Modulus-86 build thread

I just boxed up your order. Thank you very much for your support of my business and me.

I noticed that you were one set of binding posts short. There was only one pair (i.e., one red and one black post) on your order. I'm happy to ship your order that way, but since it looks like you're building a stereo amp, I thought I'd ask if you'd like me to add a second set. It's always more fun to get everything you need at once.

I've tossed you an email about that just moments ago.

Tom
 
I have been working on 2x 5CH Mod-86 Amps for my LX-521.4 speakers.
Tom helped arrive at a customized design for this speaker. Custom transformers from Toroidy.pl are used.
Heat sinks are from HEATSINKONLINE and chassis is Modushop Pesante.
As others have vouched before, Tom's support and guidance is exemplary.
Prompt responses and detailed guidance and willingness to discuss everything from electronics to suitable parts#, tools and mechanical design make it a pleasure to work with him on this project.
All modules were tested using lab supply and were functional on first power on. This again points to the reliability of the design and detailed instructions made available.

Posting some pictures of work in progress. Cabling and mechanical assembly are the next steps.
 

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@diyaudnut:

Can you describe how you affix the heat sink assemblies to the chassis? I see from one of the photos that the top edge of the HS have a area which can be threaded for a screw; I assume that is also on the bottom edge and that you have attached the HS to the baseplate using screws placed in appropriate holes drilled to the baseplate. Did you also drill and thread holes on the edge of the HS up against the back panel, so that the HS is also affixed to the back panel?

This structural aspect is of high interest to me.
 
Yeah the heat sinks have 3mm channels for screws. I use 3.5 mm thread forming screws to attach the heatsink bottom edge through the base plate. They are not attached to the back panel.
I had also planned to use a copper L-bar to connect the heatsinks to each other along the edge facing the power supplies and screw the L-bar to the base plate.
But not doing this at this point. I don't quite enjoy drilling holes in metal :)
 
Yeah the heat sinks have 3mm channels for screws. I use 3.5 mm thread forming screws to attach the heatsink bottom edge through the base plate. They are not attached to the back panel.
I had also planned to use a copper L-bar to connect the heatsinks to each other along the edge facing the power supplies and screw the L-bar to the base plate.
But not doing this at this point. I don't quite enjoy drilling holes in metal :)

Thank you for the information! Your base plate must be pretty thick to be able to take that much amount of stress. I completely understand the issue of aligning and drilling additional holes in the back panel; I'm also metal-working challenged!
 
Tom; would that be Moduli?:eek:

Possibly. Would more than one Toyota Prius be Priii? :)

Thank you for the information! Your base plate must be pretty thick to be able to take that much amount of stress.

The ModuShop chassis come in two options: 1 mm steel covers (which is hard on your tools, by the way) and 3 mm aluminum covers. I'm guessing this build is with the 3 mm aluminum covers. That's pretty stout stuff. Also, one can drill and tap holes into the bottom of the heat sinks so they can be attached to the chassis bottom for even greater rigidity.

I'm puzzled why many are so afraid of metalworking. I love working in metal. I can make cuts with great precision and cut threads. Even thin material is quite strong and it remains stable even with changes in humidity. Wood on the other hand is damn near impossible to machine with any degree of precision. It splits and splinters if you look at it funny and it bows and binds at any change in humidity. I have a solid wood standing desk where one drawer only opens during the winter. Apparently the 40% RH during the summer is just too much.

I taught myself metalworking when I was in my teens and haven't looked back.

Tom
 
The LM3886TF/NOPB is out of stock at both Mouser and Digikey. I thought I’d just wait it out, but Mouser sent me an email this morning where the estimated ship date is “Will Advise” and “ Production Issues Reported - Delivery Unknown” as a note.

Is this a normal and fine thing, or should I be trying to source the part elsewhere?

If elsewhere do people have suggestions for other suppliers that ship to the US?

Thanks,
Joe
 
Apparently the news of the worldwide semiconductor shortage (and electronic components, in general) hasn't reached Alaska. ;-) Demand has gone through the roof and all companies are hard put to keep up. Lead times of 52 weeks or more are being quoted for even common items like resistors. You might look for the non-insulated version and add appropriate insulators for mounting it. TI now directly sells ICs via TI.com, though I doubt that availability is any better. There are a few other distributors besides D-K and M, but you're chasing scarcity, just like you were doing with TP a year ago. I'd be careful with eBay as many of the far-east sellers are not selling the genuine article.
 
These ICs all have the same die inside and will work equally well in the Modulus-86:

LM3886T
LM3886TF
LM3886T/NOPB
LM3886TF/NOPB

The T suffix indicates a metal backed package. That will need a thermal pad and shoulder washer. I give some part numbers in the MOD86 design doc. You can also get the Keratherm Red (86/82) pads either from me or from the DIY Audio Store (unless you want to buy $1k worth from the distributor).

The TF suffix indicates an insulated (plastic) package. This package can be mounted to the heat sink with a thin coat of thermal goop in between. There's no need for thermal washers or shoulder washers with this package.

/NOPB indicates that the leads have lead-free solder on them. This is critical if you want the final product to be RoHS compatible so you can sell it within the EU. For DIYers it has no impact, which makes the regular and the /NOPB interchangeable.
I often find that the leaded LM3886TF is in stock with Mouser if the LM3886TF/NOPB is not, but thanks to the global crunch on components, they're now both out of stock.

I do have a small handful (10) of the LM3886TF on order with Mouser. It looks like they expect to have more by the end of August. I'll need two and am willing to part with the other eight once they arrive.
I also have a couple of tubes of LM3886T/NOPB. I'm willing to part with some of those. I'll need to keep enough on hand that I can keep building Modulus-186 and -286 until stock levels recover. I bought them all directly from TI.
I'm extending this offer only to those who bought the Modulus-86 or LM3886DR. Should you not be willing to wait for Mouser to get LM3886 in stock, you now know where to find them.

There are several other components on the MOD86 BOM that are currently out of stock. So far I've been able to find substitutes. Email me if you need help with this. Parts drift in/out of stock on a hourly basis.

Tom
 
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