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PPI amp (power precision) blew out
PPI amp (power precision) blew out
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Old 4th February 2005, 03:22 AM   #31
gearheaddruid is offline gearheaddruid  United States
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Default The voltages on the mosfets.

Hi, If I read that correctly, you are measuring 12 volts on the source (middle pin), 12 volts on the gate (left pin looking at top with pins aimed down). Those are blown mosfets! 12 volts on the gate would have them turned on hard. The thing should be drawing a lot of current.
I wold replace the burnt pair of outputs, the power supply mosfets, and check the driver transistors. Then, I would use a current limited power supply to test it. If you missed something, limited current will keep you from frying everything again. If you do not have a current limited supply, try putting an old headlamp in series with the power lead. If something is wrong, the headlight will be bright and should save an expensive smoke show! Regards, Steve
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Old 9th February 2005, 06:51 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally posted by profuse007
that TS1 line, it reads 12volt on my DMM. hows that a diode into it? still confuse.

for now, if the chips are screwed up i really dont know how to test it. i havent test.

i need to know the order of how to test the power switch thingy...... i am confuse.

do i need to worry about the PWM at this time of testing?

can someone pointl out to me what are those chips exactly is.

i know this seems frustrated to yall, am still learning.
Any luck with the reanimation?
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Old 10th February 2005, 04:09 AM   #33
profuse007 is offline profuse007  United States
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ill keep yall posted, been busy.
i dnt have a scope, only a DMM w/ most of the functions.

okay tested again and got confuse w/ what yall said. the last pin is the source right? cause that last pin is grounded w/ .1 ohm. again, the first two pin has 12v on all 10 mosfets w/ remote on and off.

plz confirm that those chips are burnt

IRF234 IR8923 5s 3n. if burnt, then i need the z44 type thats comparable to mine, how much?
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Old 10th February 2005, 04:42 AM   #34
profuse007 is offline profuse007  United States
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for now, i dont care about signals right now, am just looking at the power switch source. what are the things i should be concerning besides replacing the mosfets?

[quote]the other side of the wall, they seems to be some some sort of transistor looking but testing it, the 1&3 has ~.5V constant.

2N6490 8915 by motorola are the 1st five chip from the left and the following chips has the similar numerical designation.
Quote:

Again, I think these parts are obsolete, but can be replaced with 2N6492 and 2N6488's. You'll have to look at the data sheets for those parts, but if I can recall correctly, the formers are PNP's. You may be able to get by with just replacing the outputs, but sometimes, you may also have to look at the drivers for the outputs, as they may have gotten fried too. But if only one output is shorted, you may only really need to replace that one. R55 is a ballast resistor, and I agree, it should be replaced.
the quote in bold, are you talkin about the physical drivers like subwoofers?

oooooppsss... its IRFZ34 IR8923 5s 3n (not IRF234)
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Old 10th February 2005, 05:18 AM   #35
EnvisionAudio is offline EnvisionAudio  United States
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Quote:
the quote in bold, are you talkin about the physical drivers like subwoofers?
No, driver transistors. They are connected to the output transistors and are located in close proximity to them. There are two per channel (I think). These will sometimes die if the outputs are blown.


Quote:
oooooppsss... its IRFZ34 IR8923 5s 3n (not IRF234)
IRFZ34 can be replaced with IRFZ44N - and I recommend it for better durability. Digikey and Mouser both carry this part.
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Old 10th February 2005, 05:32 AM   #36
profuse007 is offline profuse007  United States
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will i need anything else besides the mosfet to get the power turn on?

almost forget, i need to find that TS1.

so, imma log onto mouser.com order some.

btw, do i need to find the specs for the mosfet i have right now or just go ahead and order the z44?

am lookin at the TO-220AB type, whats the specific character to that?
should it matter? all i nkow that it looks similar to mine.

btw, the exisint IRFz34 is 55v and 26A. which z44 is suitable?

digikey.com, is it only sold in bulk?
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Old 10th February 2005, 05:23 PM   #37
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Quote:
switchers: IRfz34
________: 2n6487 and 2n6490

^^dont know what it is
64xx's are bipolar outputs. Don't really have time to input more, right now, but later I will help if others haven't.
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Old 10th February 2005, 05:37 PM   #38
EnvisionAudio is offline EnvisionAudio  United States
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Quote:
btw, do i need to find the specs for the mosfet i have right now or just go ahead and order the z44?
From those of us that have extensive car amp repair experience, please just take our word for it.

Anyway, the IRFZ44 is what you want. It comes in a TO-220(AB) case and has a metal tab. Don't get the IRFIZ44, which is an insulated tab transistor. They can't dissipate instantaneous heat as well in pulse applications.

IRFZ44 from Mouser

Do you still have TS1? Just reinstall it.
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Old 10th February 2005, 11:53 PM   #39
profuse007 is offline profuse007  United States
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koo i will order 15 of the IRFZ44(ab) w/ the tab tonite.

anything else i should aware b4 ordering?

what type of resistor is that at the right bottom hand corner?
it has .22ohm +/-5. red red silver---gold

can someone link me to the mouser?
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Old 11th February 2005, 05:31 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally posted by EnvisionAudio


From those of us that have extensive car amp repair experience, please just take our word for it.

Anyway, the IRFZ44 is what you want. It comes in a TO-220(AB) case and has a metal tab. Don't get the IRFIZ44, which is an insulated tab transistor. They can't dissipate instantaneous heat as well in pulse applications.

IRFZ44 from Mouser

Do you still have TS1? Just reinstall it.

Quote:
Originally posted by profuse007
koo i will order 15 of the IRFZ44(ab) w/ the tab tonite.

anything else i should aware b4 ordering?

what type of resistor is that at the right bottom hand corner?
it has .22ohm +/-5. red red silver---gold

can someone link me to the mouser?
Don't forget that you need to replace all of the gate resistors with 22 ohmers.

http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?hand...oductID=226013

The .22 ohm resistor is 2W.

http://www.mouser.com/?Ne=100&handle...er%7c%7cSField

This won't look the same, but it is the same thing.
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