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Dead CXA300.1
Dead CXA300.1
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Old 15th May 2019, 07:56 PM   #1
zinoyracer is offline zinoyracer  United States
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Default Dead CXA300.1

I was dumb and swapped the 12V+ and GND in a hurry to go out to eat on Mothers Day. I dont see anything instantly that jumps out maybe someone can see something. I get no lights or sound when connected properly now.



Thank you in advance.
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Old 15th May 2019, 08:33 PM   #2
Perry Babin is offline Perry Babin  United States
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Did it blow the fuse in the B+ line?
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Old 15th May 2019, 10:04 PM   #3
zinoyracer is offline zinoyracer  United States
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Yes when I went and reconnected the negative battery cable, the fuse in my 4 gauge 12v + flashed and popped the glass instantly.

Last edited by zinoyracer; 15th May 2019 at 10:11 PM. Reason: Grammar
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Old 15th May 2019, 10:14 PM   #4
Perry Babin is offline Perry Babin  United States
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If it reads 0 ohms across the B+ and ground terminals, remove the two power supply FETs and check them. After they're out and the solder pads are cleaned to remove any solder bridges, re-check across the B+ and ground to see if you still read 0 ohms.
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Old 15th May 2019, 10:15 PM   #5
john20851 is offline john20851  United Kingdom
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Hi, If there is a circuit diagram anywhere it may give clues, maybe there is a reverse polarity protection diode that has gone short. I did download the manual, but there was no circuit.
john
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Old 17th May 2019, 03:08 AM   #6
PapaZBill is offline PapaZBill  United States
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While you have the mosfets pulled you will want to check the driver IC3-18021. If the mosfets are blown most likely the driver is also. Post the Ohmmeter measurements, Black probe to power ground. Check both the IC3 and IC2-TL494 on all pins and list as follows:

IC2
1-
2-
3-
etc

IC3
1-
2-
3-
etc

What test equipment and tools do you have?Oscilloscope,DVM,VOM, power supply,soldering iron?

Some idea about your skill level will be helpful, so to offer better advice.
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Old 17th May 2019, 05:56 PM   #7
zinoyracer is offline zinoyracer  United States
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I tested b+ to GND . It started at 4.5k ohms but kept climbing slowly after about 30 seconds was at 9.5k.

I haven't been able to pull FETS yet because I work in the Silicon Valley (IT Tech since 1995) and my de solder station is 3 hours away in Fresno. I'll be home Saturday night to work on the amp.

I have DMM , irons, de solder pump that connects to my shop compressor with a foot switch. I MIGHT have an osiliscope as my dad was a repair tech for Schlumberger since he left Atari but retired recently and has a bunch of equipment at the house.

As for PSU I modified an ATX PSU to get 12v for testing head units and other projects.

I have built cmoys and gainclones and also a tube amp (project sunrise).. Some were etched in my garage with laser toner transfer until I bought the audiosector PCBs . I learned etching in highschool I had 4 years of electronics class as my elective. I guess what I'm trying to convey is I have a basic understanding of electronics, but I honestly I just follow directions pretty well.
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Old 17th May 2019, 06:10 PM   #8
Perry Babin is offline Perry Babin  United States
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When you reconnected B+ and ground properly, did it blow the fuse before you applied remote voltage?
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Old 17th May 2019, 06:40 PM   #9
zinoyracer is offline zinoyracer  United States
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No, after correctly connecting only my kx350.4 turns on powering the front stage. I verified the amp was getting 12v+ and ground. The remote wire is sending signal but as a test I jumped 12v to remote still no lights or sound.
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Old 17th May 2019, 06:52 PM   #10
zinoyracer is offline zinoyracer  United States
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Oh also, it doesn't blow the fuse when in correct polarity, but perhaps the fuse is too large or slow. I only waited about 30 seconds to a minute after the front amp started playing music before removing REM though. Thank you for taking the time to help me with this. I'm hoping to learn how to troubleshoot amps myself as I have a usacoustics 2050 I messed up trying to swap the opamp to a burr brown. This was before I knew that it was a Zed amp . So if possible a slight explanation of what we are looking for and why on the tests, so I don't have to take the forums time for the basic stuff. I truly appreciate the help on such a low cost amp. I figured I would learn on this one and then proceed to the more expensive amps I need to fix. The 2050 and also a Kicker ZR240 with only one working channel.
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