PPI pro mos 450 pulses when powering on - Page 4

GEM 592 · 1st December 2020, 08:03 AM

I wonder if putting foam strip on the tabs would do more harm than good.

The thermal tape is non-adhesive. Perhaps compound under it would help.

Thank you for your help.

Perry Babin · 1st December 2020, 08:05 AM

You definitely need compound on the top and bottom of the tape if it's non-adhesive.

GEM 592 · 1st December 2020, 09:39 AM

OK I straightened a few bent tabs, added heavy compound below tape, added heavy compound on each device, straightened all devices to lay flat (just pushing each with my finger they stick down flat and stay), torqued down back panel very well. Ready to test again.

Perry Babin · 1st December 2020, 10:12 AM

When you test, use a current limiter or a 10 amp fuse. It may save parts if there is still a problem.

GEM 592 · 1st December 2020, 10:17 AM

Like 3 or 4 songs in, sink is warming up little. Never played this long at least, so if it fails again I probably just need to go back and improve the heat sink mating more. I think it is really really good now though.

Thank you very much Perry for your help, knowledge, and patience.

GEM 592 · 1st December 2020, 01:08 PM

I've been rechecking the clamp screws when it warms up.

It seems like it is repaired. Sounds very very good, better than I was expecting honestly.

I don't suppose anyone has a solution for the speaker output plug problem. I remember seeing somebody did a custom deal.

Perry Babin · 1st December 2020, 03:25 PM

The spacing is a bit odd.

I know this probably isn't what you want but I'd remove and keep the terminal in case you find a mate for it.

Some people solder wires to the board and go out a few inches to a screw-type terminal strip. Something even easier, go out a couple of inches to male/female push-on connectors.

These aren't fancy but they do no harm, either.

1st December 2020, 08:03 AM	#31
GEM 592 diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Phoenix, Arizona	I wonder if putting foam strip on the tabs would do more harm than good. The thermal tape is non-adhesive. Perhaps compound under it would help. Thank you for your help. __________________ DMM (Fluke 115), good power supply (100 A, 12 to 16.5 V), soldering irons and skills.

1st December 2020, 08:05 AM	#32
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	You definitely need compound on the top and bottom of the tape if it's non-adhesive. __________________ Anyone who purchased the repair tutorial, email me (babin_perry@yahoo.com) if you want to download the latest version.

1st December 2020, 09:39 AM	#33
GEM 592 diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Phoenix, Arizona	OK I straightened a few bent tabs, added heavy compound below tape, added heavy compound on each device, straightened all devices to lay flat (just pushing each with my finger they stick down flat and stay), torqued down back panel very well. Ready to test again. __________________ DMM (Fluke 115), good power supply (100 A, 12 to 16.5 V), soldering irons and skills.

1st December 2020, 10:12 AM	#34
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	When you test, use a current limiter or a 10 amp fuse. It may save parts if there is still a problem. __________________ Anyone who purchased the repair tutorial, email me (babin_perry@yahoo.com) if you want to download the latest version.

1st December 2020, 10:17 AM	#35
GEM 592 diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Phoenix, Arizona	Like 3 or 4 songs in, sink is warming up little. Never played this long at least, so if it fails again I probably just need to go back and improve the heat sink mating more. I think it is really really good now though. Thank you very much Perry for your help, knowledge, and patience. __________________ DMM (Fluke 115), good power supply (100 A, 12 to 16.5 V), soldering irons and skills.


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1st December 2020, 01:08 PM	#36
GEM 592 diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Phoenix, Arizona	I've been rechecking the clamp screws when it warms up. It seems like it is repaired. Sounds very very good, better than I was expecting honestly. I don't suppose anyone has a solution for the speaker output plug problem. I remember seeing somebody did a custom deal. __________________ DMM (Fluke 115), good power supply (100 A, 12 to 16.5 V), soldering irons and skills.

1st December 2020, 03:25 PM	#37
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	The spacing is a bit odd. I know this probably isn't what you want but I'd remove and keep the terminal in case you find a mate for it. Some people solder wires to the board and go out a few inches to a screw-type terminal strip. Something even easier, go out a couple of inches to male/female push-on connectors. These aren't fancy but they do no harm, either. __________________ Anyone who purchased the repair tutorial, email me (babin_perry@yahoo.com) if you want to download the latest version.

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