Z-5500 Pins
I have the spring clip version of the z-5500. On the inside chip it has 15 connections labeled WA119, WA123, WA100, WA120, WA122, WA121, WA116, WA124, WA126, WA125, WA118, WA115, WA117, WA113 and WA114. Does anyone know which is the corresponding pin to each of pin 1-15? Is WA100 pin 1, WA113 pin 2, WA114 pin 3...in ascending order? Which pin relates to which WA number on the chip?
I have the spring clip version of the z-5500. On the inside chip it has 15 connections labeled WA119, WA123, WA100, WA120, WA122, WA121, WA116, WA124, WA126, WA125, WA118, WA115, WA117, WA113 and WA114. Does anyone know which is the corresponding pin to each of pin 1-15? Is WA100 pin 1, WA113 pin 2, WA114 pin 3...in ascending order? Which pin relates to which WA number on the chip?
Re: Z-5500 Pins
Oh yeah guys, one more thing I found out. If you have problems with popping sounds coming from your subwoofer, then please check the low pass filter on the board. The low pass filter is done by using the pre-amp chip, that is connected to pin 2 (sub in), and some electronic parts near the chip. When I replaced one resistor in that filter, the popping sound started to appear. So, maybe you want to check this out.
If you want to bypass all the electronics inside, you have to hook an amplifier to the red (+) and black (-) wires at the left side going into the subwoofer box. These wires go directly to the driver. At the right side there are the voltage transformer wires with two wires going in and some wires coming out. At least that's how my Z-5450 looks like. There is a video on YouTube that should make it a little bit clearer: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bH5IcQlrahEdonkeysaur said:
So all you need is a standard ready-to-go 3.5 mm jack to VGA adapter for your Z-5500 for all the audio inputs, right? I'm sure somebody is willing to do something like that for you.macross2b5 said:
Excuse me, but which chip are you talking about? Where are these numbers located? I'm sorry, I don't remember these identifiers from when I opened my set.Tucker305 said:
Oh yeah guys, one more thing I found out. If you have problems with popping sounds coming from your subwoofer, then please check the low pass filter on the board. The low pass filter is done by using the pre-amp chip, that is connected to pin 2 (sub in), and some electronic parts near the chip. When I replaced one resistor in that filter, the popping sound started to appear. So, maybe you want to check this out.
Re: Re: Z-5500 Pins
The receiver I have now use a 2 speaker wire to connect to the sub . So what would I need to change on the pin out to be able to connect it with only 2 wires..
Pin-out thanks to someone..
camouflageX said:
So all you need is a standard ready-to-go 3.5 mm jack to VGA adapter for your Z-5500 for all the audio inputs, right? I'm sure somebody is willing to do something like that for you.
The receiver I have now use a 2 speaker wire to connect to the sub . So what would I need to change on the pin out to be able to connect it with only 2 wires..
Pin-out thanks to someone..
Re: Re: Re: Z-5500 Pins
To get some sound in, connect red (+) to pin 2. There is a picture by temp123456 in post #67 showing how it looks like.
I also recommend to use a resistor before pin 2, because the audio might be too loud. temp123456 uses 25k Ohm to reduce the signal.
Oh, I see. I guess you have a pre-out on the receiver you want to use. First of all you have to activate the subwoofer to get any sound out. You do that by connecting pin 6, 7, 13 and maybe 8 to the black wire.macross2b5 said:
To get some sound in, connect red (+) to pin 2. There is a picture by temp123456 in post #67 showing how it looks like.
I also recommend to use a resistor before pin 2, because the audio might be too loud. temp123456 uses 25k Ohm to reduce the signal.
