This is what I'm using
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=1070335&stamp=1165013828
driven by bridged parallel lm3886s
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=1070335&stamp=1165013828
driven by bridged parallel lm3886s
Mission 753's
I loved these speakers when I used to sell Hi Fi. Managed to get the rosewood non-freedom's at half price a few years later as ex displays.
At the moment they are running on the plans published on Decibel dungeon. SMPS power supply and 4 lm3875's passively bi amping them, I have a Kookaburra preamp in the same case with seperate PSU. Source is a 24chip USB DDDAC.
Currently my plan is to dec-amp them with lm3886's and an active filter. Gradually gathering the parts.
I have made a measurement mic to help me design the active crossover...
I loved these speakers when I used to sell Hi Fi. Managed to get the rosewood non-freedom's at half price a few years later as ex displays.
At the moment they are running on the plans published on Decibel dungeon. SMPS power supply and 4 lm3875's passively bi amping them, I have a Kookaburra preamp in the same case with seperate PSU. Source is a 24chip USB DDDAC.
Currently my plan is to dec-amp them with lm3886's and an active filter. Gradually gathering the parts.
I have made a measurement mic to help me design the active crossover...
Beovox MC120.2 (cira: 1985)
- foam surround replaced with custom made byutal rubber version
Powered with LM3886:
- added 250khz passive Twin-T notch filter (kills PC switcher noise)
Source:
- X-FI SB0550, U7 SOIC socketed, LPF modified: 820pf NPO, replacing 680pf for lower HF gain
- Opamp(s): LT1115 or OPA627A, single to dual carrier, bypass: 4.7uf tant || with 100nf MLCC X7R, made with "scratch&sniff" proto board
- if dual package, then, LME49720 or OPA2134
- NE/SA5532 still kicks ***, however....
MC120.2:
http://www.beoworld.org/prod_details.asp?pid=645
- foam surround replaced with custom made byutal rubber version
Powered with LM3886:
- added 250khz passive Twin-T notch filter (kills PC switcher noise)
Source:
- X-FI SB0550, U7 SOIC socketed, LPF modified: 820pf NPO, replacing 680pf for lower HF gain
- Opamp(s): LT1115 or OPA627A, single to dual carrier, bypass: 4.7uf tant || with 100nf MLCC X7R, made with "scratch&sniff" proto board
- if dual package, then, LME49720 or OPA2134
- NE/SA5532 still kicks ***, however....
MC120.2:
http://www.beoworld.org/prod_details.asp?pid=645
Member
Joined 2003
I listen to my Mauro Penasa "My_Ref" rev. C through these:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=111691
Photo of the assembled but not finished product is on page 2. I will be painting these sometime this summer.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=111691
Photo of the assembled but not finished product is on page 2. I will be painting these sometime this summer.
Monitor Audio Silver 9i
Though these will eventually be replaced with a pair of the Amish 45/97, which is a Troels Gravesen design from:
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Amish_8545_9500.htm
I have all the components, but need to build the cabinets, unfortunately I have been distracted by my OPA627 buffer for my preamp and the fish tank lid I had to build to keep the girlfriend happy!
Though these will eventually be replaced with a pair of the Amish 45/97, which is a Troels Gravesen design from:
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Amish_8545_9500.htm
I have all the components, but need to build the cabinets, unfortunately I have been distracted by my OPA627 buffer for my preamp and the fish tank lid I had to build to keep the girlfriend happy!
My current lineup includes:
Magnepan SMG a/b running at a 4 ohm load - easily drives my 3886 to clipping at louder volume! Still sounds great. I love the sound of these ribbons.
Parts Express BR-1 with modded crossover...good stereo imaging (depending on placement)
An old pair of DCM CX-07 from the early 90's. Still sound quite good....but could use a new woofer - anybody got recommend a suitable replacement?
And last but not least a pair of Fostex FE103 back loaded horn design....Fostex recommended enclosure.
Wayne
Magnepan SMG a/b running at a 4 ohm load - easily drives my 3886 to clipping at louder volume! Still sounds great. I love the sound of these ribbons.
Parts Express BR-1 with modded crossover...good stereo imaging (depending on placement)
An old pair of DCM CX-07 from the early 90's. Still sound quite good....but could use a new woofer - anybody got recommend a suitable replacement?
And last but not least a pair of Fostex FE103 back loaded horn design....Fostex recommended enclosure.
Wayne
DIY! If you have $1000 to spend I cannot recommend Zaph's ZD5s enough, though I will admit for a lot less money you can come very close in terms of performance...
There are many excellent designs out there to fit everyones needs, I'd recommend asking over in the Loudspeaker forum.
Many people also really enjoy fullrangers with chipamps
If DIY isn't an option, I have used my GC with a pair of MA GR10s and it sounds lovely
There are many excellent designs out there to fit everyones needs, I'd recommend asking over in the Loudspeaker forum.
Many people also really enjoy fullrangers with chipamps
If DIY isn't an option, I have used my GC with a pair of MA GR10s and it sounds lovely
There is one thing that deters me from buying monitor audio loudspeakers, and the thing is that i've read about both people who loved them and people who hated them. This does not happen with tannoys or kef's. Stereophile has a good review of one of the iQ's, despite alien's perception of sound is ok i would also like to hear something from humans. What about JBL's?
I have some 7" and 8" wideband (almost full range) drivers. They're 4 ohms, done 1st order so they're more like 5 ohms (cheap inductor). They have a cap so small that its not even in the audio band, and that's directly across the terminals. Its for speed, via inductance compensation.
I also have some rather speedy 12" at 4 ohm woofers, also with the cheap inductor, so they're more like 5 ohms. They're done standard 2nd order, with the resulting cap boost filling a hole in their response quite nicely. Just one of them is about 98db on the first watt.
I tend to choose tweeters that are "the higher the louder" format, just because, if the FR chart goes like a slippery slide, hey!, at least there's no crazy peaks. Of course, this makes my wideband drivers have to play clear up to 4k. Its done via driver selection.
Generally, there's more than two loudspeakers in use; however, the main two channels play on classic hifi, except. . .
There's the most haywired preamplifier ever--a quad parallel arrangement with a baxandall. It can be switched on or off, depending on the type of music played.
The chipamps? Either LM1875's or TDA7294's, and sometimes both.
Well, that's my computer speakers and amps. There's something a bit larger in the workshop.
I also have some rather speedy 12" at 4 ohm woofers, also with the cheap inductor, so they're more like 5 ohms. They're done standard 2nd order, with the resulting cap boost filling a hole in their response quite nicely. Just one of them is about 98db on the first watt.
I tend to choose tweeters that are "the higher the louder" format, just because, if the FR chart goes like a slippery slide, hey!, at least there's no crazy peaks. Of course, this makes my wideband drivers have to play clear up to 4k. Its done via driver selection.
Generally, there's more than two loudspeakers in use; however, the main two channels play on classic hifi, except. . .
There's the most haywired preamplifier ever--a quad parallel arrangement with a baxandall. It can be switched on or off, depending on the type of music played.
The chipamps? Either LM1875's or TDA7294's, and sometimes both.
Well, that's my computer speakers and amps. There's something a bit larger in the workshop.
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