@Toffmonster
I had the suspicion that something is wrong/different. Ok i soldered a cable to any pin of the d-sub 15pin connector and checked Voltage on every Pin. And so i found my "epic fail". Kind of embarrassing but...
perhaps someone commits the same mistake. So here it is...
I thought that the pic of knexkid show the female part of the connector i bought at my local dealer. The "O" in the Image seems to show holes for male pins and i only checked Pin 13 (ground). But now i have reversed my look on it. So that the "O"´s are Pins at the backside of the sub. And that changes everything. So checking the Voltage at the beginning
could have saved me some time...
I made a short test with front speakers and it worked... Now i have to start over and i am making a new cable and i am sure this will work much better... Hope you dont laugh to much
Ah ok i found it an the PID is "R805". So i am post-636.
I had the suspicion that something is wrong/different. Ok i soldered a cable to any pin of the d-sub 15pin connector and checked Voltage on every Pin. And so i found my "epic fail". Kind of embarrassing but...
perhaps someone commits the same mistake. So here it is...
I thought that the pic of knexkid show the female part of the connector i bought at my local dealer. The "O" in the Image seems to show holes for male pins and i only checked Pin 13 (ground). But now i have reversed my look on it. So that the "O"´s are Pins at the backside of the sub. And that changes everything. So checking the Voltage at the beginning
could have saved me some time...
I made a short test with front speakers and it worked... Now i have to start over and i am making a new cable and i am sure this will work much better... Hope you dont laugh to much
Finally it works also with my initial idea...
I added 3 switches to PIN 6, 7 and 8 so i can mute and unmute.
I tested it with a small sandisk-pod. Its the best way not destroying anything...because a laptop is at 40% of max. sound already pretty loud.
I think everything now is fine tuneing. Would be cool to see some
of your own ideas of your final version of the control-panel-free-cable-adapter
Also i want to thank everyone who help to make this happen!
Great work and super forum!!! You are the Best!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I added 3 switches to PIN 6, 7 and 8 so i can mute and unmute.
I tested it with a small sandisk-pod. Its the best way not destroying anything...because a laptop is at 40% of max. sound already pretty loud.
I think everything now is fine tuneing. Would be cool to see some
of your own ideas of your final version of the control-panel-free-cable-adapter
Also i want to thank everyone who help to make this happen!
Great work and super forum!!! You are the Best!
Hi everybody,
im glad to find this forum, and to everybody for sharing their info and experience. im too a proud owner of z5500 for 6 years and now finally its giving me problem the control pod. The control pod is not entirely dead its acting funny. Sometime it would decode everything (dd / dts /prologic 2) for a few minutes and then all of a sudden there would be no sound, switching through different aux would bring the sound back but eventually it would lose sound again. And sometime it would go on for hours without breakin down. Ive added a cooling fan and heatsinks to all the cirrus logic chips. After this mod this problem went away for four months now its back. And nothing is helpin. Ive also replace LM317 power regulator which heats up alot but still didn't help. I was thinkin of replacing cs42526-CQZ i would like to have ppls opinons on this. Is cs42526-cqz the culprit in my case?
im glad to find this forum, and to everybody for sharing their info and experience. im too a proud owner of z5500 for 6 years and now finally its giving me problem the control pod. The control pod is not entirely dead its acting funny. Sometime it would decode everything (dd / dts /prologic 2) for a few minutes and then all of a sudden there would be no sound, switching through different aux would bring the sound back but eventually it would lose sound again. And sometime it would go on for hours without breakin down. Ive added a cooling fan and heatsinks to all the cirrus logic chips. After this mod this problem went away for four months now its back. And nothing is helpin. Ive also replace LM317 power regulator which heats up alot but still didn't help. I was thinkin of replacing cs42526-CQZ i would like to have ppls opinons on this. Is cs42526-cqz the culprit in my case?
A small addition to my previous posts. Took some pictures of my PCB and checked what pins orange and white cables lead to. It appeared the orange cable that turns my center speaker on is pin 8, while the white cable that turns the amps on is pin 7. So it's just like the thread said in the beginning, Pin 7 is On. But in my case Pin 8 isn't Mute but Center On.
