|
Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | diyAudio Store | Blogs | Gallery | Wiki | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Mark Forums Read |
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
![]() |
|
Thread Tools |
![]() |
#11 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2020
|
I'm going to replace the tc4427 with the ucc drivers and see if that solves the issue
|
![]() |
![]() |
#12 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Georgia
|
Your undervolt circuit it located in the circled area.
I have previously post good voltages for that circuit. You can bypass the protection for undervolt at the PIC16 IC. I have posted about about how to do that as well. I haven’t seen one of these amps build full rail and then shut down. But when that happens, does the rail voltage coming out of the power supply sag significantly or is there a spike in the current draw from your power supply just before the shutdown. This could indicate something is shorted or damaged in the output section of the amp. If you don’t spot any anomalies then the problem is most likely the undervolt circuit. I would bypass the protection first to see if the amp will boot up and stay operational. Then you’ll know if the problem is in the undervolt circuit without a doubt. |
![]() |
![]() |
#13 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2020
|
I have removed R127 and bridged pin 8 and 14 on the pic, still getting the undervoltage fault
|
![]() |
![]() |
#14 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
|
I think that's going the wrong way. When there is sufficient voltage, The 7.5v Zener conducts, pulling the base of Q23 up which drives its collector to ground.
I'm using your R127 and pin 8 as a key but the diagram I have is for a different model.
__________________
Anyone who purchased the repair tutorial, email me (babin_perry@yahoo.com) if you want to download the latest version. |
![]() |
![]() |
#15 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2020
|
Does the pic handle just the power supply and protection circuits or does it do both ps and output?
|
![]() |
![]() |
#16 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
|
I was wrong about pin 8/14. I'm used to seeing pin 14 as the +supply on logic ICs. You had it right.
I'm not sure that the PIC is the same in my notes as you have. What's the PIC number in your amp?
__________________
Anyone who purchased the repair tutorial, email me (babin_perry@yahoo.com) if you want to download the latest version. |
![]() |
![]() |
#17 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Georgia
|
The PIC is the heart of the amplifier. It does the power up self check, it sends out the pulses to the power supply driver ICs it handles all fault codes.
Grounding pin 8 should have eliminated that fault code. The amp will do one of two things. It will boot up and run or it will give you a different fault code which will most likely be the underlying fault. I’ve had to do this a few times to discover what the real fault was. Double check your work to make sure that pin 8 is grounded. If no mistake was found then you can be fairly certain that your problem is not an undervolt at this point, but rather something in the output section could be triggering the fault. Have you checked the rail voltages to see if they sag quickly? Amp draw spike? Can you get a glimpse of the drive signal in the output section? Is the drive going all the way back to ground? Do you have equal voltage on you speaker terminals as referenced to ground? Each one should have half the rail voltage on them and should be even within a volt or two. In these Amps like this that I’ve dealt with that give a false undervolt is a sometimes a leaky transistor, mosfet, or the current sensing ICs located close the output mosfets. They look like tiny 5 legged ICs but only 2 sometimes 3 of the legs are utilized. Since yours is faulting after rail voltage has built I would look at the output transistors and the current sensing ICs closely. Make sure that the insulators are in good shape. Pull the board from the heat sink and make sure that you don’t have some foreign conductive object floating around. Sometimes just a little piece of speaker wire in the wrong place can do this. You may have to pull the output transistors from the board and test them individually. |
![]() |
![]() |
#18 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2020
|
Ok so amp is now stripped out and in the process of being stripped to test individual components. will post up results soon
|
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
stetsom 2k6 d | megael9 | Car Audio | 1 | 30th January 2012 05:35 PM |
stetsom 14k2 e | megael9 | Car Audio | 7 | 1st November 2011 04:10 AM |
stetsom 14k5 | megael9 | Car Audio | 4 | 12th August 2011 02:19 AM |
stetsom 1k5 h | megael9 | Car Audio | 8 | 26th July 2011 02:03 AM |
stetsom | megael9 | Car Audio | 27 | 5th July 2011 12:40 AM |
New To Site? | Need Help? |