Is everything clear that Google translator can translate in this article?
DIY и Hi-Fi | Олег Привалов | Яндекс Дзен
DIY и Hi-Fi | Олег Привалов | Яндекс Дзен
It’s definitely clearer than the original one, yes. The by-pass 0.1uF film caps mentioned should be placed on both the large 10,000uF & the subsequent 220-330uF caps or just the 10,000uF caps?
I think you should really give the builder the option to put an input blocking cap (0.47-2.2uF) on the board and not make them attach it to their input RCAs. My other preferences are 1) using two full wave bridge rectifier sets so we don’t have to use a center-tapped transformer. At least here in the USA our options for toroidal transformer choice increases greatly if we’re allowed to use a dual secondary setup and 2) just design the board w/o it’s own PS (therefore you’d only need a DC input (+, G, - )) and the builder could choose their own favorite PS arrangement...it would also give a little more room for the input dc blocking cap and the use of bigger diameter electrolytics around the board (like for Silmic IIs which always have a big diameter than their counter-parts).
Like you I have not greatly warmed to Class D amps yet. Class A, AB or regular chipamps (AB I guess) still sound better to me and have a greater ability to be sound-tailored by the use of traditional thru-hole components. Don’t get me wrong about Class D, I have one from drMordor and it’s wonderfully neutral and non-fatiguing to listen to it but I love the warmth of my LM3886 amp a bit more.
Regards, Pete
yes. thanks you Astaro. i tried some chapters and it worked well from Russia to English
really nice done.
i agree to:
My other preferences are 1) using two full wave bridge rectifier sets so we don’t have to use a center-tapped transformer.
its really not easy to get a center taped transformer.
chris
1. The 0.1u bypass film caps must be placed as close to the consumer (tda7293) as possible.
2.Are you writing about the possibility of making such a power supply unit as in picture 1? And what is its superiority over picture 2 (just connect the two windings correctly)?
3. And of course, I will only be grateful if you translate the article well and correctly. You can post the translation of the article wherever you want!
2.Are you writing about the possibility of making such a power supply unit as in picture 1? And what is its superiority over picture 2 (just connect the two windings correctly)?
3. And of course, I will only be grateful if you translate the article well and correctly. You can post the translation of the article wherever you want!
Attachments
Ok, thanks
Yes, as in picture 1. There is nothing electronically superior about 1 vs 2. Many of us can’t find center tapped toroidals to use for projects that demand them. For instance, to power your two amp boards I needed to get a 300VA with 12+12 secondary outputs so, when connected correctly one gets ~24VAC (or 24BAC in Russian translation?) with a center tap line, so ~ +/- 34VDC with a center tap. Well a 300VA toroidal that has 12+12 secondaries is 12A. It’s huge and it’s really hard to find a smaller one with 12+12 secondaries that would be good to run the two 7293 boards with good power. Giving us a PS like #1 would let us use as smaller (and smaller amperage) toroidal. A lot of other designers have gone this direction.
I will read it over carefully before posting but it’s just cut-n-pasted from how Google Chrome translated it.
Regards,
Pete
