The parts aren't critical. The bulbs are current limiters and give a visible indication when current increases. They don't have to be used but are better than no limiting.
The diodes aren't critical. You can use any high-speed diode you have. You can even use one half of the amp's rectifier diodes. I generally recommend against this, especially when the amps use hard to get rectifiers.
You can almost always find space to get under a transformer (with silicone, not those like rockford that use epoxy). Use a plastic probe to work under an area that has the best clearance. After you get through, you can use either the plastic probe or even something like fishing line to cut through a bit more silicone to get the small windings through.
Autozone or similar will have the lamps to save on shipping.
The diodes aren't critical. You can use any high-speed diode you have. You can even use one half of the amp's rectifier diodes. I generally recommend against this, especially when the amps use hard to get rectifiers.
You can almost always find space to get under a transformer (with silicone, not those like rockford that use epoxy). Use a plastic probe to work under an area that has the best clearance. After you get through, you can use either the plastic probe or even something like fishing line to cut through a bit more silicone to get the small windings through.
Autozone or similar will have the lamps to save on shipping.
Hi Perry so I have wrapped a 22 gauge length of wire around one of the transformers i had 5 wraps it read 12vdc so I put another wrap which now makes 6 wraps and it's essentially the same it reads 12.7vdc and I have no more room for more wraps it was very difficult to get it 6 around it any suggestions
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Pic below.
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That's the primary CT. Confirm by measuring resistance to the B+ terminal.
You will still need a rectifier and cap. If you just use a rectifier and connect to the output of the original rectifier (originals out of the circuit), the rail caps will be the cap that you need.
You will need to back the turns down from 11 to stay around 15v DC.
You will still need a rectifier and cap. If you just use a rectifier and connect to the output of the original rectifier (originals out of the circuit), the rail caps will be the cap that you need.
You will need to back the turns down from 11 to stay around 15v DC.
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