Hmm, ok well that may be the issue then? Closest I have to a rectifier is a handful of single diodes. I dont think they are even rated this high either. It didnt appear the original was replaced, but who knows. It did match the one in the other amp too, for reference statement. That said, both amps came from the same person, so who knows.
Ordering from mouser or digikey will be easier.
I don't think the 4001 will hold up. It's only a 50v diodes but you could try it. One end on the AC and the other end (striped end) on the positive. Power up for just a few seconds to see if you get positive voltage on the rail cap.
To answer your other question, you need a 100v or greater rectifier with a reverse recovery time (Trr) of about 35ns. If the threaded locations near the power supply transistors are unused, I'd recommend the MUR1620CT and the MUR1620CTR. You'll need other bits and pieces as well (to be covered later).
I don't think the 4001 will hold up. It's only a 50v diodes but you could try it. One end on the AC and the other end (striped end) on the positive. Power up for just a few seconds to see if you get positive voltage on the rail cap.
To answer your other question, you need a 100v or greater rectifier with a reverse recovery time (Trr) of about 35ns. If the threaded locations near the power supply transistors are unused, I'd recommend the MUR1620CT and the MUR1620CTR. You'll need other bits and pieces as well (to be covered later).
Ok cool, thanks again! I really appreciate the help. I will do some digging and order something up. Rather not accidentally cook something I couldnt even implement anyway.
I will search for something proper that can handle it. Thanks for the part numbers! I want to try and find something with the same package style so it all fits correctly. Its screwed down onto a heat sink, so I think that might be important.
I will search for something proper that can handle it. Thanks for the part numbers! I want to try and find something with the same package style so it all fits correctly. Its screwed down onto a heat sink, so I think that might be important.
I believe I tested both caps by pulling them and testing resistance and they seemed ok. I can test again though.
You mean just assemble the 1n4001s in the same configuration as what is shown in the schematic?
The heat sink is a cast part of the amp body. The hole in the rectifier is about 4mm I think.
You mean just assemble the 1n4001s in the same configuration as what is shown in the schematic?
The heat sink is a cast part of the amp body. The hole in the rectifier is about 4mm I think.
The following image shows the rectifiers that you will mount in those locations.
Do you have insulators, shoulder washers, 3mm screws to mount them?
One transformer winding will go to terminal 1 of each rectifier. The other transformer winding will go to terminal 3 of each one.
Don't order yet.
For now, I simply want you to install one of the 1N4001 rectifiers to see if it will build positive rail voltage.
Do you have insulators, shoulder washers, 3mm screws to mount them?
One transformer winding will go to terminal 1 of each rectifier. The other transformer winding will go to terminal 3 of each one.
Don't order yet.
For now, I simply want you to install one of the 1N4001 rectifiers to see if it will build positive rail voltage.
Attachments
The ones in the image I do not have. I have the B289s and the 1n4001s. Obviously the package shape of the 1m4001s wont allow for any sort of screwing down for heat dissipation. I can steal the screws with washers and insulators from the other amp as its very much the same construction, just more bits.
I can put the 1n4001 diodes in the configuration of the image though if thats what you mean.
I can put the 1n4001 diodes in the configuration of the image though if thats what you mean.
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