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Old 15th May 2021, 03:57 PM   #31
jtap is offline jtap  United States
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These resistors in the pre-driver for all channels all measure the same. 7.5k ohms. The schematic shows 15k. The colour bands looks to me like they are brown, green, orange, gold, which seems like it should be 15k ohm (+- 5%) and that would match the schematic. R317, R321, R322, R318, R319, R323, R324 & R320. Is this as weird as it seems and for them all to be that way makes it seem like there isn't an issue. Should I desolder one of them to test it out of circuit?
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Old 15th May 2021, 04:31 PM   #32
Perry Babin is offline Perry Babin  United States
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I don't expect there to be a problem anywhere other than the components between the drivers and the output transistors.

You might try installing the outputs from one of the good channels into the bad channel to see if the problem remains in the bad channel.

Do the same for the driver transistors if the outputs do nothing.
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Old 15th May 2021, 06:58 PM   #33
jtap is offline jtap  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry Babin View Post
I don't expect there to be a problem anywhere other than the components between the drivers and the output transistors.

You might try installing the outputs from one of the good channels into the bad channel to see if the problem remains in the bad channel.

Do the same for the driver transistors if the outputs do nothing.
I moved Q330, Q314 and Q326 over to Q332, Q316 and Q328's spots. When I touched the b+ lead to power I heard that little sizzle sound, so I stopped. Any idea what could be making that sound or what components, if any, are capable of that? I checked that all the legs of stuff under the board were shorter than all the plastic standoffs, so I don't think it's arcing to the heatsink.

I thought about taking Q330, Q314 and Q326 back out of the broken channel and putting the ones from the broken channel (Q332, Q316 and Q328) into Q330, Q314 and Q326's spot to confirm that channel works with them in there, if you think that's worth it.

What ones precisely do you mean by "driver transistors"? Sorry, I don't know for sure which those are and I don't want to guess wrong. My guess would be Q316 and Q314 and since I swapped those as well as took them out and put them in the transistor tester and they measured similarly as NPNs, I am thinking they are fine.

If resistors don't sizzle, I was thinking is that more likely to be a capacitor or one of these other Q numbered components? At this point I was just trying to decide which components to desolder and test out of circuit first.

Last edited by jtap; 15th May 2021 at 07:25 PM.
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Old 15th May 2021, 08:00 PM   #34
Perry Babin is offline Perry Babin  United States
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Did it blow the 10 amp fuse when you attempted to power it up?

The driver transistors are the D-shaped (TO-92) transistors near the center of the board.
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Old 15th May 2021, 08:31 PM   #35
jtap is offline jtap  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry Babin View Post
Did it blow the 10 amp fuse when you attempted to power it up?

The driver transistors are the D-shaped (TO-92) transistors near the center of the board.
No, it did not blow the fuse. The crackling just kind of scares me since it doesn't do that when that messed up channel had no output transistors in it. I certainly didn't want to break any more components. The power LED was back to flashing also.

Ok. I pulled out some of the driver transistors back on the 12th. I pulled Q312 & Q310 (they say C2705 on them) and Q308 & Q306 which are 2SA1145 in the book and show A1145 on them. Are only the C2705s driver transistors or the A1134s are also?
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