Hacking the Logitech Z5500

Good morning all!
I'm brand new to this forum, and audio repair in general, but I do have some basic electronics repair experience. I own a DMM and soldering iron, and haven't burned down my house yet. ;)
I'm very sorry, but I just don't have the patience to read 66 pages of notes I probably wouldn't understand anyway, and I'm in need of some assistance in repairing my beloved Z-5500s.


Here's my question:

Recently, my control pod has started acting up. The red standby light will sometimes turn off completely. Pressing the button does nothing. If I turn off the power switch on the sub, and wait a few seconds, I can usually get it to come back to standby, and then the button will turn on the unit as expected.
However, today it started turning itself off even after I power cycle it. So I'll turn it on, light goes blue, sound comes on. Audio plays for a few seconds (or minutes), then speakers go dead and light goes red, or sometimes off entirely. Obviously something is slowly dying, but I have no idea what component it would be or where to look. I figure the gurus in this thread have been all through this unit and could direct me where to start looking. Please? :)
 
Good morning all!
I'm brand new to this forum, and audio repair in general, but I do have some basic electronics repair experience. I own a DMM and soldering iron, and haven't burned down my house yet. ;)
I'm very sorry, but I just don't have the patience to read 66 pages of notes I probably wouldn't understand anyway, and I'm in need of some assistance in repairing my beloved Z-5500s.


Here's my question:

Recently, my control pod has started acting up. The red standby light will sometimes turn off completely. Pressing the button does nothing. If I turn off the power switch on the sub, and wait a few seconds, I can usually get it to come back to standby, and then the button will turn on the unit as expected.
However, today it started turning itself off even after I power cycle it. So I'll turn it on, light goes blue, sound comes on. Audio plays for a few seconds (or minutes), then speakers go dead and light goes red, or sometimes off entirely. Obviously something is slowly dying, but I have no idea what component it would be or where to look. I figure the gurus in this thread have been all through this unit and could direct me where to start looking. Please? :)






the problem is with one of the 3 capacitors on the board. watch the video on how to fix it.
After opening the plate. on the back you restore the cold solders from the capacitors. good luck

Logitech Z5500 Problem solving
YouTube

Logitech Z5500 Display light repair!
YouTube[/QUOTE]
 
Dunno Mine died a while back Took it to bits. Found it's innards erm.. Underwhelming.
Pissed by the realisation.
I bought a pair of Parts express TC9 speakers,
Took a chance on an Ebay 2.1 amp /control module. Hey! it was 10 Bux delivered :)
Sounds? FAR better than the logitech ever managed.... for a fraction of the effing Logitech things' purchase price.
Sometimes it's best to simply move on .. walk away.
YMMV tho.
 
Hey guys, thanks for the replies!
Sorry for the delay, I didn't get notified for some reason. :confused:
@Bare: I'm glad you're happy with the 2.1 setup, but I'm really in love with my 5.1, and don't want to give it up if I have a choice. I'm firmly in the "fix it if possible, replace it if not" camp, so I'd like to at least try to repair this thing before I give up on it.
@jonny000: I watched the first video, which was just horrid, but I don't see anything there that applies to my system. I didn't watch the 2nd video because I have no control pod issues.
All my caps are already glued in place from the factory, and seem to be secure. I have no clue what he was trying to show in the 2nd half of that video, other than maybe replacing the sub wire?

I do have 2 areas on my board that look a little suspect.

The first is near the center of the main board. It almost looks like some component blew up, but I've also seen another image online of someone else's board that looks almost the same, so perhaps that's normal?
The 2nd area is one of the caps shown in the video, the box-type cap. Not sure of the correct name. The glue around the base of the component under the cap appears to have been overheated, and it's very hard and brittle. I don't know if this indicates anything to anyone, but these are the only visible areas that look anything but pristine.
If there's something in that video that I missed, please let me know what it was. I'd hate to have to watch it again unless I had to. :D
 

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The 2nd area is one of the caps shown in the video, the box-type cap. Not sure of the correct name. The glue around the base of the component under the cap appears to have been overheated, and it's very hard and brittle. I don't know if this indicates anything to anyone, but these are the only visible areas that look anything but pristine.
If there's something in that video that I missed, please let me know what it was. I'd hate to have to watch it again unless I had to. :D

Thats the main problem why all Control Pod of a Z 5500 died's.
I repair number of these speakers and all have same fault.The under sized diode bridge plus voltage regulator after him.Replace this Bridge with higher current one and u ready to go long years ahead.
 
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basi: My control pod is fine, but my amp has died. Would that be the same issue?
The 'diode bridge' and voltage regulator you mention that need to be replaced, are those the 2 components visible in the 2nd photo I attached above?
If so, what item #s do you suggest I purchase to replace them?
Thanks!
 
basi: My control pod is fine, but my amp has died. Would that be the same issue?
The 'diode bridge' and voltage regulator you mention that need to be replaced, are those the 2 components visible in the 2nd photo I attached above?
If so, what item #s do you suggest I purchase to replace them?
Thanks!

Yeah the black round part from second picture is bridge and that bridge give almost all voltages to the control pod and that bridge also give voltages to power on the amplifiers in whole system.
 
Wow. Mine thankfully doesn't look THAT bad. LOL
What should I order to replace it?
Do I need to replace the square capacitor (vreg?) that sits over it as well?
How about the blue can-type cap sitting next to it?
Item numbers or at least specs for parts that you know to be good replacements would be greatly appreciated, since you say you've fixed several of these.
 
Wow. Mine thankfully doesn't look THAT bad. LOL
What should I order to replace it?
Do I need to replace the square capacitor (vreg?) that sits over it as well?
How about the blue can-type cap sitting next to it?
Item numbers or at least specs for parts that you know to be good replacements would be greatly appreciated, since you say you've fixed several of these.

I put these because i have them in my stash.

https://www.vishay.com/docs/88528/2w005g.pdf

U can replace them with any of the same footprint but use 2 amp or higher.
 
Possible to fix the LCD screen in control pod?

Hi All!

New here. Found this site, and figured someone might know, if it's possible to replace the LCD screen in the control pod for the Z5500's?
Mine is so feint it can't be read any more, but the rest of the kit still works perfectly.
If anyone happens to know, is there a list of components I'd need to get, and any idea where I might be able to purchase them from? I'm in Australia, but as long as I can at least order online, I'm sure that will work fine :)

Thanks in advance!
 
Ok, so after much head scratching, I finally got the board out so I can access the rear. Once my new rectifier gets here, this should be a fairly easy fix....maybe.
Now that I can inspect the back of the PCB, I see something that worries me.
What do you guys think? Is that a blown cap in the center of the 2nd image, or just discoloration of some sort?
 

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Thanks Elmojo!

Thanks muchly for the links Elmojo! A little more effort than I was hoping for, but still well worth a look I'd say :) Hopefully the reflow of solder might be enough, because I'm having exactly the same issue as the guy in the second video. Light works, but the text is just very faded and barely visible :)