DIY passive Crossover 4th order linkwitz riley 2 way at 3 Khz
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 16th June 2019, 06:32 AM #1 agusdteacher   diyAudio Member   Join Date: Jun 2019 Location: Indonesia DIY passive Crossover 4th order linkwitz riley 2 way at 3 Khz any one can help me ? I plan to build Car Audio with the driver : > Tweeter Swan Hi-Vi Q1R Nominal Impedance (Z)(Ω) : 6 Resonance Frequency (Fs)(Hz) : 1000 Nominal Power Handling (Pnom)(W) : 15 Sensitivity (2.83v/1m)(dB) : 89 > Mid Bass Swan Hi-Vi F6 Nominal Impedance (Z)(Ω) : 8 Resonance Frequency (Fs)(Hz) : 45 Nominal Power Handling (Pnom)(W) : 45 Sensitivity (2.83v/1m)(dB) : 88 Linear Excursion (Xmax)(mm) : 4.3 Tuning Frequency(Fb)(Hz) : 45 -3dB Cut-Off Frequency(F3)(Hz) : 42 Total Q (Qts) : 0.35 Then i need PASSIVE CROSSOVER 4th order linkwitz riley 2 way at 3 Khz for the driver. then i search at ERSE - Crossover Calculator - Fourth Order 2 Way. So i know the Capacitor dan Inductor need. here the list : As a newbe, is that right if i plan to buy this item ? C1 = 4,689 uF L1 = 0,2 mH C2 = 9,378 uF L2 = 1,2 mH C3 = 10,554 uF L3 = 0,8 mH C4 = 2,346 uF L4 = 0,4 mH For Capacitor : ZANTZEN SILVER Z-CAP > C1 = 4,689 uF ( 3,30µF + 1,00µF + 0,39µF ) > C2 = 9,378 uF ( 6,80µF + 1,80µF + 0,68µF + 0,10µF ) > C3 = 10,554 uF ( 5,60µF + 3,30µF + 1,50µF + 0,15µF ) > C4 = 2,346 uF ( 2,20µF + 0,15µF ) For Inductor : ZANTZEN BAKED WIRE > L1 = 0,2 mH > L2 = 1,2 mH > L3 = 0,8 mH > L4 = 0,4 mH is it true the component that I will buy? How to DIY the PCB ? or anyone sell it ? Please Help and Advice. Last edited by agusdteacher; 16th June 2019 at 06:46 AM.
 16th June 2019, 12:20 PM #2 miniman82   diyAudio Member   Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: USA You’re going to need to standardize the cap values, for example a 4.689if isn’t made but 4.7 should be easy to find. Once the cap values are standard, you run the simulation again with the new values because the inductor values will change. Much easier to add/remove turns from an inductor than search for a crazy value cap. Once the simulation looks close enough (it will never be perfect), source your parts and assemble on perfboard. __________________ Gear I use: Tektronix 475 Oscilloscope, Lambda LA-200 Power Supply, Rat Shack DMM, 100w homebrew resistive dummy load, 20 Years Experience as a Navy Aviation Electrician
 16th June 2019, 01:57 PM #3 asuslover   diyAudio Member   Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: USA L1 and l2 could be 20-22ga wire but for the woofer you should use 18ga wire inductors . c3-c4 don’t need to be the high end caps , mkt caps 100-400v will be great .
 16th June 2019, 04:43 PM #4 tsmith1315   diyAudio Member     Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Doerun, GA A couple of quick notes- Use the actual impedance for the driver at the desired crossover frequency, not the nominal impedance. Read these values from the graphs on the data sheet. This will probably make more of a difference for the woofer. I wouldn't go overboard with expensive components. In my experience, the installation and adjustments to make things work together optimally is far, far, far more audible in a car than any difference that fancy caps/coils can make. Just use decent quality stuff, unless you need that to make yourself feel better. If your drivers aren't going to be mounted close together, higher order filters can make the driver separation and different listening angles more audible. That's not to say they're not better, it's all a matter of compromises. It's up to you to decide which compromises are best. Welcome to DIY __________________ Tim
 18th June 2019, 08:39 AM #5 agusdteacher   diyAudio Member   Join Date: Jun 2019 Location: Indonesia Thanks a lot for repply and advice to miniman82, asuslover and tsmith1315.

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