Re: Re: Z-5500 Pins
Never mind i traced the pins back to each on the pre-amp board. I finally got mine to work
camouflageX said:
If you want to bypass all the electronics inside, you have to hook an amplifier to the red (+) and black (-) wires at the left side going into the subwoofer box. These wires go directly to the driver. At the right side there are the voltage transformer wires with two wires going in and some wires coming out. At least that's how my Z-5450 looks like. There is a video on YouTube that should make it a little bit clearer: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bH5IcQlrahE
So all you need is a standard ready-to-go 3.5 mm jack to VGA adapter for your Z-5500 for all the audio inputs, right? I'm sure somebody is willing to do something like that for you.
Excuse me, but which chip are you talking about? Where are these numbers located? I'm sorry, I don't remember these identifiers from when I opened my set.
Oh yeah guys, one more thing I found out. If you have problems with popping sounds coming from your subwoofer, then please check the low pass filter on the board. The low pass filter is done by using the pre-amp chip, that is connected to pin 2 (sub in), and some electronic parts near the chip. When I replaced one resistor in that filter, the popping sound started to appear. So, maybe you want to check this out.
Never mind i traced the pins back to each on the pre-amp board. I finally got mine to work
Hi,
I have been following this post for quite some time and learn a lot from it. I have decided to register with this forum as it seems like a great place for help and helping others. So this will be my first post…
I have had a headless z 5500 system and as I broke my control pod some time back could not get a replacement. I have used the information to build a connection to connect to other input devices which has work fine. I recently however found and used the opportunity to buy a Pod of eBay to try and make this system complete again. I knew about the wiring changes that happened for the Pods number PID 636 and over, yet the number was not supply on the eBay description. Once I received the item with PID 527 I knew it would not hook up to my PID 824 sub which out any changes. I have tried to research this matter for hours taken the pod apart to try and find out what the wiring difference is between the old and new pod. It cannot be a major deal but as I am limited on the tools I have I am not sure which cables need re-soldering to a different position on the board. It would be great help if anyone knew the difference or maybe had an open POD with PID 637 and over, so I could see which connections have changes. I hope I have been clear and not to long winded. Any answers and help are much appreciated.
Thank you.
I have been following this post for quite some time and learn a lot from it. I have decided to register with this forum as it seems like a great place for help and helping others. So this will be my first post…
I have had a headless z 5500 system and as I broke my control pod some time back could not get a replacement. I have used the information to build a connection to connect to other input devices which has work fine. I recently however found and used the opportunity to buy a Pod of eBay to try and make this system complete again. I knew about the wiring changes that happened for the Pods number PID 636 and over, yet the number was not supply on the eBay description. Once I received the item with PID 527 I knew it would not hook up to my PID 824 sub which out any changes. I have tried to research this matter for hours taken the pod apart to try and find out what the wiring difference is between the old and new pod. It cannot be a major deal but as I am limited on the tools I have I am not sure which cables need re-soldering to a different position on the board. It would be great help if anyone knew the difference or maybe had an open POD with PID 637 and over, so I could see which connections have changes. I hope I have been clear and not to long winded. Any answers and help are much appreciated.
Thank you.
Hey mause, did you already to try connecting the pod to your subwoofer? What happens when you connect it?
Did you already take a look at my wire table? It's at post 55 in this thread. Maybe it can give you some clues, because my system should not be too different from yours.
Good luck. If you have any specific question, then just ask.
Did you already take a look at my wire table? It's at post 55 in this thread. Maybe it can give you some clues, because my system should not be too different from yours.
Good luck. If you have any specific question, then just ask.