Looks rough, but it works.
Looks rough, but it works.
Attachments
Last edited by a moderator:
Photos fixed. Please see this thread:http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/everything-else/183084-pictures-why-not-attach-them.html
Logitech Z5500 control pod and sattelite speakers for sale
Hi
I have a Logitech Z-5500 control pod with cable and 5 satellite speakers except subwoofer. I know these are popular on ebay and are hard to find. I no longer have a use for mine.
If any one interested to buy,please contact me.
Sunny.
Hi
I have a Logitech Z-5500 control pod with cable and 5 satellite speakers except subwoofer. I know these are popular on ebay and are hard to find. I no longer have a use for mine.
If any one interested to buy,please contact me.
Sunny.
Hey guys sorry for my terrible English
Boys need the value of the resistors "R21" and "r22"
Clip type system
thank you very much
http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/165/110509231448.jpg
Boys need the value of the resistors "R21" and "r22"
Clip type system
thank you very much
http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/165/110509231448.jpg
Interesting. If possible, could you, please, take pictures of the culprit chip and describe the process of reflowing in details? Maybe not all is lost for my decoder here as well.
Thank you in advance!
Hello. I want use my sub from Z5500 with Yamaha rx-740 without stupid POD.
I make circuit on TDA 7294. Subwoofer is turn on and i have sound but very quaiet. How i can make that sound louder?
Sorry for my bad english.
I make circuit on TDA 7294. Subwoofer is turn on and i have sound but very quaiet. How i can make that sound louder?
Sorry for my bad english.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
cs494003-cq is the decoder chip its the largest chip cant miss it. First thing u should remove the vol knob its pretty tricky (nasty little bugger) be patient take ur time otherwise u can crack the board or rip tracing off (tip put something between the board and knob) it is important to remove the knob becuz during reflow the heat can melt the front plastic panel, once the knob is remove flip open the board and front panel like a wallet. U'll need heat gun, alluminium foil, and a fine brush. Clean the pins with the brush thoroughly. Next cover the caps that are close to the decoder, after that make a wall with alluminium foil surrounding the chip in u-shape, it should be about 2cm tall enough to isolate the heat from spreading to the caps, the opening will face outside the board. Make sure that the wall doesnt fall during the reflow, dont use tape it will melt. If u have no idea about reflow then check youtube or practice on old pcb. I used a cheap heat gun, set it to the lowest level heat and air. Gradually build the heat by keeping the heat gun far then bring it close slowly, took. When the solder joints are shiny thats when u slowly pull the gun away from the chip gradually, took about.1 and half min. During this process the board should be stationary. Let it cool down for 10 to 15 mins. Assemble then reset to default, pink test and ur done. I dont wanna open again to take pics but i can do it on other pcb for example if u like. I only have the decoder chip pic taken previously.
Need help!!! Logitech Z5500
Seems like you guys are a bunch of EXPERTS with research with the Z5500 system...
A tragic lightning strike to my house caused my speakers to blow...
I checked the fuse which was blown replaced with a correct fuse and that blew as well... (instantly, never even turned on, not even a slight light or noise)
Not under warranty, and worst of all they discontinued making these speakers!!! So the new Logitech speakers are horrible in comparaison. (the 906's)
So I was hoping with all of your research maybe someone could help me figure out what is wrong with my system. What would be the normal culprit in such a situation, and how I would go about fixing it???
I do have a complete Z-680 system (except the control pod)
If i am not able to repair the Z5500, maybe it would be possible to use the Pod from the Z5500, to hook it to the Z-680 Sub?
Ideally would like to fix the Z5500 sub/amp/pod or whatever the culprit is.
but if i cant i wouldnt mind using the Z-680...
If i cant do neither, then I will have to try to search all over for a Z5500, (only place online is selling on Amazon for almost $1000 bux!!!)
Thanks in advance for your help!!!
Seems like you guys are a bunch of EXPERTS with research with the Z5500 system...
