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Class d amp repair help.
Class d amp repair help.
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Old 22nd October 2019, 04:15 AM   #11
petercourt is offline petercourt  Australia
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Join Date: Sep 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nigelwright7557 View Post
Have you checked the mosfets ?
The ir2113 is just a gate driver.
Yes they all check out fine. As I said the Amp now works fine and puts out a clean signal on the output. Does not draw too much current it just is running extremely hot. And u can smell burning as a result.
What caused all this mess was a slip of a multimeter probe where the power supply joins to the output. You can kind of see where they slipped pins are a bit distorted.
I found why it was cycling between power and protect. Was ir2113. Replaced that. But now having heat problems.
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Old 22nd October 2019, 04:21 AM   #12
petercourt is offline petercourt  Australia
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I got some new 15k resistors to replace the one that was running hot. However my local store only had 1w resistors they are not quiet as big as the original. Will this work for testing purposes or should I put 2 in parallel?
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Old 22nd October 2019, 04:23 AM   #13
Perry Babin is offline Perry Babin  United States
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Why do you think the resistors need to be replaced?

Don't power it up without the 22 ohm resistor.
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Last edited by Perry Babin; 22nd October 2019 at 04:29 AM.
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Old 22nd October 2019, 04:27 AM   #14
petercourt is offline petercourt  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry Babin View Post
Why do you think the resistors need to be replaced?
It got extremely hot. And also one 22ohm resistor I must have accidentally broke when I was taking the heat sink clips off. It could have been broken previously I'm not sure.
Edit. Sorry I don't think I need to replace the 15k resistor that's getting really hot it checked out fine out of circuit.
But I will need to replace the broken 22ohm one of the legs were snapped off it was mounted vertical on the board
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Last edited by petercourt; 22nd October 2019 at 04:29 AM.
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Old 22nd October 2019, 04:28 AM   #15
Perry Babin is offline Perry Babin  United States
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Did you check to see if it was connected across one of the rails as was previously suggested?
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Old 22nd October 2019, 04:38 AM   #16
petercourt is offline petercourt  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry Babin View Post
Did you check to see if it was connected across one of the rails as was previously suggested?
Not sure how to do that? I don't have a schematic.
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Old 22nd October 2019, 04:41 AM   #17
Perry Babin is offline Perry Babin  United States
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You should be able to read 0 ohms from the center leg of the rectifiers to the input legs of the rectifiers.

There should be an identical resistor for the other rail as well.

Contact Lanzar to see if they will send you the diagram.
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Old 22nd October 2019, 04:48 AM   #18
petercourt is offline petercourt  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry Babin View Post
You should be able to read 0 ohms from the center leg of the rectifiers to the input legs of the rectifiers.

There should be an identical resistor for the other rail as well.

Contact Lanzar to see if they will send you the diagram.
I get a direct short between the legs on the left(in photo) on the mosfets circled too one side of the resistor getting hot
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Old 22nd October 2019, 05:20 AM   #19
Perry Babin is offline Perry Babin  United States
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I think that that resistor is as was thought and will get hot. It's large so that it can dissipate enough heat without overheating/burning.
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Old 22nd October 2019, 05:23 AM   #20
petercourt is offline petercourt  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry Babin View Post
I think that that resistor is as was thought and will get hot. It's large so that it can dissipate enough heat without overheating/burning.
It's not only that resistor that gets hot. All the output inductors get burning hot. And the resistor on the other side stays nice and cool?
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