hi

In my stash under the stairs I have an SUV7, SUV3, SUV505, SUV303, SUV4x, SUV2x, SU800, suv560, Rotel 930ax, Rotel 931ax, Rotel 921,JVC ax2, Harmon Kardon pm645vxi and a JVC ax220. So far I have only cleaned them up and adjusted bias with a dmm etc and have only recently started venturing into changing components.

You can appreciate why I am not allowed to buy anymore!. I have always loved this stuff since I was a teenager and use to read the brochures but could never afford them. Really not interested in new stuff!
 
SVI2004 just to thanks for your youtube video on desoldering. I sucessfully managed to change an AN7062 chip on my SUV4x. It was hard work removing an 18 pin chip but the soldering in of the new chip was fairly straight forward. DC down to 3-4 mv on both channels from a previous 18mv on the left and 7mv on the right.

The amp has been running for a few hours and nothing has gone bang so will continue to test over the weekend. I have come a long way from my car crash soldering efforts a few weeks ago as detailed in the above posts!.

Thanks again mate.
 
As the old saying goes "the path to repairing vintage electronics never runs smooth (if you are not a pro)".

After the euphoria of replacing the AN7062 chip sucessfully on Friday evening I watched Glastonbury on TV using the amp for the audio - all good. Next mornig switched it on and left channel distorted but recovers if you turn up the volume - must be a loose connection I thought. Had a look at the board and resoldered the AN7062 chip and then focussed on a particular transistor as if you poked the board the sound went off. To cut a long story short - after may hours of fiddling about it was a cold solder joint on the relay. I had twisted the board a bit removing the old AN7062 and the relay is quite large and inflexible.

Foolishly at the same time I decided to change the speaker terminals on a Rotel RA970BX which I had not done beofre (technics amps are easy now!) and it all went a bit wrong (another thread I suppose). I was exhausted by the end of it! I need a weekend off from tinkering I think!
 
Hi

Replaced the relay anyway as a precaution as I had a spare - OMRON equivalents available from RS Components in the UK for £2.40.

However I do have a very slight buzz on the right channel regardless of volume or input. It is very quiet but it is bugging me! (I really should quit while I am ahead but this is my "learning" amp).

Will give the board a clean in case of solder blobs and give components a wiggle to see if anything changes. Any other ideas?

Also - there is always lots of discussion regarding changing caps on old amps or not. What is your opinion SVI2004? The only caps I have changed on my SUV4x are the super capacitors which power the storage of the input selection as they no longer worked.

Thanks
 
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