hi,
thank you for answering. I have connected it and nothing happens. I have final got hold of a digital multi-meter and tested out all the pins to see where they lead to. For some reason I don’t seem to be receiving any voltage through pin 10
10 - +8V for Control Pod logic (thick red)
There seems to be no current from this pin when I ground it. Is there an impulse or connection that has to be running in order for the sub to start emitting the 8 volt or should this be constant even when the control pod is not connected. If yes then I think that might be the problem. Any suggestions
thanks
thank you for answering. I have connected it and nothing happens. I have final got hold of a digital multi-meter and tested out all the pins to see where they lead to. For some reason I don’t seem to be receiving any voltage through pin 10
10 - +8V for Control Pod logic (thick red)
There seems to be no current from this pin when I ground it. Is there an impulse or connection that has to be running in order for the sub to start emitting the 8 volt or should this be constant even when the control pod is not connected. If yes then I think that might be the problem. Any suggestions
thanks
Hey mause,
I remember I had the same "problem" when measuring the voltage on pin 10. The reason why is that you probably measure pin 10 against the common ground. That does not work, because the circuit is not complete that way. There is no connection between the voltage coming out of pin 10 and the "normal" ground.
If you trace pin 10 back to where it comes from, then it should lead to a voltage regulator. From there comes a positive and a ground. That means, you have to measure the positive voltage against this ground. This is the root of this power circuit. The voltage should be constant.
I think, although I'm not sure, you can also measure pin 10 against 11 or 12.
The bare mininum for my pod to turn on was +12V, -12V (turns amps and logic on) and +8V, GND (turns display on). These are the thick wires. Take all of this with a grain of salt, because it is a long time ago that I did this.
Maybe, you want to try this. BTW, are you sure the pod is in a working condition? Good luck!
I remember I had the same "problem" when measuring the voltage on pin 10. The reason why is that you probably measure pin 10 against the common ground. That does not work, because the circuit is not complete that way. There is no connection between the voltage coming out of pin 10 and the "normal" ground.
If you trace pin 10 back to where it comes from, then it should lead to a voltage regulator. From there comes a positive and a ground. That means, you have to measure the positive voltage against this ground. This is the root of this power circuit. The voltage should be constant.
I think, although I'm not sure, you can also measure pin 10 against 11 or 12.
The bare mininum for my pod to turn on was +12V, -12V (turns amps and logic on) and +8V, GND (turns display on). These are the thick wires. Take all of this with a grain of salt, because it is a long time ago that I did this.
Maybe, you want to try this. BTW, are you sure the pod is in a working condition? Good luck!
camouflageX said:Thanks Cliffdude! I'm finished with my Z-5450. The pre-amp chip for the subwoofer was dead, that's why there was barely anything coming out of it. At the moment I'm using the center pre-amp to fuel the big subwoofer amps. The cabling works perfectly fine.
So yeah, I'm happy now and I hope the information will be useful for somebody else. Good luck with your system, too.
Hello CamouflageX,
I was not using my Z5400 for some time, and since I started reusing them, I felt the basses are missing some ferquencies or some boost or something.
Pushing them to Maximum on the POD (I still have workign pod
shows some difference, with overaccentuated basses, but it misses some higher level tones in the middle (I'm trying to determine which ones with some sweep tones later).Listening to music means It's like it's missign somethin in the middle.
Also I can't say the window would tremble in action movies from the basses, yo ucan feel them, but that's almost all. (Subwoofer located in a corner).
To make a long story short, could it be that my preamp is broken as well?
How can I tell ? which chip should I identify ?
Thank you.
That sounds like a good idea.migube said:
Pushing them to Maximum on the POD (I still have workign pod
Hmm, that's weird. I know that the subwoofer input is the only one that has a sound filter. There is an active low-pass filter that cuts off frequencies above 150 Hz or something like that. Just like every other good subwoofer does. This filter is made by using some channels of the subwoofer pre-amp.migube said:
If you want to try, you could bypass the low-pass filter by connecting the output of the center speaker on the back (plus and minus) directly to the subwoofer speaker. That's what I'm doing to bypass the broken chip. :/
Well, I'm not an expert on these things.migube said:
First of all the pre-amp chips are these tiny chips in the middle of the board. There are like one for every input channel. Just trace the subwoofer input (pin 2) on the board and you should get to the right chip very fast. The subwoofer pre-amp (also called operational amp) is the one on the left hand side in this picture: http://www.digitaverna.ro/img/2.jpg. It has more legs than the other ones because of the additional channels it needs for the low-pass filter.
