Hi Calpe,
I used a case from here https://www.modushop.biz/site/index.php?route=product/category&path=67 which is the same as the forum shop Chassis – diyAudio Store. Using standard posts I was able to mount the tone / volume control board midway up the front panel so that the controls came through central in the front panel. After careful measurment which you should have done from the bare boards you can create a drawing of the holes for both front and back panels. I then used this company to make the panels for me. See attached pictures for the final build.
Good luck Tony
I used a case from here https://www.modushop.biz/site/index.php?route=product/category&path=67 which is the same as the forum shop Chassis – diyAudio Store. Using standard posts I was able to mount the tone / volume control board midway up the front panel so that the controls came through central in the front panel. After careful measurment which you should have done from the bare boards you can create a drawing of the holes for both front and back panels. I then used this company to make the panels for me. See attached pictures for the final build.
Good luck Tony
Attachments
Hi Bigtone, sadly i was too enthusiastic and mounted all the components first.
I too have made up twin inputs pcb's, for stereo use.
I can see i have a huge problem on my hands now!
Can you please advise me what cable and connections you have used?
I see you have connected the two K17 sockets together.
What type of connector is it? Is it available from Farnell?
What type of connectors have you used on the Input PCB to connect to the Line i/p and o/p pins?
Very professional finish
Thanks
I too have made up twin inputs pcb's, for stereo use.
I can see i have a huge problem on my hands now!
Can you please advise me what cable and connections you have used?
I see you have connected the two K17 sockets together.
What type of connector is it? Is it available from Farnell?
What type of connectors have you used on the Input PCB to connect to the Line i/p and o/p pins?
Very professional finish
Thanks
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Hi Calpe,
Never mind, the next option is to print off the PCBs from the magazine and use them as a template, cut out with cardboard first and then adjust measurments as necessary, I used a program free from the internet to draw out the panels from here Schaeffer AG: Home
Then you can either send them your panels or they will cut them for you to your design and they are not too expensive, but offer an excellent service.
The cables you see in the picture are from Ebay, they are simply audio CD connector leads for computers, they come with the connectors already fitted and are really cheap.
Indeed the two K17 are connected together with a stand pith header socket and standard ribbon cable which I did aquire from Farnell, I will see if I still have the part numbers.
Again the connectors on the input are just Computer links available from Ebay!
Good Luck
Cheers
Tony
Never mind, the next option is to print off the PCBs from the magazine and use them as a template, cut out with cardboard first and then adjust measurments as necessary, I used a program free from the internet to draw out the panels from here Schaeffer AG: Home
Then you can either send them your panels or they will cut them for you to your design and they are not too expensive, but offer an excellent service.
The cables you see in the picture are from Ebay, they are simply audio CD connector leads for computers, they come with the connectors already fitted and are really cheap.
Indeed the two K17 are connected together with a stand pith header socket and standard ribbon cable which I did aquire from Farnell, I will see if I still have the part numbers.
Again the connectors on the input are just Computer links available from Ebay!
Good Luck
Cheers
Tony
Hello Bigtone, many thanks for your help with this, it's driving me around the bend, so much information lacking in the Elektor article!
I'll check out the web site you've sent, though posting metal plates will be costly from where i am and then getting H.M.Customs clearance too as it'll be an export!
I've emailed Elektor requesting information of the connectors & cables and for a Farnell code no.
Again there was no information on the K17, again i'm waiting on Elektor on this.
Cheers for your help.
Vincent
I'll check out the web site you've sent, though posting metal plates will be costly from where i am and then getting H.M.Customs clearance too as it'll be an export!
I've emailed Elektor requesting information of the connectors & cables and for a Farnell code no.
Again there was no information on the K17, again i'm waiting on Elektor on this.
Cheers for your help.
Vincent
Today is my lucky day. I am building this preamp right now.
I have the power supply built. I have most of the line/tone board stuffed. The only parts I don't have are the 1k pots. I am holding off until next month because of cost. I also have not bought any parts for the rest of the preamp.
I am particularly interested in four 1K pots if you still have them.
I will send you a PM.
I have the power supply built. I have most of the line/tone board stuffed. The only parts I don't have are the 1k pots. I am holding off until next month because of cost. I also have not bought any parts for the rest of the preamp.
I am particularly interested in four 1K pots if you still have them.
I will send you a PM.
hi dennismiller55.
I hope i can help you.
The pots i purchased from Farnell, their price was £14.86 each.
14920F0GJSX13102KA - VISHAY - Rotary Potentiometer, Cermet, 1 kohm, 1 W, ± 10%, 149 Series, 1 Turns, Linear | Farnell element14
I hope i can help you.
The pots i purchased from Farnell, their price was £14.86 each.
14920F0GJSX13102KA - VISHAY - Rotary Potentiometer, Cermet, 1 kohm, 1 W, ± 10%, 149 Series, 1 Turns, Linear | Farnell element14
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Since muskyhuntr mentioned Bolero, here is some information that may be of interest.
Anne Adams painted Bolero!
This podcast Unraveling Bolero - Radiolab on NPR goes into the details.
