hi im hooking up my system this year in my 99 yukon ive just built a new sub encloser. re did my wiring making sure i have clean and tight connections. The problem im having is when the amp is on and pushing my subs my voltage drops to around 11.5 volts. My amps are a colossus xx 3200 watts rms running 4 12" kicker solo baric l5's and a colossusxi 2400 watts rms running 2 sets of mb quart q series componet sets 5 1/4" . I have put a 190 amp alternator in my truck made by ohio generrator and 3 yellow top batteries. 1/0 gauge running throughout my truck someone told me if i added a cap it would help me out and others said it will make the problem worse wondering if someone might be able to point me in the right direction i dont really wanna add another alternator which is $600 and the bracket at $400 so wondering if i might be able to do something else to help the problem any help would greatly be appericated
didnt try ground strapping my engine yet ill try that and see what happens. I have one more question im running a 2 channel amp to 2 sets of componets and im bi-wiring them so there is 4 positive and 4 negative wire that go to one channel and same with the other when i try to put 4 wires in the amp i get crappy loose connections wondering what the best way is to run the 4 wire to the amp butt splice them down to one wire to the amp or what?
With high-end components that have the ability to bi-amp them, you have to use a 4-channel per pair of speakers. Using a 2-channel amp on 2 pairs of speakers you would not bi-amp(bi-wire) them. You would just hook them up without using the second pair of inputs on the crossovers. This way you will only have two wires going to each terminal of the amp, and hence, less mess.
i can imagine the clutter running 4 wires to 1 terminal...
alternatively , you can run wires to each set of woofer inputs..then parrallel wires to each tweeter input..from each woofer input
for each side.
make sure you differentiate between input and output...
if you install the input wires via the outputs, it will change the frequency response of the passive network....
the outputs should only go to the speakers
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after you have the inputs sorted out...its time to adjust the phase of the speakers by selecting the polarity..via the outputs.
wiring up the speakers via the passive network can be tricky...
ignore the polarity marked on the box...'USE YOUR EARS'....the path length differences between front L/R...and rear L/R can be huge.
this will entail switching back and forth between polarities +/-
start with the right front speaker (american left hand drive)
switch the polarity back and forth until the midbass feels the most solid....you may want to use a song with strong midbass.
then select the polarity of the left speaker, until you get the strongest midbass response....switching back and forth like the first speaker.
then do the rear right speaker , also switching back and forth until you get the strongest midbass...
then do the last rear left speaker......
then repeat for the tweeters...also listening for the most impact...tweeter wise.
---------------------------------------------------------
this is a technique to gather the most midbass, that will hit in unison... if done correctly, it will sound like one low powered 10"
BUT sometimes it is desireable to have spatial midrange and sometimes it requires exactly the opposite...its up to your taste in music...and dependent on the judging criteria if competing...
i know it sounds confusing, but if you take your time..it will be worth it....sometimes its easier to feel the pressure on your chest, then your ears...
do the same for the subs...
alternatively , you can run wires to each set of woofer inputs..then parrallel wires to each tweeter input..from each woofer input
for each side.
make sure you differentiate between input and output...
if you install the input wires via the outputs, it will change the frequency response of the passive network....
the outputs should only go to the speakers
------------------------------------------------------
after you have the inputs sorted out...its time to adjust the phase of the speakers by selecting the polarity..via the outputs.
wiring up the speakers via the passive network can be tricky...
ignore the polarity marked on the box...'USE YOUR EARS'....the path length differences between front L/R...and rear L/R can be huge.
this will entail switching back and forth between polarities +/-
start with the right front speaker (american left hand drive)
switch the polarity back and forth until the midbass feels the most solid....you may want to use a song with strong midbass.
then select the polarity of the left speaker, until you get the strongest midbass response....switching back and forth like the first speaker.
then do the rear right speaker , also switching back and forth until you get the strongest midbass...
then do the last rear left speaker......
then repeat for the tweeters...also listening for the most impact...tweeter wise.
---------------------------------------------------------
this is a technique to gather the most midbass, that will hit in unison... if done correctly, it will sound like one low powered 10"
BUT sometimes it is desireable to have spatial midrange and sometimes it requires exactly the opposite...its up to your taste in music...and dependent on the judging criteria if competing...
i know it sounds confusing, but if you take your time..it will be worth it....sometimes its easier to feel the pressure on your chest, then your ears...
do the same for the subs...
Ohio Generator makes good stuff .
Stinger makes good batteries to help with the voltage drop.
Optima batteries would help you out to.
Well doing more searching i was able to find out that the equivalent to the Stinger SP1000 is the Odyssey PC1200MJT.
I found the cheapest price at BatteryMart.com for $145 for the battery and ground shipping is $14 to us. not bad for $160.
Ben
Stinger makes good batteries to help with the voltage drop.
Optima batteries would help you out to.
Well doing more searching i was able to find out that the equivalent to the Stinger SP1000 is the Odyssey PC1200MJT.
I found the cheapest price at BatteryMart.com for $145 for the battery and ground shipping is $14 to us. not bad for $160.
Ben
I'de assume you need A. a bigger alternator or B. another one............I have an alternator that I load tested to 188 amps in my blazer with a A18001DT sub amp and my two seaker amps.....and with system all the way up all lights,heater, and defroster on im just starting to pull into the 13 volt range BUT before I installed the new ALT. I was driving around in the 11-10V range.........Also Hows the alt installed on yours as in what size wire are you running from alt to batt. Im using 4 GA (need bigger) and 4GA groun right off the battery along with the factory ground
hi i have another question i posted earlier that my voltage drops alot and someone told me to ground strap motor which im in the process of doing right now another question is i have 3 yellow top optimas in the system right now 1 under hood and 2 in the back wondering if i ground strap the motor and add yet another battery so it makes 4 in the system would it help me out any or make my problem worse by adding another battery
The batteries will not provide any significant current until the charging system voltage drops to below ~12v. Whenever the voltage is above ~12.5v, the batteries are a load on the alternator.
Your only real option is to get a second alternator or replace the alternator you have. To keep the system voltage at ~13.8v at full power (assuming the amplifiers can produce their rated power), you'll need ~500-600 amps of current. If you drive the amps into clipping, you'll need even more current if you don't want the voltage to drop.
Your only real option is to get a second alternator or replace the alternator you have. To keep the system voltage at ~13.8v at full power (assuming the amplifiers can produce their rated power), you'll need ~500-600 amps of current. If you drive the amps into clipping, you'll need even more current if you don't want the voltage to drop.
As I like to say what good is 4 batteries with an alternator that cant keep up with the current demands....
Perry...My amp has a clipping meter on it my question is would it clipp more at 12V as oppossed to 14V? The amps power is rated at 12.5V and using ohms law it claims my amp puts out 2073.6 watts at 1 ohm pulling a load of 144 amps but its says it "clipps at about half way up. my woofers only handle 1400 between the two but they still havent blown?
Perry...My amp has a clipping meter on it my question is would it clipp more at 12V as oppossed to 14V? The amps power is rated at 12.5V and using ohms law it claims my amp puts out 2073.6 watts at 1 ohm pulling a load of 144 amps but its says it "clipps at about half way up. my woofers only handle 1400 between the two but they still havent blown?
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