I think I might have found it. Actually not sure exactly where it was, but I just started re-soldering the two pre-boards. I noticed a possible leg of Q3 may not have been soldered well enough . Now I get clean +-16.7vDC at the OpAmps. I'm going to start re-attaching the snipped legs and even back to re-attaching D15 to see what is what.
I also found some dirty switches. Dont think that was the issue but I cleaned them up and they seem to have better contact. Gotta love SS switches!
I also found some dirty switches. Dont think that was the issue but I cleaned them up and they seem to have better contact. Gotta love SS switches!
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Couple things here.
1. I need to order a new RCA-Out jack as mine is broken. There are lots of RCA jacks on Mouser but I cant seem to find one which might fit, or I might just skip this and delete the RCA outs seeing as I will not be using them.
2. I'm replacing all the 16v2200uf Electrolytic caps in the PS and some of the caps in other parts of the board. In doing so, wonder if there is a suitable up-graded cap to use?
3. Seems there are some who offer "Class-A Conversion" upgrades for these. Seems to be common place in upgrading the power supply FETs and gate resistors, and maybe even the drivers in the PS. I'm sure these original FETs took a beating on blowing all outputs and the main fuse, and so I might just go ahead and replace them if there is a suitable upgrade. I'm planning to run this amp at 2-ohm Mono across 2x10" subs. Any upgrade recommendations? Also any upgraded RECTs I should plan to use?
1. I need to order a new RCA-Out jack as mine is broken. There are lots of RCA jacks on Mouser but I cant seem to find one which might fit, or I might just skip this and delete the RCA outs seeing as I will not be using them.
2. I'm replacing all the 16v2200uf Electrolytic caps in the PS and some of the caps in other parts of the board. In doing so, wonder if there is a suitable up-graded cap to use?
3. Seems there are some who offer "Class-A Conversion" upgrades for these. Seems to be common place in upgrading the power supply FETs and gate resistors, and maybe even the drivers in the PS. I'm sure these original FETs took a beating on blowing all outputs and the main fuse, and so I might just go ahead and replace them if there is a suitable upgrade. I'm planning to run this amp at 2-ohm Mono across 2x10" subs. Any upgrade recommendations? Also any upgraded RECTs I should plan to use?
You can use panel-type RCAs that have nuts and insulators to hold them to the case without shorting to the case. You hard wire them.
There is no need to 'upgrade' the caps unless you think the design engineer was incompetent.
The amps are already class AB. Class A will get you nothing.
The rectifiers can be a weak point. The MUR1620CT and MUR1620CTR are generally good subs for center tapped rectifiers.
There is no need to 'upgrade' the caps unless you think the design engineer was incompetent.
The amps are already class AB. Class A will get you nothing.
The rectifiers can be a weak point. The MUR1620CT and MUR1620CTR are generally good subs for center tapped rectifiers.
OK I've ordered:
15 TIP102
15 TIP107
10 2200uf16v caps
2 1000uf25v caps
4 grams heat sync compound
2 TL074CN
1 SA5532AP
30 0.27ohm 2watt Medal Oxide Resistors
1 White RCA jack
1 Red RCA jack
2 MUR1620CTG
2 MUR1620CTRG
3 MPSA14
1 10ohm 2watt medal oxide (R176)
2 1ohm 10watt Ceramic resistors (R158 & R158)
1 Adafruit Solder sucker
2 Soundstream FEB2 Driver boards (from eBay)
Looks like the bill is in at $102. Hope this works out!
15 TIP102
15 TIP107
10 2200uf16v caps
2 1000uf25v caps
4 grams heat sync compound
2 TL074CN
1 SA5532AP
30 0.27ohm 2watt Medal Oxide Resistors
1 White RCA jack
1 Red RCA jack
2 MUR1620CTG
2 MUR1620CTRG
3 MPSA14
1 10ohm 2watt medal oxide (R176)
2 1ohm 10watt Ceramic resistors (R158 & R158)
1 Adafruit Solder sucker
2 Soundstream FEB2 Driver boards (from eBay)
Looks like the bill is in at $102. Hope this works out!
Only parts left to arrive are the FEB2 driver boards from eBay nos parts seller.
I powered the amp up before putting one set of TIP102/107 in each channel. The amp powered and took all the new components thus far. In total each channel takes 12 BJTs.
Can I power this amp up to test anything without the driver boards? I know I wont get any sound but maybe I can check out a few things before the boards come in.
Also back to S11. Supposedly an external Bass module switch? I have no documentation or literature about how this works; whether it should be on or off, and in which direction. The back cover of this amp does not make this switch accessible; but its definitely on the PCB. What does each position do?
I powered the amp up before putting one set of TIP102/107 in each channel. The amp powered and took all the new components thus far. In total each channel takes 12 BJTs.
Can I power this amp up to test anything without the driver boards? I know I wont get any sound but maybe I can check out a few things before the boards come in.
Also back to S11. Supposedly an external Bass module switch? I have no documentation or literature about how this works; whether it should be on or off, and in which direction. The back cover of this amp does not make this switch accessible; but its definitely on the PCB. What does each position do?
Nevermind found information here on AIRBASS module. Last page of this link.
http://www.soundstream.com/manuals/other/airbass/airbass.pdf
http://www.soundstream.com/manuals/other/airbass/airbass.pdf
Good job man, the cost of repair is nothing compared to the cost of a similarly nice amplifier today.
If it helps my Soundstream amp also has a slight pop on power up or down but I have a relay delay system for remote turn on and the pop isn’t very big anyway. Others will have more experience with these amps and I’m sure they’ll chime in.
If it helps my Soundstream amp also has a slight pop on power up or down but I have a relay delay system for remote turn on and the pop isn’t very big anyway. Others will have more experience with these amps and I’m sure they’ll chime in.
Apologies, just checked and it's only on power down and only then if I turn the head unit off manually with the engine running.
When I turn the ignition off there is no pop on power down.
I had been thinking that to be fair, it may be something to do with the relay. It is also possible that the pop is being hidden by the sound of the engine stopping and the various electric gizmos whirring when the ignition is stopped.
I am still using that JBL 1400.1 through a ground loop isolator because it makes causes the other amps to be noisy and I was wondering if it was anything to with the way I provide power and ground to remote turn -on/accessory power system I lashed up.
Reading Dr Zues's experience with the pop prompted me to have another look at the system but I would also be curious as to whether early 90s Soundstream amps do the same?
Edit: I have also been wondering whether the pop was always there or if it started after I replaced the bulged subwoofer channel rail capacitor. Kicking myself for not having paid attention before I repaired/ruined it...
I am still using that JBL 1400.1 through a ground loop isolator because it makes causes the other amps to be noisy and I was wondering if it was anything to with the way I provide power and ground to remote turn -on/accessory power system I lashed up.
Reading Dr Zues's experience with the pop prompted me to have another look at the system but I would also be curious as to whether early 90s Soundstream amps do the same?
Edit: I have also been wondering whether the pop was always there or if it started after I replaced the bulged subwoofer channel rail capacitor. Kicking myself for not having paid attention before I repaired/ruined it...
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