The Podcast is based on the the paper that appeared in 'Brain' volume 131
https://academic.oup.com/brain/arti...velling-Bolero-progressive-aphasia-transmodal
Anne Adams painted Bolero!
This podcast Unraveling Bolero - Radiolab on NPR goes into the details.
The Podcast is based on the the paper that appeared in 'Brain' volume 131
https://academic.oup.com/brain/arti...velling-Bolero-progressive-aphasia-transmodal
dennismiller55, i am not in a great hurry, but i have had requests for components for this Preamplifier 2012, and as you were the first to ask...
I did however send you a P.M.
For those building this Preamplifier need to be aware of the latest versions of the i.c.'s have lower working voltages:-
Use NE5532AP (Farnell 1106091 or Mouser 595-NE5532AP or RS Components
436-3046)
Recommended supply voltage of the NE5532AP is however +/-15V (absolute
maximum is still +/- 22V). The design uses a supply voltage of +/-17 V
which is most probably alright. The original 5532 from decades ago had
a recommended operating supply voltage of +/- 18 V!
If you want to play it save reduce R2 and R4 in the power supply from
1.3 kΩ to 1.1 kΩ. The power supply voltage will thus be reduced
from +/-17 V to +/-15 V. The lower supply voltage will not be a
problem for standard signal levels.
Use NE5532AP (Farnell 1106091 or Mouser 595-NE5532AP or RS Components
436-3046)
Recommended supply voltage of the NE5532AP is however +/-15V (absolute
maximum is still +/- 22V). The design uses a supply voltage of +/-17 V
which is most probably alright. The original 5532 from decades ago had
a recommended operating supply voltage of +/- 18 V!
If you want to play it save reduce R2 and R4 in the power supply from
1.3 kΩ to 1.1 kΩ. The power supply voltage will thus be reduced
from +/-17 V to +/-15 V. The lower supply voltage will not be a
problem for standard signal levels.
Point to a specific mfgs datasheet where you read this?
absolute maximum has always been +/- 22V for all mfgs, even the original Signetic parts, I have the datasheets. Everyone followed this standard.
Recommended supply voltage of the NE5532AP is however +/-15V, does not mean that it will not be okay for +/-17 V, it is only a recommendation.
"If you want to play it safe"
It is only your opinion. +/- 17V leaves enough margins to be safe and reliable. Doug Self knows what he is doing to make a reliable design. The +/-17V gives a bit more headroom, usually for the phono section only (clicks/pops). As for line level signals, +/-17V can be scaled down to +/-15V.
Yeah, ive also got the datasheets.
But Post 32, was a reply from Elektor themselves, after i questioned them, so i'm playing it safe (once my Q-Watt is finished) and changing the values of the resistors to drop the voltage.
Not my opinions but those from the Elektor technical guys!
The Elektor Preamplifier 2012 article having appeared back April, May & June 2012, so electronics being what they are in 2017 the current versions of the i.c.'s are different.
But Post 32, was a reply from Elektor themselves, after i questioned them, so i'm playing it safe (once my Q-Watt is finished) and changing the values of the resistors to drop the voltage.
Not my opinions but those from the Elektor technical guys!
The Elektor Preamplifier 2012 article having appeared back April, May & June 2012, so electronics being what they are in 2017 the current versions of the i.c.'s are different.
Kay, the first issue i.e. Pt1 appears here https://www.elektormagazine.com/magazine/elektor-201204
PCB's? I have some spare for sale and components too...
PCB's? I have some spare for sale and components too...
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As an designer, when someone comes out with a statement like this, I like to figure out if is true and where is the evidence to support this claim. I do not see it from the mfr's such as TI or Onsemi.
Point me to this evidence, maybe I missed it.
I see the TI datasheet is revised.
Changes from Revision C (September 2004) to Revision D.
No mention of change in performance.
I also see Onsemi offering the NE5532 in a SOW-16 package which I can only assume to be so its thermals match that of the DIP-8 package.
Coincidentally it matches the pin out of the obsolete NE5533.
I know they say that they characterize the parts at +/- 15V.
I'd also like to see where this information is
One datasheet statement that enforced the +/- 15V recommendation is
2. Output may be shorted to ground at VS = 15 V, Tamb = 25°C. Temperature and/or supply voltages must be limited to ensure dissipation rating is not exceeded.
If you put a 600 ohm R at the o/p then you can reduce the Pd in a direct short to ground fault.
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This quote was a direct reply from an enquiry sent to Elektor. Note, not my words!
Use NE5532AP (Farnell 1106091 or Mouser 595-NE5532AP or RS Components 436-3046). Recommended supply voltage of the NE5532AP is however +/-15V (absolute maximum is still +/- 22V). The design uses a supply voltage of +/-17 V which is most probably alright. The original 5532 from decades ago had a recommended operating supply voltage of +/- 18 V! If you want to play it save reduce R2 and R4 in the power supply from 1.3 kΩ to 1.1 kΩ. The power supply voltage will thus be reduced from +/-17 V to +/-15 V. The lower supply voltage will not be a problem for standard signal levels.[/QUOTE said:
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