OK, after some more testing on my Z-5450 I found out that the subwoofer probably is not muted, because when I don't unmute it, I can't hear anything at all. Also I can hear the amp doing some noise when I turn it on or off.
Here is an updated pin layout for the Z-5450 (for subwoofer audio only):
pin 2 <--- line out signal (audio for subwoofer)
pin 6 <--- line out GND (unmute)
pin 7 <--- line out GND (turns amp on)
pin 13 <--- line out GND (signal GND)
So if you have ANY idea why the subwoofer is so really quiet, please tell me. Thank you very much!
Here is an updated pin layout for the Z-5450 (for subwoofer audio only):
pin 2 <--- line out signal (audio for subwoofer)
pin 6 <--- line out GND (unmute)
pin 7 <--- line out GND (turns amp on)
pin 13 <--- line out GND (signal GND)
So if you have ANY idea why the subwoofer is so really quiet, please tell me. Thank you very much!
Hi Guys,
Ive been following this guide to pretty much recrate what Baumm did. The only problem is that i have no pin 6. Since im in australia things seem to be quite different (including the board) but pins such as 13/14/15 do match up.
So at the moment in have 7/8/13 connected to the sleeve of an RCA and the 2 connected to the middle of the RCA but the amp/sub will not power on.
Im at a loss looking for what to use since i dont have a pin 6 on my board. I have tested this via a Multimeter(VOM) and tested for continuity only to find theres nothing there.
Any help would be apprecitated.
Ive been following this guide to pretty much recrate what Baumm did. The only problem is that i have no pin 6. Since im in australia things seem to be quite different (including the board) but pins such as 13/14/15 do match up.
So at the moment in have 7/8/13 connected to the sleeve of an RCA and the 2 connected to the middle of the RCA but the amp/sub will not power on.
Im at a loss looking for what to use since i dont have a pin 6 on my board. I have tested this via a Multimeter(VOM) and tested for continuity only to find theres nothing there.
Any help would be apprecitated.
Hey guys, i am a total novice at these things, being only 17, but ive analyzed this thread pretty well (i think).
So i have a couple things to ask.
#1: Could you do this with a stereo reciever? (JVC RX-6020V) It has a sub out..
#2: When soddering the wires, are you soddering RCA wire (Center; sleeve) to S-VGA wire (pin wires 2; 6,7,8 and 13) or to the actual inside of the sub (on the chip)?
Any help would be GREATLY appreciated as ive been trying to figure out how to hook this up without the stupid little control pod (which goes for about 200 dollars on ebay...) for around 6 months. I will be following this thread closely, as it is the only one of its kind on the net.
Thank you so much for all your posts, im so much closer to having a working set of wicked speakers. Now all i need is these two questions answered and ill be set!
So i have a couple things to ask.
#1: Could you do this with a stereo reciever? (JVC RX-6020V) It has a sub out..
#2: When soddering the wires, are you soddering RCA wire (Center; sleeve) to S-VGA wire (pin wires 2; 6,7,8 and 13) or to the actual inside of the sub (on the chip)?
Any help would be GREATLY appreciated as ive been trying to figure out how to hook this up without the stupid little control pod (which goes for about 200 dollars on ebay...) for around 6 months. I will be following this thread closely, as it is the only one of its kind on the net.
Thank you so much for all your posts, im so much closer to having a working set of wicked speakers. Now all i need is these two questions answered and ill be set!
Hi,
I am trying to get a Z-5450 sub to work and if possible the left and right channels. I have seen the pinout for the Z-5500, what I would like to know is if anyone has a pinout for the Z5450 and If it is the same? I read camouflageX 's post but you don't mention the other connections for FL FR nor if you got it to work!
Any help on this would be great I can start messing about but it would be nice to get as much info as possible.
I am trying to get a Z-5450 sub to work and if possible the left and right channels. I have seen the pinout for the Z-5500, what I would like to know is if anyone has a pinout for the Z5450 and If it is the same? I read camouflageX 's post but you don't mention the other connections for FL FR nor if you got it to work!