I think, I was measuring the output of the pre-amp chip (search for the chip specs) in terms of voltage. I think I also tried to reroute some sound directly to the chip input, directly to the chip output, and so on. I just wanted to see what happens.
But be careful, if you really want to do this! So my conclusion was that my pre-amp chip is dead.Thanks for the quick response !
Digitaverna seems to be down, will try later.
I used the test files at http://binkster.net/extras.shtml#cd , and noticed some frequencies being somewhat less loud than others, while testing near the subwoofer.
Then I thought, but I have to test from my couch.
I sat down, & the 60hz that was good near the sub, was almost inaudible in the seat....
So I did the test of putting the subwoofer in the couch, and found that the other corner of the room (without glass, pure wall), had a good reception./
I swapped the subwoofer, and now I can hear 60hz & others much much better !
Thanks anyhow
Digitaverna seems to be down, will try later.
I used the test files at http://binkster.net/extras.shtml#cd , and noticed some frequencies being somewhat less loud than others, while testing near the subwoofer.
Then I thought, but I have to test from my couch.
I sat down, & the 60hz that was good near the sub, was almost inaudible in the seat....
So I did the test of putting the subwoofer in the couch, and found that the other corner of the room (without glass, pure wall), had a good reception./
I swapped the subwoofer, and now I can hear 60hz & others much much better !
Thanks anyhow
z5500 problem
ok. i some how managed to screw this up.
I was trying to install a remote control knob and connected the input of all audio channels to the sub output line.
When i turned it on there was a low buzzing sound in the subwoofer, I turned it off and back on again and then there was a loud plopping sound in the sub so i turned it off.
Now when I plug the headphone jack into a audio source it makes a noise caused by the friction but no music is heard through the speakers.
I decided to just put the control knob directly in between the sub line, but I cannot test it since I'm getting no sound.
The fuse isn't blown and the sub and the amp still works. Is there anyway I can reverse this effect or fix this problem?
ok. i some how managed to screw this up.
I was trying to install a remote control knob and connected the input of all audio channels to the sub output line.
When i turned it on there was a low buzzing sound in the subwoofer, I turned it off and back on again and then there was a loud plopping sound in the sub so i turned it off.
Now when I plug the headphone jack into a audio source it makes a noise caused by the friction but no music is heard through the speakers.
I decided to just put the control knob directly in between the sub line, but I cannot test it since I'm getting no sound.
The fuse isn't blown and the sub and the amp still works. Is there anyway I can reverse this effect or fix this problem?
temp123456 said:Hi all
I have a z-5500 subwoofer (with amp. and all in it) and I wanted to connect the sub to my Technics amp.
I've made it like in this pic (made by me in paint ;p):
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
But, the sub doesn't work and I'm wondering if I made something wrong? Have I turned the PINS 180 degrees and connected them wrong?
I've used this INSTRUCTION:
I think this pic of the connector is the pic of the pins of the male out of sub (and the mirror pic of the pins in the male cable connector?)
Is the connection made by me good or not?
I've tested the woofer (before connecting him in the way described above) on a good control center (from z-5500) and it turned off when I played music on him (the contorl center pwr button turned RED, but the pic on the LED display was still there, and dissapeared only after I pulled the supply cable out).
I've tested it again and I've turned the sub off in the control panel and played music (the satelite speakers were not connected) and it didn't turned off, but after giving to the sub 10% of the power and playing music it turned off!
When I turned the sub off but connected one satelite speaker and played music the satelite membrane was moving (I could notice with my eye a 2cm amplitude!!!) but no senseable voice came out.
Coul anyone tell me if I made the connection to the Technics AMP right?
And what' wrong with the amp in the woofer?
Sorry for my bad language (I'm an outlander
What happen to your pic of how you had your unit wired up. I've just now gotten around to trying it and I still can't get any sound to come out...Please help