Hacking the Logitech Z5500

Hello,

So while shopping at my town's local thrift store for weird electronics like I typically do, I encountered a strange-looking device and bought it on the cheap. Turns out it's the control pod to a Logitech Z680 system (and in hindsight I should have looked for some speakers to go with it).

So now I have a Z680 control pod with no speakers to go with it. How difficult would it be to rig up an adapter to have it control a set of amplified speakers (so basically the opposite of creating a headless Z680 setup)? All I'm seeing in the thread so far is for headless speaker setups, while I'm looking for a speakerless head setup.

I'd imagine that the control pod is outputting signals for each channel, plus receiving power and maybe sending some other data (that's what it looks like from this pinout description here). The problem is that the preceding pinout doesn't mention anything about power, but would the colors correlate to the same (or similar) purposes in the Z680 and Z5500?

If all else fails, it sounds like these control pods are in short supply, so I guess I could sell it off.
 
Z-5300

I noticed there was some question on getting the Z-5300 working without the remote pod in this thread. I got it working (sort of), but had to bypass the pre-amp section to achieve it. Volume levels and crossover will need to be done at the source. My Asus motherboard does this properly.
 
Hello everyone.

I have recently been having some issues with my z5500 system and figured I would see if anyone here could offer up some advice to what may be causing my issue. Sometimes the system will start working perfectly on any input, and then randomly it starts to make a very loud popping noise out of the speakers. The popping noise will continue regardless if I turn the volume down or change input. Finally I lose all audio completely. Sometimes I can get the audio to return if I cycle through the inputs, but many times there will be no audio or the display will say 'Detecting...' even on inputs that aren't plugged in. Sometimes it will just shut off on and return to standby mode while this is all going on.

The PID on my set is R510. I would be willing to perform electrical tests and soldering to fix this issue if needed. I just don't know what to start.

Thanks in advance for any help offered up.
 
My sub keeps blowing fuses!

My z-550 sub recently started blowing fuses. Bought 6 blew them all. They were the same 4a/125 sloblow that it came with. I swapped pod units with my friends z5500. He confirmed my pod was still working on his Z-5500 and when I tried his pod I blew another fuse. I don't think I'm capable of repairs unless there's very explicit directions. Should I try to find some local repair shop? I'm in North bay SF bay area. Will satalite speakers sound good with a new subwoofer hooked up to a used receiver if I buy one on craigslist?
 
Hi, I have a Z-5500 R473 and it has weird problem with center channel. I use the analog connections (3 cables), and last week the center speaker stopped working.

I checked the connections and everything seems fine. If I connect headphones to the pod, I can hear the center channel, so the sound is getting to the pod.

Also, If I enable the test mode with the remote, I can hear the noise on the center speaker, so there is some kind of connection between the pod (the amplifier) and the speaker.

In fact, if I use a digital connection, sound comes from the center speaker. I've been thinking about opening the pod and trying to check solders. I want to think it must be easy to fix. I would appreciate any help about where to look on the pod pcd.

Thanks
 
Hello. I'm having problems as well, so let's add my post to the list.
I've had a Z-5500 speaker system on my computer for the last 8-9 years, and I've always loved it. A few weeks ago, it began acting up, and I'm wondering if anyone knows what might be the cause and/or what I could do to fix it. I love these speakers, and I'm not terribly thrilled with the newest version of Logitech's "top end" system, so I would really like to get this one working again.

While listening to some music, the front right speaker began to have static. It was random at first. A quick his for 1/2 a second every so often. I would power down the system (button on the control pod) and when I turned it back on, everything worked fine. After a day or two, this random static became much more frequent. While listening, I would have 5+ sounds in a minute. Shutting it down would stop it for a few more minutes, but then it would go right back to what it did before.

The next day, the static became longer. It would hiss for a good 2 seconds, then the entire system would stop making noise completely. The unit was still powered on, and there were no errors to be seen. The only way to get sound again was to click the switch on the subwoofer off then on, and this would clear whatever was causing the silence.

A friend of mine does audio support for the NFL. His company is responsible for making sure the coach to Quarter Back microphones always work. I asked him to take a look at the system, so he took the Amplifier (attached to the subwoofer) apart to look for any blown capacitors, chips or solder joints. He saw 1 possible "trouble" solder joint, which he repaired, and added a bit of solder to 2 other joints that, while functional, could give out at some point.

When I got back home, the system worked fine for about an hour, then Mute again. This time, there was no static prior to the silence. I guess that 1 faulty solder joint was to blame for that.

Anyway, now the system is completely unusable. It will only play for 30-40 seconds before going mute once more. I don't understand this, and would really like it to be fixed.

You can see a video of what's currently happening by clicking on the below link:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZS_mR4N_Nc


If anyone has an idea of what I could do to fix this problem, I'd love to hear it. I really really don't want to get rid of this system when it's perfect for everything I use it for.
 
Hey cliffdude,

Z-5450 15-pin Subwoofer to Control Pod connection
===============================
1 - N.C.
2 - Sub in (grey)
3 - N.C.
4 - Center in (green)
5 - Left Front in (yellow)
6 - Turn amps on (orange)
7 - Unmute left, right, subwoofer (blue)
8 - Unmute center (white)
9 - Right Front in (purple)
10 - +8V for Control Pod logic (thick red)
11 - Ground for Control Pod (thick green)
12 - Ground for Control Pod (thick blue)
13 - Overheat detect? (black)
14 - +12 V for Control Pod logic (thick brown)
15 - -12 V for Control Pod logic (thick black)
Shield - Blank wire

Pin 1 and 3 are not connected, because the Z-5450 has two wireless satellite speakers. For a wired speaker system these would be connected to red and brown.

A connection for the speakers to a 3,5 mm jack would look like this:
pin 5 <--- line out tip (audio for left speaker)
pin 6 <--- line out GND (unmute left, right, subwoofer)
pin 7 <--- line out GND (turns amp on)
pin 8 <--- line out GND (unmute center (optional))
pin 9 <--- line out ring (audio for right speaker)
pin 13 <--- line out GND (signal GND)

It would be nice to hear if you get yours working. Thanks!

1 -- thin brown wire = Rear right speaker
3 -- thin red wire = Rear left speaker

I spilt water on my control pod and save my Z5400 thanks to your post camouflageX :)
 
Almost Done....

I have a pid608 spring clip ver. I am using just the sub, no speakers.

I have +5v going to pin 7(white wire) that turns it on, i get a nasty tone outputted.

If i hook up my audio source (pins 2 and ground) i can hear it playing, but as soon as my input music stops the nasty tone is back.

Just wondering what to do to have no nasty tone when no audio is playing..

Help is appreciated.

PS is there any way of completely bypassing the preamp portion of the board and having the audio direct to the amp?


Thanks, Adam