Looking for help with a older lanzar 2150 optidrive from the 90's haven't used it in about 10 years or so hooked it up and everything worked god for about a week and now the green light is on its getting power but not putting out any power to the sub. Also cant seem to find any schematics for this unit if anyone can offer some help I would greatly appreciate it
lanzar 2150 optidrive
No I havent done anything invasive yet. I came home it was working when I shut the truck off and did not drive it till 2 days later and it was not working. I checked the speaker wires with a multi tester and no current. It seems like maybe there is something up with the rca input on the amp maybe. I'm just not sure how to go about figuring out whats up with it.
No I havent done anything invasive yet. I came home it was working when I shut the truck off and did not drive it till 2 days later and it was not working. I checked the speaker wires with a multi tester and no current. It seems like maybe there is something up with the rca input on the amp maybe. I'm just not sure how to go about figuring out whats up with it.
First, with the black probe on the main ground terminal (on the amplifier's terminal block, not on the wire or grounding screw), do you read 12v on the remote and B+ terminals of the terminal block?
If you're new to this type of work and want to try to repair this amp, you should read the following page in its entirety.
bcae1.com - Car Amplifier Repair Tutorial - The Basics
This amp likely has an isolated secondary. If so you must place the black probe on the secondary ground to read the secondary voltages. Either of the non-bridging speaker terminals on the amp will serve as a good point to place the black probe.
The center legs of the output transistors (larger transistors clamped to the heatsink) should have roughly ±35v DC. The power supply pins on the op-amps in the preamp section should have approximately ±15v DC.
If you start probing around in the amp, insert a low-rated fuse in the B+ line in place of the normal fuse to give added protection in case you make a mistake.
If you're new to this type of work and want to try to repair this amp, you should read the following page in its entirety.
bcae1.com - Car Amplifier Repair Tutorial - The Basics
This amp likely has an isolated secondary. If so you must place the black probe on the secondary ground to read the secondary voltages. Either of the non-bridging speaker terminals on the amp will serve as a good point to place the black probe.
The center legs of the output transistors (larger transistors clamped to the heatsink) should have roughly ±35v DC. The power supply pins on the op-amps in the preamp section should have approximately ±15v DC.
If you start probing around in the amp, insert a low-rated fuse in the B+ line in place of the normal fuse to give added protection in case you make a mistake.
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