I am new to setting up systems but i am almost therebut there is no sound coming from the subs. i have the amp on and the rca in and everything. Just no sound... speaker wires i think are correct and my amp settings are on mono and i connected the speaker wires on bridged setting. Can someone help me out?
HI
Usually amplifiers have 2 status LED (small lights). One is "power" , the other is "protect" . If the protect light doesn´t go out when you power up the system, there might be a short in between the speaker wires, the subwoofer itself or the amplifier is damaged.
If the protect light goes off and the power light turns on after you power up the system, the amplifier should be working fine.
if your amplifier doesn´t turn on at all, check the fuse(s) . get a voltmeter and check the +12V and the GND connector. You should always get something around 13-14V. Turn on your radio, now check the remote and the GND connector (amplifier) , again there should be something around 13V.
Do you have a headunit (car stereo) that has an extra "subwoofer out" RCA connector ? If so, many headunits have a seperate volume control for that output (read the manual to find that). If you are not sure, try another pair of RCA outputs from your headunit.
Also check the amplifier settings, like gain control and the filter settings(low-pass and bassboost if your amplifier provides those)
It could also be, that you have used the wrong speaker terminals to bridge the subwoofer or the amplifier speaker terminals are not labeled correctly . Try to wire the woofer in normal mode (stereo) .
Usually amplifiers have 2 status LED (small lights). One is "power" , the other is "protect" . If the protect light doesn´t go out when you power up the system, there might be a short in between the speaker wires, the subwoofer itself or the amplifier is damaged.
If the protect light goes off and the power light turns on after you power up the system, the amplifier should be working fine.
if your amplifier doesn´t turn on at all, check the fuse(s) . get a voltmeter and check the +12V and the GND connector. You should always get something around 13-14V. Turn on your radio, now check the remote and the GND connector (amplifier) , again there should be something around 13V.
Do you have a headunit (car stereo) that has an extra "subwoofer out" RCA connector ? If so, many headunits have a seperate volume control for that output (read the manual to find that). If you are not sure, try another pair of RCA outputs from your headunit.
Also check the amplifier settings, like gain control and the filter settings(low-pass and bassboost if your amplifier provides those)
It could also be, that you have used the wrong speaker terminals to bridge the subwoofer or the amplifier speaker terminals are not labeled correctly . Try to wire the woofer in normal mode (stereo) .
Okay, i got the sub to work, but now i have an amp problem. I was able to get the sub to transmit the signal but after 10 mins of music, the amp power led started to flicker and shut off my deck. while the led was left on and flickering. what can be the problem? like it was dimming then brightening up
What size cable are you using to power your amp. I recently got a barrage of phone calls from a lad I sold an amp to telling me it didn't work and he wanted his money back.
I told him to come round my house so I could take a look. He had tried to use 10 gauge cable and a 30amp blade fuse to power two amps that needed over 50amps in total.
The amps would work at low volume but cut out when they where turned up and the power LED would flicker. This was because the wire and fuse block had gotten so hot the terminals had come away from the fuse and the resistance from battery to amp was stupidly high.
The fuse never blew with the load it just over heated and melted the fuse holder and the caps in the amps would charge up with this dodgy power supply and allow the amps to run at low volume levels.
I changed the fuse block and cable and everything was fine. I have to thank him though because his lack of electrical knowledge alowed me to buy what at the time was thought to be a broken amp out of his car before he installed mine for £5 which I sold on ebay for £80. Cheers mate.
I told him to come round my house so I could take a look. He had tried to use 10 gauge cable and a 30amp blade fuse to power two amps that needed over 50amps in total.
The amps would work at low volume but cut out when they where turned up and the power LED would flicker. This was because the wire and fuse block had gotten so hot the terminals had come away from the fuse and the resistance from battery to amp was stupidly high.
The fuse never blew with the load it just over heated and melted the fuse holder and the caps in the amps would charge up with this dodgy power supply and allow the amps to run at low volume levels.
I changed the fuse block and cable and everything was fine. I have to thank him though because his lack of electrical knowledge alowed me to buy what at the time was thought to be a broken amp out of his car before he installed mine for £5 which I sold on ebay for £80. Cheers mate.
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