Any help on this would be great I can start messing about but it would be nice to get as much info as possible.
There are, or were, some relatively inexpensive Dolby Digital decoders out there that were intended for computer sound, but for some reason they're fetching silly amounts of money on eBay, last time I checked. Creative's DDTS-100 is one; there's others, some very obscure. Possibly the best bet is the original Creative Labs Extigy; it is supposed to work in standalone mode (not plugged into a computer via USB) as a DD decoder. Those don't fetch much money on the 'bay, and don't take up much space.
For reasons I don't understand, Dolby Digital doesn't seem to have been a success in the car video market, so you may find deals on 12V Dolby Digital decoders. I've picked up two Panasonic units from the clearance table at a local store for $25 each. CY-AC300EX, or something like that; they have a wired control/display unit, but tragically no wireless remote for volume. Be careful with other autosound DD decoders, since some only work with particular head units.
Finally, there were various add-on surround decoders intended for use with AV receivers that were sold as "digital ready" (meaning they had 5.1 analog inputs). Most were Dolby Digital only, but the Technics SHAC-500D included DTS, and included a remote for volume control and source switching, which made it a very usable if you hooked it up to separate power amps. Stereophile's Guide To Home Theater gave the Technics receiver/decoder combo a class B rating, which is rather high praise for a setup you could buy at a big box store. Keep your eyes open at pawn shops, yard sales and the trade-in shelves at audio boutiques.
However, for the same kind of money you ought to be able to find an entry level digital surround A/V receiver. I'd expect demand (and prices) for Dolby Digital/DTS surround stuff should be way down now that HDMI audio is the state of the art.
For reasons I don't understand, Dolby Digital doesn't seem to have been a success in the car video market, so you may find deals on 12V Dolby Digital decoders. I've picked up two Panasonic units from the clearance table at a local store for $25 each. CY-AC300EX, or something like that; they have a wired control/display unit, but tragically no wireless remote for volume. Be careful with other autosound DD decoders, since some only work with particular head units.
Finally, there were various add-on surround decoders intended for use with AV receivers that were sold as "digital ready" (meaning they had 5.1 analog inputs). Most were Dolby Digital only, but the Technics SHAC-500D included DTS, and included a remote for volume control and source switching, which made it a very usable if you hooked it up to separate power amps. Stereophile's Guide To Home Theater gave the Technics receiver/decoder combo a class B rating, which is rather high praise for a setup you could buy at a big box store. Keep your eyes open at pawn shops, yard sales and the trade-in shelves at audio boutiques.
However, for the same kind of money you ought to be able to find an entry level digital surround A/V receiver. I'd expect demand (and prices) for Dolby Digital/DTS surround stuff should be way down now that HDMI audio is the state of the art.
Hey cliffdude,
it's good to see that you are also trying to get the Z-5450 to work. Maybe we can join forces. Well yes, I got the front speakers to work although they are very loud, so keep the volume down or use a high ohm resistor.
This is my current understanding of the Z-5450 connector at the moment:
1 - ? (maybe unused)
2 - Sub In
3 - ? (maybe unused)
4 - Center in
5 - Left Front in
6 - Unmute left, right, subwoofer
7 - Turn amp on
8 - Unmute center
9 - Right Front in
10 - ?
11 - ?
12 - ?
13 - ground
14 - +12 V
15 - -12 V
A connection for the speakers to a 3,5 mm jack would look like this:
pin 5 <--- line out tip (audio for left speaker)
pin 6 <--- line out GND (unmute left, right, subwoofer)
pin 7 <--- line out GND (turns amp on)
pin 8 <--- line out GND (unmute center (optional))
pin 9 <--- line out ring (audio for right speaker)
pin 13 <--- line out GND (signal GND)
It would be nice to hear if you get yours working. Thanks!
it's good to see that you are also trying to get the Z-5450 to work. Maybe we can join forces.
