From what I’ve heard, the voltmeter reading changes based off the rotations of the front wheel.
Sorry if I was unclear. The amp cuts out at throttle (not high revs). Even if I barely throttle it, it goes out. But, I can sit at a light and rev and it’s fine.
Is it possible the amp or any wiring is shifting under acceleration?
Otherwise what would change, electrically speaking, when you throttle it in gear?
It would be very difficult. The amp is mounted Inside the front fairing. I have to remove most of the stuff on the front of the bike just to access it. I can’t imagine riding like that.
Back before I added the tweeters, the 4 6x9s ran perfectly in series/parallel. The only thing I can think of is the power of the added tweeters. The tweeters are rated at higher watts than the speakers. Maybe the amp can’t handle it? Either that or I didn’t wire things up properly. I’m gonna run through everything and make sure the connections are good.
So I wanted to see if it was the impedance that was causing the speakers to cut out. I hooked up each of the 6x9s to a channel and now everything ran fine. Tested it and took it out for a spin. Turned it all the way up and rode for about 15 minutes and not cut off. So then I tapped into each speaker and hooked up a tweeter in parallel with each 6x9. Now it runs fine but there is no sound from the tweeters. I’m confused what is going on.
Lord Flashheart, the first post said the tweeters came with capacitors built in.
Steve, the impedance wouldn't have had anything to do with the throttle position issue unless voltage drops only while riding. In that case, a little extra demand from the 2 ohm load could have been too much, and the real issue would have been the amp was too much of a load for the electrical system.
BTW, the power ratings of the speakers aren't relative. That *should* indicate how much amplifier power the speakers can handle before the voice coil burns through. Usually they are just BS marketing hype.
Are your amp crossovers set to either flat or high pass? Can you check the tweeters with a multimeter? Best to check after the caps, they will hinder a DCR measurement.
Pics might be helpful.
Steve, the impedance wouldn't have had anything to do with the throttle position issue unless voltage drops only while riding. In that case, a little extra demand from the 2 ohm load could have been too much, and the real issue would have been the amp was too much of a load for the electrical system.
BTW, the power ratings of the speakers aren't relative. That *should* indicate how much amplifier power the speakers can handle before the voice coil burns through. Usually they are just BS marketing hype.
Are your amp crossovers set to either flat or high pass? Can you check the tweeters with a multimeter? Best to check after the caps, they will hinder a DCR measurement.
Pics might be helpful.
I switched them from flat to high, but still no power to the tweeters. I tried touching the pos and neg wires directly to the tweeters and nothing. I will check with the multimeter. What should I look for with the DMM? What should I take pics of?
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Gotcha! I attached the pics. Don’t mind the wire mess. I plan to clean it all up once everything is wired properly.
Attachments
With just the 6x9s it can be heard at high volumes. But with the tweeters it’s insanely clear. I really want to get them working properly. Do you think I should get another smaller amp just for the tweeters?
Your amp should run them all without much fuss. If the electrical system was being dragged down by the amp under 2 ohm load, then adding another amp surely won't help.
The big question at this point is whether the tweeters are OK. You can check them with a meter. Even brushing the tweeter wires across a 1.5V battery (disconnect them from the amp first) will give you a crackle noise that at least says they should be doing something. If the cap is in line with your test point, you will hear a quick "tick" instead of a crackle.
The big question at this point is whether the tweeters are OK. You can check them with a meter. Even brushing the tweeter wires across a 1.5V battery (disconnect them from the amp first) will give you a crackle noise that at least says they should be doing something. If the cap is in line with your test point, you will hear a quick "tick" instead of a crackle.
The tweeters are good. They worked when in parallel with each other, but the amp would shut off.
Sorry I missed this question earlier. With the DMM switched to ohms, check across the tweeter terminals directly. A 4 ohm tweeter will probably read around 3 ohms, but anywhere remotely close to 4 is fine. All 4 should be consistent.
If a tweeter and a 6x9 are in parallel, and the 6x9 is the only one playing music, it can only be: wiring/connection from the tweeter back to the point where the two speakers are connected, a non-working tweeter, or a bad cap.
4 bad caps are highly unlikely.
Just an update. I ordered some new tweeters to see how they ran and they worked fine in parallel with the 6x9. I did the DMM test and the 1.5 volt battery test on the tweeters that are mounted on the bike and apparently I blew all four tweeters... It must've been while I was rewiring them (noob mistake). The amp must've sent some kind of unfriendly wave through and blew them. It's fine since they're all under warranty anyway. But, I will now have to resolder some wires onto the new tweeters before I get it all set up again. I appreciate all of your input. Will keep you all updated.
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