I'm installing a stereo system in my car and have a question.
The Factory door speakers are 4x6's
I'm gonna run a component set 6.5' with tweeters in the kick panels since i need more the just a component set up front should i replace the 4x6's with the same size and run coaxial's or convert them over to a 4" midrange in the doors?
I'm gonna be running 4 12" subs so i need the extra speakers up front
My question is what would sound better 4" midrange speakers in the doors and a 6.5" component set in the kick panels or a 4x6" coaxial and the 6.5" component set
The Factory door speakers are 4x6's
I'm gonna run a component set 6.5' with tweeters in the kick panels since i need more the just a component set up front should i replace the 4x6's with the same size and run coaxial's or convert them over to a 4" midrange in the doors?
I'm gonna be running 4 12" subs so i need the extra speakers up front
My question is what would sound better 4" midrange speakers in the doors and a 6.5" component set in the kick panels or a 4x6" coaxial and the 6.5" component set
I would run the kicks with only mid bass and put the largest separate component set (that fits) into the doors. Put real power to the entire front end and Dynamat the inside and outer skin of the doors, as well as the area behind the kick panels etc to eliminate any rattles and movement. Also make sure the speakers are installed as airtight as possible for maximum punch. You don't need tons of front speakers, you need them to work, and power them with 100 w rms per channel at least. Rear fill same thing, except simple in the doors or side/rear panels with lower power and maybe in mono. Dynamat all of that as well.
4 twelves in a proper cabinet will pound hard, but if crossed over appropriately will not go high enough for clean punch and blending with your fronts, especially if the box is ported. 4 tens will usually sound better, altho with some very low end lost. If they're free air, make sure they can work in large enclosure, if they're in a cabinet, firing it backwards (towards the trunk opening) us usually better; I prefer sealed, especially with that many woofers. Ensure the design is correct, too many systems stuff multiple woofers into way too small a cabinet, only to wonder why there is a huge 100 hz boom and no real low end. 10s traditionally work in about half the air volume of a 12 (a gross generalization, but still mostly true), with similar power handling, so your entire cabinet would be way smaller with better sounding, flatter output. Also, phase relation between the subs and the 4 front woofers is critical to blend everything together properly and get that tight hit. More power, from real amps is the way to go as well. Having too much rms power is just right, when setup correctly, nothing will ever clip.
4 twelves in a proper cabinet will pound hard, but if crossed over appropriately will not go high enough for clean punch and blending with your fronts, especially if the box is ported. 4 tens will usually sound better, altho with some very low end lost. If they're free air, make sure they can work in large enclosure, if they're in a cabinet, firing it backwards (towards the trunk opening) us usually better; I prefer sealed, especially with that many woofers. Ensure the design is correct, too many systems stuff multiple woofers into way too small a cabinet, only to wonder why there is a huge 100 hz boom and no real low end. 10s traditionally work in about half the air volume of a 12 (a gross generalization, but still mostly true), with similar power handling, so your entire cabinet would be way smaller with better sounding, flatter output. Also, phase relation between the subs and the 4 front woofers is critical to blend everything together properly and get that tight hit. More power, from real amps is the way to go as well. Having too much rms power is just right, when setup correctly, nothing will ever clip.
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