A/D/S power plate 80 and 100

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With some amps, applying both B+ and remote together can cause problems. If it doesn't with this amp, it's OK.

For the negative diode, move the end that goes to the transformer to the same transformer winding as the positive diode. Does that give you both positive and negative voltage on the caps?

Are there any broken wires or solder connections on the transformer windings?
 
Well it did get me thinking that caps might be a thing by removing the ground. I will reconfigure the setup for turning it on.

Still not reconfigured though, yes that give me 33v both pos and neg with reference of negative test lead on the caps.

I cant see anything on the transformer that indicates open circuit or anything.
 
This seems like we are getting closer. Hope its not the transformer, those probably arent easy to find.

I did heat them all and nothing obvious changed. Retouched the solder connections and no change there either. Next step is to pull it from the board and test on the bench for resistance then, I assume?
 
This is confusing. The bridge rectifier, if intact, was pulling from both windings but never produced the positive rail. The individual diodes will produce both rails if pulling from one winding but not from the other, even though both windings have the same waveform.

Do you have a 120v incandescent (not CFL, not LED) lamp (lower power would be better)?
 
Right?? Very confusing and likely my fault for not getting all of this. Of note, not on all tests until recently have I been screwing the PS transistors to the heat sink. So maybe that matters?

I do have a 120vac 25w incandescent bulb here that I used earlier.

Maybe since I have all three wires disconnected from the PS to audio board, I might try installing the OG rectifier and testing with both transistors screwed down? If them being screwed down is the issue, I feel like a total idiot.
 
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