Help New Guy (Rockville RXA T1 Car Amp)

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Jump to Latest
J

Jeff Mills

Member
Joined 2017
I'm pulling my hair out my head trying to locate datasheet, replacement or substitute for the following YPI5055C to220 package transistor. These are in the power supply circuitry of a Rockville RXA-T1 1500 Watt Peak/750w RMS 2 Channel Amplifier.

I've searched high and low called mouser and digikey but no help Any advise would be most appreciated.

Thanks
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20171122_110041861.jpg
    IMG_20171122_110041861.jpg
    286.2 KB · Views: 195
Last edited:
indianajo

indianajo

Member
Joined 2010
Private label semiconductors is a feature of the industry. You won't get data.
Best to back up from the application, and engineer it yourself. Is it a fet or Junction transistor, or a double diode? Find one not blown up, see if the left is a base pin that has double diode 0.6v to the other two pins. That is a junction transistor. Polarity determines npn or pnp.
If the center pin has 0.3 v diodes to the two outers, it is a double schottky diode. If shorting left (gate) to right gets infinite ohms right to middle one way, 0.6 v the other way, it is a fet. Polarity of diode determines pfet or nfet .
Then look at power supply voltage by looking at voltage rating on the caps the collector drain or cathode is hooked to. Buy a part with a rating higher than that.
Package size is obvious, buy one of those.
Good luck.
 
Last edited:
J

Jeff Mills

Member
Joined 2017
indianajo said:
Private label semiconductors is a feature of the industry. You won't get data.
Best to back up from the application, and engineer it yourself. Is it a fet or Junction transistor, or a double diode? Find one not blown up, see if the left is a base pin that has double diode 0.6v to the other two pins. That is a junction transistor. Polarity determines npn or pnp.
If the center pin has 0.3 v diodes to the two outers, it is a double schottky diode. If shorting left (gate) to right gets infinite ohms right to middle one way, 0.6 v the other way, it is a fet. Polarity of diode determines pfet or nfet .
Then look at power supply voltage by looking at voltage rating on the caps the collector drain or cathode is hooked to. Buy a part with a rating higher than that.
Package size is obvious, buy one of those.
Good luck.
Click to expand...

Thanks man -

I really appreciate your time in responding to my plea for help. Great info

My inboard MM tests have me leaning towards a SCR but I need to pull them to be sure. I have all the other components on order so I'll pull them when they come in.
 
E

Enzo

Member
Joined 2004
Watch your typos, that is 6055 not 5055. And is that YPI as you wrote or YP1? Try both while searching.

The company is still around:
Welcome to Rockville

COntact them directly and ask. A good query might be to ask if they can provide the part or suggest a source. A phone call will be better than an email.

I am not a fan of NTE, but if you can find an NTE cross for it, it will at least identify the sort of part it is.
 
kevinkr

kevinkr

Administrator
Joined 2004
kta-hifi.net
Paid Member
They might be 2N6055C darlingtons, I can't imagine their use in an automotive amplifier claiming that power level. I can't imagine an automotive amp could produce that much power in a package of that size or cost.

References to YPI semiconductors appear on the web, I would not click the associated links as they appear bogus.

The amp costs about $70 retail so I would not spend much on an attempt to repair it.
 
J

Jeff Mills

Member
Joined 2017
Enzo said:
Watch your typos, that is 6055 not 5055. And is that YPI as you wrote or YP1? Try both while searching.

The company is still around:
Welcome to Rockville

COntact them directly and ask. A good query might be to ask if they can provide the part or suggest a source. A phone call will be better than an email.

I am not a fan of NTE, but if you can find an NTE cross for it, it will at least identify the sort of part it is.
Click to expand...

I called Rockville yesterday asking for the transistor or substitutes. A pretty cool guy named Kevin put in a request to the repair dept and is supposed to get back to me.
 
J

Jeff Mills

Member
Joined 2017
The absolute saddest part of this whole thing is I earned a electronics engineering degree back in the mid 80's. that I never put to use and now that I'm old I have basically forgot a whole lot about it :( So please forgive me in advance if I ask stupid questions about this repair job.
 
J

Jeff Mills

Member
Joined 2017
Perry Babin said:
It appears to have 47 ohm gate resistors (check all of those) so you could use something like the IRF3205.

The driver transistors may be damaged. They appear to be QP3/4.

Check the solder connections on D23/24.
Click to expand...

Thank you!

The other transistors are TIP41&TIP42, KB770&KD998 (complementary pairs). I got the data sheets and replacements on order for those. I figured as long as I got my hands in there - I'll put in all fresh.

The symptom:
Channel 1 went full power briefly and then into protect and won't come out. I'm thinking I have a bank with shorted gates??? But I haven't got that far into it yet.

I could just go buy a new amp easy enough... but honestly it's kind of fun to do the repair. Beside God knows I could use the practice and re-learn some of what I've forgotten.
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Top Bottom