I've built plenty of subwoofer boxes before but this is my first stab at midrange. I'm a bit confused as what I should use enclosure wise:
This is what I'm using a Vifa MG10MD09 a 4 ohm, 4 inch midrange driver. http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?cart_id=3080456.6182&pid=1367
My application- MIDRANGE driver, 180 Hz- 3.15K active xover 24 dB/oct slope.
Tweeters- Vifa "ring radiator style" from 3.15K up
Midbass - 8" Silverflute woofers. 180 Hz down.
Should I
A) Build a sealed enclosure, if so what size?
B) Should I simply leave it the way it is now, sharing a common airspace with the Silverflute 8" mids. Help!
This is what I'm using a Vifa MG10MD09 a 4 ohm, 4 inch midrange driver. http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?cart_id=3080456.6182&pid=1367
My application- MIDRANGE driver, 180 Hz- 3.15K active xover 24 dB/oct slope.
Tweeters- Vifa "ring radiator style" from 3.15K up
Midbass - 8" Silverflute woofers. 180 Hz down.
Should I
A) Build a sealed enclosure, if so what size?
B) Should I simply leave it the way it is now, sharing a common airspace with the Silverflute 8" mids. Help!
Definitely build a separate enclosure for the mid. This serves two purposes. (A) it stops the frequencies from the bass unit coming out through the mid cone. It stops the bass modulating the mid cone and allows the Vifa to concentrate on the mids. (B) a separate mid enclosure will allow the bass unit to function as intended. If you don't separate it from the bass unit the mid will act as a small "Drone cone" or auxilary bass radiator to give it its proper name and this will alter what ever type of bass loading you had planned. As to the size.....well anything around 2-3 litres should be good. It won't be too critical. Now there are some general guide lines to help reproduction. (i) Assymetrical enclosures are good in that if you avoid parrallel sides you get less standing waves in the enclosure and this should make the mids clearer. (ii) make the box thick enough to prevent bass frequencies getting through. Put some sort of fibre in it. ie BAF etc. Now I have found a cheap and simple solution is to use terra cotta flower pots. These come in a variety of sizes, are acoustically "dead", are readily available and already have a hole for the leads/connecting wires. Saves a lot of time. See your local garden supplier. You have to then ensure that ou can attach it to the back of the baffle but there are various ways you can work that out. If you are doing detailed and accurate calculation for the bass unit you need to deduct the volume of any mid range enclosure from the box size to make sure you ave the right volume for the bass driver.
Sound like a really good system...hope it works well.
Sound like a really good system...hope it works well.
Jonathan Bright said:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Makes sense. I'll spill the beans this is actually my car stereo setup. The doors right now are the "enclosures". The picture is a very early shot when I first did the install 2 years ago. I'm considering also making enclosures for the woofers, but that may be hard to do with the window mechanisms etc. The midrange should be easier since the enclosures don't need to be that big. If I do the woofer I want it to be .5 cubic foot (14 L).
The issue I'm having right now is the system sounds great, but there's always room for improvement. I'm getting a rather large (10 dB) spike at 1 Khz I have to EQ out. I'm hoping this is cause the midrange is not enclosed right now. With an enclosure this should clean up the midrange and bass.
MaxS said:
I clicked on all the links and nothing happened and I can't read french. What does that site do?
Clipped said:
Thanks, the pic is an early one I had conveniently hosted already. That pic was before I sealed the doors, replaced that access cover with a sheet of braced MDF and before I treated the MDF with Spar Polyurethane.n The damn door still rattles though and its high passed at 60 Hz for the sub which is in the rear of the car.
Curious though, I think one of the reasons my midrange had a spike at 1000 Hz was cause the "enclosure" (hard to describe) I had was too closed off in the back. I'm going to open up the rear and see what it does before building the enclosure. If it sounds good I might just say screw the enclosure :lol:
i made some door enclosures from 6" pvc elbow joints once , cut to the proper angle...it had a peak around the same freq as you.
since the pvc has a similar pitch to 1000hz when i tapped it, i took silicone and lined the entire interior with it, took off the back and laid aluminium tape across the back and siliconed over it.
i submerged one of those metal straps with holes into the backside with the silicone and epoxied it to the sides (on the inside)to allow for easy mounting,
something similar to a aperiodic membrane, ringing went away with silicone.
since the pvc has a similar pitch to 1000hz when i tapped it, i took silicone and lined the entire interior with it, took off the back and laid aluminium tape across the back and siliconed over it.
i submerged one of those metal straps with holes into the backside with the silicone and epoxied it to the sides (on the inside)to allow for easy mounting,
something similar to a aperiodic membrane, ringing went away with silicone.
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