A tragic lightning strike to my house caused my speakers to blow...
I checked the fuse which was blown replaced with a correct fuse and that blew as well... (instantly, never even turned on, not even a slight light or noise)
Not under warranty, and worst of all they discontinued making these speakers!!! So the new Logitech speakers are horrible in comparaison. (the 906's)
So I was hoping with all of your research maybe someone could help me figure out what is wrong with my system. What would be the normal culprit in such a situation, and how I would go about fixing it???
I do have a complete Z-680 system (except the control pod)
If i am not able to repair the Z5500, maybe it would be possible to use the Pod from the Z5500, to hook it to the Z-680 Sub?
Ideally would like to fix the Z5500 sub/amp/pod or whatever the culprit is.
but if i cant i wouldnt mind using the Z-680...
If i cant do neither, then I will have to try to search all over for a Z5500, (only place online is selling on Amazon for almost $1000 bux!!!)
Thanks in advance for your help!!!
Seems like you guys are a bunch of EXPERTS with research with the Z5500 system...
A tragic lightning strike to my house caused my speakers to blow...
I checked the fuse which was blown replaced with a correct fuse and that blew as well... (instantly, never even turned on, not even a slight light or noise)
Not under warranty, and worst of all they discontinued making these speakers!!! So the new Logitech speakers are horrible in comparaison. (the 906's)
So I was hoping with all of your research maybe someone could help me figure out what is wrong with my system. What would be the normal culprit in such a situation, and how I would go about fixing it???
I do have a complete Z-680 system (except the control pod)
If i am not able to repair the Z5500, maybe it would be possible to use the Pod from the Z5500, to hook it to the Z-680 Sub?
Ideally would like to fix the Z5500 sub/amp/pod or whatever the culprit is.
but if i cant i wouldnt mind using the Z-680...
If i cant do neither, then I will have to try to search all over for a Z5500, (only place online is selling on Amazon for almost $1000 bux!!!)
Thanks in advance for your help!!!
my guess is tat ur house electrical wiring is shorting from somewhere try on other phases with new fuse. if still it is doing the same thing ur transformer is busted.
z5500 repair blog
Hi!
I have a Z5500 (PID: R516) with a lightning damage.
That means: Control-Pod is broken and some parts on the amp and preamp.
I'm blogging the repair progress on Manni's Z-5500 Projekt.
It's written on german, but the infos in the pics are english ;-)
greez Manni
Hi!
I have a Z5500 (PID: R516) with a lightning damage.
That means: Control-Pod is broken and some parts on the amp and preamp.
I'm blogging the repair progress on Manni's Z-5500 Projekt.
It's written on german, but the infos in the pics are english ;-)
greez Manni
hello, (google translator) sorry can not help your problem but maybe see if I can help you in mine, could you give me the value of the resistors R21 and R22 are on the back of the PCB samples in the photo?
Thank you very much and sorry for my English
Which revision you have and what modifications (pin connections) you made??
I bought a panel together with damaged electronics subwoofer (damage lies in the fact that it works only center speaker).
Equipment tested with another control panel (same situation), and my panel, I tested with different electronics and function normally.
This is a new revision - illustrative photo underneath.
http://img864.imageshack.us/img864/9182/481275582520.jpg
I do not want me to believe that all the TDA7294 and operational amplifiers have died.
In what may be a problem?
You have a complete different revision than mine, so i can't help you that much ... To activate all channels of the amp on my revision, i had to feed the orange, blue and white wire (cable from preamp to amp) with about +5VDC. If i only feed the orange one, just the center box works ... maybe thats your problem.
If that doesn't work out, you have to make some live-measurements with a voltmeter on the TDA7294-chips (with caution!!!). Check the supply-voltage etc. on each TDA and compare this measurements with the working one ... then you will hopefully see whats wrong ;-)
Good luck!
greez manni
I'm sorry to disturb but I need help both of you, beside the big blue capacitors are located resistors R21 and R22 would be possible to tell me the colors or values that have such resistance to your pcb? I ask because my Z5500 are charred
sorry for my bad English