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Chip Amps Amplifiers based on integrated circuits

Hacking the Logitech Z5500
Hacking the Logitech Z5500
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Old 30th June 2012, 11:18 PM   #421
shmn is offline shmn  United States
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I have the first version of the Z-5500, model S-0115A with a control pod with a strange PID: 10004885-0501R (it actually doesn't say "PID" on the sticker...it just has all those numbers in two rows) which I bought in 2002. The Pod just died (codec chip CS42526 fried). Does anyone know if this version can use the "pre-636" cables found on E-bay or if the pinouts are similar to any other version. I read through most of this thread and could find no reference to the early model Z-5500 that I have. Thanks.
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Old 1st July 2012, 03:52 AM   #422
Sstevensn72 is offline Sstevensn72  United States
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Sorry above didnt stay aligned. On the POT Pin1 = Input, Pin2 = output, pin3 = Shield/ Ground

Last edited by Sstevensn72; 1st July 2012 at 03:57 AM.
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Old 1st July 2012, 03:56 AM   #423
Sstevensn72 is offline Sstevensn72  United States
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Default Did you check the bottom of the sub?

If so that has the PID listed above? normally there is a sticker on the bottom of the sub.

As far as the cables on Ebay. If they are between 201 & 635 or pre 636 I believe they work great except for center channel will be disabled. They will tell you that it can not be done without internal modifications. But my post above says you can create a cable without internal mods to enable center channel. At least on my model.
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Old 5th July 2012, 03:05 AM   #424
shmn is offline shmn  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sstevensn72 View Post
If so that has the PID listed above? normally there is a sticker on the bottom of the sub.

As far as the cables on Ebay. If they are between 201 & 635 or pre 636 I believe they work great except for center channel will be disabled. They will tell you that it can not be done without internal modifications. But my post above says you can create a cable without internal mods to enable center channel. At least on my model.
I checked the bottom of the sub and it has the same number as the one on the control pod: 10004885-0501R.

I may just buy a cable and try it out. I'm just worried about frying something.
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Old 8th July 2012, 04:24 AM   #425
da1pnoiboi is offline da1pnoiboi  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sstevensn72 View Post
Not sure if this accounts for all of them but you can get it to work without any internal mods.

What I did is took and grounded the pin 7 and took a 220 ohm resistor between the +8 v pin and the pin 8 to properly enabled all the speakers. No longer needing the internal modifications and the circuits stay isolated due to the diodes/transistors properly applying the enabling voltage to the orange and white wires.

Only other thing I did is put volume control into the input circuit by adding 47k ohm pots in line.

If hooking pots up make sure you hook them up like this:

Input >>>>> ------ pin1 pin2 pin3 -----<<<<<< Shield/Ground
|
|
|
|
output to speakers

You will most likely for sure need this for the sub. I did it because I could only bring my computer volume to 10 before being to loud. By adding these inline on all inputs I have my volume at about 50% and its about right and allows me to also turn it up loud if I want(75%)
so if i read this correctly, you are using the diagram from here for the wire but instead of connecting pin 8 to ground, you connect it to pin 10 (+8V) with a 220 ohm resistor inbetween?

Also, noobish question, the 47k ohm Pots, you need 1 per speaker, or can you use 1 per cable? Thanks for the help.
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Old 12th July 2012, 03:35 AM   #426
shmn is offline shmn  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shmn View Post
I have the first version of the Z-5500, model S-0115A with a control pod with a strange PID: 10004885-0501R (it actually doesn't say "PID" on the sticker...it just has all those numbers in two rows) which I bought in 2002. The Pod just died (codec chip CS42526 fried). Does anyone know if this version can use the "pre-636" cables found on E-bay or if the pinouts are similar to any other version. I read through most of this thread and could find no reference to the early model Z-5500 that I have. Thanks.
I ended up ordering the "pre-636" cable to try it out and it works fine with my older unit. The center channel doesn't work...I knew this going in because the listing on E-bay says it won't work with this cable unless something internally on the sub is modified.

Can someone tell me what this internal sub mod entails? Maybe a link to the post in this thread? I read through a lot of the thread but I'm not sure which mod to do.
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Old 13th July 2012, 08:45 PM   #427
Peyton is offline Peyton
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beatinvasion View Post
Hello
I created a video in German. I show how the Z-5500 as remodels active subwoofer.
I made two more videos, I show how to modify the cable.

Here is the link: Hacking the Logitech Z 5500 Control Panel Problem - German - Aktiv Subwoofer umbau - Tutorials2k - YouTube

Have fun
Great !

I have a prob with mine. It's the same as the video (dated 2005 on PCB) and i did exactly the same as you did but i have so sound. I hear the amp goes on but nothing goes out. When i plug the pod and do test it works. Does all mute as to be solder to GND ? (7 or 8) actually all 6/7/8 are on GND.
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Old 13th July 2012, 10:51 PM   #428
Peyton is offline Peyton
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Nevermind, it's working. I just have to put my receiver on before power on the sub.
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Old 15th July 2012, 02:15 AM   #429
cosmotic is offline cosmotic  United States
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I purchased a cable from ebay to enable my z5500 to work without the control pod. The problem with this cable is it apparently send the maximum signal to the sub and the sub COMPLETELY overpowers the rest of the sound. I tried cutting the wire inside the sub to the sub-speaker and that cut the bass too much. Next step? Add a pot to control the sub to control the volume of just the sub channel. The problem? I'm a novice when it comes to electronics.

I used a potentiometer from Radio Shack: 10K-Ohm Audio Control Potentiometer with SPST Switch - RadioShack.com

and soldered it inline With the grey wire between the (i'm guessing) line level board to the amp board with the ground pin going to the ground wire attached to the back of the heat-sink.

It works great!

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Old 22nd July 2012, 12:15 PM   #430
Peyton is offline Peyton
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Do you have some pics on what you did ? Did you totally bypass the preamp board ?
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