Good evening,
This amp (Orion HCCA25001) came in after another repair shop gave up on it. Not sure what all they did cause when it came in, not even the power supply was working...
I now have power supply working. I replaced the drivers on the output card as well as outputs and some gate resistors that failed. I also replaced all 10 regulators, and the 4 transistors that mount to the heatsink, just to be safe.
Once powered up, I get the blue protect light blinks a couple times, then comes on solid after the soft turn on click. Stays solid for a bit, one quick blink and stays solid again. Amp pulls about 1.8a of current.
With no remote I do notice there is 0.1a of draw just having it connected. Not sure if that's a thing or not. IC793 does run even when the amp is off. Soon as main power and ground is added it turns on. 5v reg for something...
I do get a wave on the gates of Q311, Q313, Q371, Q373 once the soft click happens but not on the other 4 outputs. I've never worked on one of these before, so not sure what's going on with it.
Anyone familiar with the protect light staying solid blue? with a slight quick flash once and awhile?
Thanks in advance.
This amp (Orion HCCA25001) came in after another repair shop gave up on it. Not sure what all they did cause when it came in, not even the power supply was working...
I now have power supply working. I replaced the drivers on the output card as well as outputs and some gate resistors that failed. I also replaced all 10 regulators, and the 4 transistors that mount to the heatsink, just to be safe.
Once powered up, I get the blue protect light blinks a couple times, then comes on solid after the soft turn on click. Stays solid for a bit, one quick blink and stays solid again. Amp pulls about 1.8a of current.
With no remote I do notice there is 0.1a of draw just having it connected. Not sure if that's a thing or not. IC793 does run even when the amp is off. Soon as main power and ground is added it turns on. 5v reg for something...
I do get a wave on the gates of Q311, Q313, Q371, Q373 once the soft click happens but not on the other 4 outputs. I've never worked on one of these before, so not sure what's going on with it.
Anyone familiar with the protect light staying solid blue? with a slight quick flash once and awhile?
Thanks in advance.
Attachments
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Protection /ESP Status Indicator LED: This LED lights up blue if the
amplifier goes into protection. It also will flash when the amplifier
is powering up, approximately 4-5 flashes until the turn-on delay
has expired (actual number of flashes depends on the length of
time selected via the bitwriter). Below is a description of reasons
the amplifier could engage the protection circuit. The protection
indications will self reset once the condition has been fixed. Advanced
troubleshooting can be performed using the ESP Status LED.
Short: Speaker wires pinched or shorted together or to ground
(frame of vehicle). ESP Status LED will also flash two short flashes,
followed by a long pause( approximately 8-10 seconds).
Overcurrent: Check for possible speaker issue(s) or speaker wiring
pinched in a door or other metal. Make sure speaker(s) load is
not below minimum 1Ω load. The ESP Status LED will also flash 2
short pulses, followed by a long pause.
DC Offset: This can happen if the installation inadvertently
connects the power wire to the speaker input(s). This can also
happen if the amplifier has an internal problem. The amplifier
will flash 4 short pulses, followed by a long pause, then repeat.
Undervoltage: Vehicle charging system is not supplying enough
voltage to the amplifier. This can also occur if you use too small
a gauge wire or the terminals connecting the amplifier power
to the electrical system are dirty or corroded. The ESP status LED
also will give one short flash followed by a long pause for undervoltage. This cycle will repeat.
Overvoltage: Vehicle charging system is supplying too much
voltage or over the amplifiers rated DC input. Usually this occurs
when there is a problem with the electrical system. Turn off
the headunit when jump-starting the car. The ESP Status LED
will also flash with one long flash followed by a long pause
(approximately 8-10 seconds).
amplifier goes into protection. It also will flash when the amplifier
is powering up, approximately 4-5 flashes until the turn-on delay
has expired (actual number of flashes depends on the length of
time selected via the bitwriter). Below is a description of reasons
the amplifier could engage the protection circuit. The protection
indications will self reset once the condition has been fixed. Advanced
troubleshooting can be performed using the ESP Status LED.
Short: Speaker wires pinched or shorted together or to ground
(frame of vehicle). ESP Status LED will also flash two short flashes,
followed by a long pause( approximately 8-10 seconds).
Overcurrent: Check for possible speaker issue(s) or speaker wiring
pinched in a door or other metal. Make sure speaker(s) load is
not below minimum 1Ω load. The ESP Status LED will also flash 2
short pulses, followed by a long pause.
DC Offset: This can happen if the installation inadvertently
connects the power wire to the speaker input(s). This can also
happen if the amplifier has an internal problem. The amplifier
will flash 4 short pulses, followed by a long pause, then repeat.
Undervoltage: Vehicle charging system is not supplying enough
voltage to the amplifier. This can also occur if you use too small
a gauge wire or the terminals connecting the amplifier power
to the electrical system are dirty or corroded. The ESP status LED
also will give one short flash followed by a long pause for undervoltage. This cycle will repeat.
Overvoltage: Vehicle charging system is supplying too much
voltage or over the amplifiers rated DC input. Usually this occurs
when there is a problem with the electrical system. Turn off
the headunit when jump-starting the car. The ESP Status LED
will also flash with one long flash followed by a long pause
(approximately 8-10 seconds).
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I have essentially no experience with these so If I don't help, it's not because I'm ignoring the thread.
Some of the amps of this series had problems opening the 10 ohm resistors on the output of the regulators.
The clipping behavior of some of these amps isn't as expected. I've never seen a solution.
Some of the amps of this series had problems opening the 10 ohm resistors on the output of the regulators.
The clipping behavior of some of these amps isn't as expected. I've never seen a solution.
I had one of these successfully repaired. I'm glad all of the PIC/DSP and the crazy IC's were in good condition
Check my thread here -
Orion HCCA 25001 - resurrection issues
I had to replace all of the voltage regulators and respectively all the resistors in the circuit.
Also replace ALL the gate resistors in output section. In my case 2 of them read as they should on the DMM, but the gate drive could NOT pass normally.
I don't remember anything about LED flashing.
Check my thread here -
Orion HCCA 25001 - resurrection issues
I had to replace all of the voltage regulators and respectively all the resistors in the circuit.
Also replace ALL the gate resistors in output section. In my case 2 of them read as they should on the DMM, but the gate drive could NOT pass normally.
I don't remember anything about LED flashing.
- Status
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