Modulus-86 build thread

[billshurv]

My STSS is a lot older, but should do it. I spent years hunting a good deal on a metcal as I missed out on all the ones when they shut the nokia production line down. It covers up for my poor soldering skills (I used to work with satellites and the guys there really could solder. No second chances in space!).

Now lead or lead free solder... Martin Colloms is convinced lead free sounds worse...</windup>

[Richidoo]

Nothing more fun than slingin some hot solder on a cold winter's day!

My Power86 is done, the Mod-86s are 2/3s done.

Some ideas I thought of so far:
1. Add "C22 and C26" to the customer part number on the Mod-86 Mouser project list so it gets printed on the part envelope (0.1uF ceramic.)

2. Maybe put a project name or prefix in the cust part# to help with sorting the parts when different projects are ordered together in one big box.

3. The TDK caps' tolerance isn't great. C15, nominal 150pF, parts were actually 214pF. C10, nominal 100pF, parts 164pF. Other TDKs similar, but they are pretty!

[tomchr]

Originally Posted by Richidoo

1. Add "C22 and C26" to the customer part number on the Mod-86 Mouser project list so it gets printed on the part envelope (0.1uF ceramic.)

2. Maybe put a project name or prefix in the cust part# to help with sorting the parts when different projects are ordered together in one big box.

Sadly, Mouser limits the length of the customer part number field, so "C22, C26" won't fit... Most people seem to figure it out anyway. I may define a customer part number and maintain a BOM with component designators versus customer part numbers.

It would be cool with a project name on the bag as well. However Mouser limits the length of the field.

I have emailed them asking for alternate options. They don't have any at the moment, but will take my suggestions into consideration. I did ask about including the project name as well.

Originally Posted by Richidoo

3. The TDK caps' tolerance isn't great. C15, nominal 150pF, parts were actually 214pF. C10, nominal 100pF, parts 164pF. Other TDKs similar, but they are pretty!

You may want to check the calibration of your capacitance meter. Usually there's a knob that you need to turn to calibrate out the test lead capacitance when measuring small capacitances. The caps are ±5 % tolerance as I recall. TDK is a reliable manufacturer and I expect their parts to meet the published specs in the data sheet.

Nice work so far, though. It's fun to see my builders' boards come together.

~Tom

[billshurv]

Originally Posted by Richidoo

Nothing more fun than slingin some hot solder on a cold winter's day!

My Power86 is done, the Mod-86s are 2/3s done.

Doing well. I have not managed a single joint this week due to the day job getting in the way

[Richidoo]

Thanks Tom, as usual, you are "all over it." I figured out the parts by referring to your excellent documentation. I'll check my MM cal for adjustment pot, thanks.

Hang in there Bill, the weekend's coming! It builds pretty quickly.

[billshurv]

hmm. New ribbons arriving tomorrow as well as a recone kit for the sub. Could be tight

All Tom's fault of course :P

[tomchr]

Originally Posted by billshurv

Doing well. I have not managed a single joint this week due to the day job getting in the way

Just say no to work... (Yeah, doesn't work for me either). Work is a gateway drug, I swear...

Originally Posted by billshurv

All Tom's fault of course :P

Of course. How could it be any other way...

Thanks for posting your experiences. I really enjoy reading about your builds. If you have any suggestions on how to further improve the build experience, just shoot me an email.

~Tom

[Richidoo]

Almost finished the amps today. Last remaining step is soldering the 3886 after the box is built. Next up is the box, then IC cables.

The Modulus-86s took about 6 hours to build both boards. The Sympaticos went together in about half hour because much of it is SMD, presoldered to PCB.

[zman01]

Richidoo,

Looking good.

What have you selected for the box?

[Richidoo]

Originally Posted by zman01

Richidoo,

Looking good.

What have you selected for the box?

Thanks zman

I already have big heatsinks so I'll diy the box with wood and aluminum sheet to fit the heatsinks. Not designed it yet.

Eventually I'll need two boxes with 3ch amps in each one, for active crossover speakers. For now I'll make stereo amps to audition the amps with passive crossovers.