Well yes, I got the front speakers to work although they are very loud, so keep the volume down or use a high ohm resistor.This is my current understanding of the Z-5450 connector at the moment:
1 - ? (maybe unused)
2 - Sub In
3 - ? (maybe unused)
4 - Center in
5 - Left Front in
6 - Unmute left, right, subwoofer
7 - Turn amp on
8 - Unmute center
9 - Right Front in
10 - ?
11 - ?
12 - ?
13 - ground
14 - +12 V
15 - -12 V
A connection for the speakers to a 3,5 mm jack would look like this:
pin 5 <--- line out tip (audio for left speaker)
pin 6 <--- line out GND (unmute left, right, subwoofer)
pin 7 <--- line out GND (turns amp on)
pin 8 <--- line out GND (unmute center (optional))
pin 9 <--- line out ring (audio for right speaker)
pin 13 <--- line out GND (signal GND)
It would be nice to hear if you get yours working. Thanks!
Hello harlanking!
Here is an answer to your question...
#1: Could you do this with a stereo reciever? (JVC RX-6020V) It has a sub out..
Yes, you could use that receiver. It has a build in amp for the speakers and a pre-out for the subwoofer. That means the subwoofer must have its own amp, which it does.
#2: When soddering the wires, are you soddering RCA wire (Center; sleeve) to S-VGA wire (pin wires 2; 6,7,8 and 13) or to the actual inside of the sub (on the chip)?
Well, you shouldn't solder on the inside of the subwoofer if you don't absolutetly have to. In your case you could just use an RCA plug and a VGA connector. The pins 2 and 6,7,8,13 should be right.
Have fun!
Here is an answer to your question...
#1: Could you do this with a stereo reciever? (JVC RX-6020V) It has a sub out..
Yes, you could use that receiver. It has a build in amp for the speakers and a pre-out for the subwoofer. That means the subwoofer must have its own amp, which it does.
#2: When soddering the wires, are you soddering RCA wire (Center; sleeve) to S-VGA wire (pin wires 2; 6,7,8 and 13) or to the actual inside of the sub (on the chip)?
Well, you shouldn't solder on the inside of the subwoofer if you don't absolutetly have to. In your case you could just use an RCA plug and a VGA connector. The pins 2 and 6,7,8,13 should be right.
Have fun!
OK guys, finally... After some really long nights I was able to get the correct wire configuration by tracing the boards and doing some research on the chips. I still have a problem, but first I will give you my results, maybe somebody will find them useful:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Z-5450 15-pin Subwoofer to Control Pod connection
===============================
1 - N.C.
2 - Sub in (grey)
3 - N.C.
4 - Center in (green)
5 - Left Front in (yellow)
6 - Turn amps on (orange)
7 - Unmute left, right, subwoofer (blue)
8 - Unmute center (white)
9 - Right Front in (purple)
10 - +8V for Control Pod logic (thick red)
11 - Ground for Control Pod (thick green)
12 - Ground for Control Pod (thick blue)
13 - Overheat detect? (black)
14 - +12 V for Control Pod logic (thick brown)
15 - -12 V for Control Pod logic (thick black)
Shield - Blank wire
Pin 1 and 3 are not connected, because the Z-5450 has two wireless satellite speakers. For a wired speaker system these would be connected to red and brown.
Use this information at your own risk!
If you have any questions, then just ask me and I will try to help you.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Now, on to my problem. So after I have the control pod connected, I still don't get a decent subwoofer volume. I can barely hear it when I turn the volume all the way up. When I connect the subwoofer driver wires (red and black) directly to an amped output, it works just fine, so that part is OK. BTW, the satellites work without any problems.
Any ideas? Thanks.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Z-5450 15-pin Subwoofer to Control Pod connection
===============================
1 - N.C.
2 - Sub in (grey)
3 - N.C.
