Sorry I know this has probably been debated several times, I just had some specific questions.
1. I've heard many times that value wise, raw diy drivers such as the ones off of parts express are far better in value than car audio specific drivers when it comes to audio quality. I'm planning to upgrade the sound system in my car, and I'm looking for 6.5" component speakers to replace the stock ones. I've heard Morel makes decent component car speakers so I was considering the Maximo 6s: Morel Maximo 6 Maximo Series 6-1/2" component speaker system at Crutchfield
Would something like a Dayton audio woofer such as: Dayton Audio RS150-4 6" Reference Woofer 4 Ohm and a matching tweeter be of much better value when it comes to sound quality?
I understand car audio specific speakers are more durable, but I don't drive a Jeep or anything so it's not like they are going to be exposed to the elements much. Is there any other reason people buy car audio specific drivers instead? What would you guys do?
2. I've been wondering the same thing about these car amplifiers. You can get chip amps like this one: Sure Electronics AA-AB34181 6x100W TDA7498 Class-D Amplifier Board
But for a "car specific" amplifier that's enclosed with the same output capacity and all you have to spend atleast three times the amount it seems. Why? I know the boards run on a higher voltage but you can just use a 12v to 36v step up to power it, right? So why are car specific amps so much more expensive?
1. I've heard many times that value wise, raw diy drivers such as the ones off of parts express are far better in value than car audio specific drivers when it comes to audio quality. I'm planning to upgrade the sound system in my car, and I'm looking for 6.5" component speakers to replace the stock ones. I've heard Morel makes decent component car speakers so I was considering the Maximo 6s: Morel Maximo 6 Maximo Series 6-1/2" component speaker system at Crutchfield
Would something like a Dayton audio woofer such as: Dayton Audio RS150-4 6" Reference Woofer 4 Ohm and a matching tweeter be of much better value when it comes to sound quality?
I understand car audio specific speakers are more durable, but I don't drive a Jeep or anything so it's not like they are going to be exposed to the elements much. Is there any other reason people buy car audio specific drivers instead? What would you guys do?
2. I've been wondering the same thing about these car amplifiers. You can get chip amps like this one: Sure Electronics AA-AB34181 6x100W TDA7498 Class-D Amplifier Board
But for a "car specific" amplifier that's enclosed with the same output capacity and all you have to spend atleast three times the amount it seems. Why? I know the boards run on a higher voltage but you can just use a 12v to 36v step up to power it, right? So why are car specific amps so much more expensive?
Woofers for cars are made to work in small enclosures.
Amplifiers like that one probably don't have a noise-cancelling input so you will likely have engine noise issues. You can get around it with something like a ground loop isolator but that adds to the cost.
The amp has no switching power supply so don't expect 100w/ch if you use it off of a 12v supply.
An isolated PS could eliminate the noise issue but again, it's an added expense.
Amplifiers like that one probably don't have a noise-cancelling input so you will likely have engine noise issues. You can get around it with something like a ground loop isolator but that adds to the cost.
The amp has no switching power supply so don't expect 100w/ch if you use it off of a 12v supply.
An isolated PS could eliminate the noise issue but again, it's an added expense.
So it's not like raw drivers offer better value? I wasn't aware of the noise cancelling inputs in amplifiers; how does that work? I assumed it was just a basic amplifier, just like a home audio amp. I know the amp doesn't have a switching power supply but I was thinking I could use one of those voltage step up chips to go from 12v-36 so I can run it at 100w/channel.
You have to have a power supply that can deliver over 500 w. You can't get that from an IC. If you could, the amp manufacturer wouldn't use expensive transformers.
If the raw woofers are made to work well in a car (relatively small enclosures) and can survive the humidity, heat and cold they may serve you well. Read the reviews on parts express.
The input of a car amp has to isolate the shield ground from chassis ground. They can do this in several ways, a balanced input or an isolated secondary on the power supply are the most common.
If the raw woofers are made to work well in a car (relatively small enclosures) and can survive the humidity, heat and cold they may serve you well. Read the reviews on parts express.
The input of a car amp has to isolate the shield ground from chassis ground. They can do this in several ways, a balanced input or an isolated secondary on the power supply are the most common.
Oh I see, so just the hissing from not grounding it properly? What causes this in a car? I've used chip amps for home audio projects and have never had any static or hissing.
Got it. I'm still stuck between choosing raw drivers or car audio drivers. Drivers on parts express seem to say a certain driver is good for car audio, but so do the reviews for the morels I was looking at, I just don't know what would be a better choice.
I would recommend to go with a set of midlevel component speakers which come with a silk-dome tweeter as a starting point from one of the reputable manufacturers. Raw drivers from parts express are more for people who have a tad of experience already in what types of driver and tweeter materials they like to hear from, not to mention reading and designing for the parameters, and want to take a chance on designing and making their own cabinets, and making their own crossover. Those raw drivers also are meant to be clone, drop in replacements to legacy speakers in some cases. Last time I looked, parts express car audio options were pretty limited, and some seemed pretty expensive for what their specs were.
So I'm guessing the Morels I was looking at fall in that category? I do have some experience with building my own enclosures, but that doesn't mean I'm any good at it>
mostly looking for a set of drop ins without much modding to my door.I haven't listened to Morel, and can't make an actual recommendation, but their material for the tweeter is textile (which should be similar to silk) and for the woofer is treated paper - as long as they can stay 'easy on the ears' (ie. no blaring and no harshness) without having their output characteristic change at loud volumes, and sound similar to the original recording being played, you probably will be happy with them. The base level line from most of the manufacturers seems very competitive these days - lots of reviewers seem to be quite happy the sound output. Usually going up the model line results in more 'depth' of sound, better separation (as perceived), better clarity, being able to stay accurate when played loud, but for most people there is a plateau point of not hearing any difference. Some manufacturers like JL Audio, know they got the 'it' sound (accurate to recording and natural) figured out, and they never change their recipe and rather just raise the price each year. Speakers are most important - try to get a shop to listen to them before purchase. Hope this helps.
As already mentioned, the biggest issues in auto environment are temperature extremes, and humidity. If mounted in dash or rear deck, there is UV exposure as well. These extremes are far beyond what is expected in a living room.
I've used plenty of raw drivers in cars with great success. Beware of plastic baskets, trim pieces, faceplates, etc. As mentioned, you'll have to roll your own crossovers. They don't have to be too fancy, but their mounting/connections must be durable and reasonably well-insulated. It can add another element of effort if you want them done well.
Morel made some great performers in the past. I really don't know what they're making today, and those you linked look closer to standard fare than their older stuff.
If you want to experiment and feel up to it, I'd say roll your own. This is a DIY site after all, it's what we do.
I've used plenty of raw drivers in cars with great success. Beware of plastic baskets, trim pieces, faceplates, etc. As mentioned, you'll have to roll your own crossovers. They don't have to be too fancy, but their mounting/connections must be durable and reasonably well-insulated. It can add another element of effort if you want them done well.
Morel made some great performers in the past. I really don't know what they're making today, and those you linked look closer to standard fare than their older stuff.
If you want to experiment and feel up to it, I'd say roll your own. This is a DIY site after all, it's what we do.
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Yeah, I decided with going with the morels anyways because I felt like the value was better than some of the diy drivers. Plus, the 6.5 raw woofers I found needed more mounting depth than I had, and I feel like in an old Mini like mine there's a point of diminishing return because the car is just so damn loud all the time. I'm just hoping that it'll be a decent upgrade over the stock hk speakers that came with the car.
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