4 - Center in (green)
5 - Left Front in (yellow)
6 - Turn amps on (orange)
7 - Unmute left, right, subwoofer (blue)
8 - Unmute center (white)
9 - Right Front in (purple)
10 - +8V for Control Pod logic (thick red)
11 - Ground for Control Pod (thick green)
12 - Ground for Control Pod (thick blue)
13 - Overheat detect? (black)
14 - +12 V for Control Pod logic (thick brown)
15 - -12 V for Control Pod logic (thick black)
Shield - Blank wire
Pin 1 and 3 are not connected, because the Z-5450 has two wireless satellite speakers. For a wired speaker system these would be connected to red and brown.
Use this information at your own risk!
If you have any questions, then just ask me and I will try to help you.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Now, on to my problem. So after I have the control pod connected, I still don't get a decent subwoofer volume. I can barely hear it when I turn the volume all the way up. When I connect the subwoofer driver wires (red and black) directly to an amped output, it works just fine, so that part is OK. BTW, the satellites work without any problems.
Any ideas?
Thanks. Z-5300 Pinouts
Hello,
I have Z-5300 and DDTS-100 digital decoder
I really dont want to use Z-5300's remote but control speakers from DDTS-100 and would like all speakers signal comes out with full range so it can be control via DDTS-100.
Right now i have to turn on Speakers from SOUNDTOUCH remote first then DDTS-100 and i have to turn all the volume high so tht it can be controlled by DDTS-100.
Summary: I want to disconnect SOUNDTOUCH remote from circuit. when i turn the power the speakers turns on without touching SOUNDTOUCH and full range of all speakers come out..
I tried to explain my problem
any help is appriciated
Hello,
I have Z-5300 and DDTS-100 digital decoder
I really dont want to use Z-5300's remote but control speakers from DDTS-100 and would like all speakers signal comes out with full range so it can be control via DDTS-100.
Right now i have to turn on Speakers from SOUNDTOUCH remote first then DDTS-100 and i have to turn all the volume high so tht it can be controlled by DDTS-100.
Summary: I want to disconnect SOUNDTOUCH remote from circuit. when i turn the power the speakers turns on without touching SOUNDTOUCH and full range of all speakers come out..
I tried to explain my problem
any help is appriciated
Hello orexio,
well it looks like the Z-5300 uses the control pod in a totally different way than the Z-5400 and Z-5500 series. As far as I see the pod on the Z-5300 only controls ON/OFF, volumes and things like that. So at least you'll have to find a way to turn the system on and set a high volume level. According to the information in another forum it uses digital TTL signals for the volume controls, which are hard to replicate yourself. That's a shame, because you can't just take the information we already have for our systems and just copy it.
There would also be way to bypass the digital audio controlling so that you don't have wo worry about the volume control, but it won't be easy either. Basically you'll have to skip the digital audio processor which is inside the back of the subwoofer. So you hook up your analog audio behind the digital audio processor and let it continue from there. But if you are really lucky this isn't even needed, because it already has a default volume. I don't know about that...
Unfortunately I can't get into details about the Z-5300, because I don't have any experience with that system. The best would be to ask Koryo in the other forum, because he seems to have much knowledge about it. Good luck!
well it looks like the Z-5300 uses the control pod in a totally different way than the Z-5400 and Z-5500 series. As far as I see the pod on the Z-5300 only controls ON/OFF, volumes and things like that. So at least you'll have to find a way to turn the system on and set a high volume level. According to the information in another forum it uses digital TTL signals for the volume controls, which are hard to replicate yourself. That's a shame, because you can't just take the information we already have for our systems and just copy it.
There would also be way to bypass the digital audio controlling so that you don't have wo worry about the volume control, but it won't be easy either. Basically you'll have to skip the digital audio processor which is inside the back of the subwoofer. So you hook up your analog audio behind the digital audio processor and let it continue from there. But if you are really lucky this isn't even needed, because it already has a default volume. I don't know about that...
Unfortunately I can't get into details about the Z-5300, because I don't have any experience with that system. The best would be to ask Koryo in the other forum, because he seems to have much knowledge about it. Good luck!