Doesn't look like you've have thought much of stereo imaging and sound quality. Seems more like the approach of "too much bass, and sound coming from here and there".
I don't believe those coax speakers in the dash can keep up with the sub's volume, and forget about using those 6x9s at high volume, because those will ruin the stereo image (their in the trunk).
Perhaps the dash speakers don't even go low enough to be crossed over with the sub, and were will you then have the mid-bass? In the trunk (6x9)!?
You can use the 6x9s for rear-fill to help the stereo image, but the you shouldn't let it play to high, a lowpass at approx 5000-6000Hz is suggested by DLS (swedish car audio brand) in their installation guide. They even highpass the rear-fill at 550Hz or so, but the most important thing about rear fill is that it's supposed to be about 12dB lower than the rest of the system! (All this is approximate numbers from my head, and must be tested and tweaked to get the best performance).
If you have door-panels or kick panels, (I don't see any) you might be better of, but remember that the more speakers you have (dash, door, kickpanel, trunk) the harder it is to make it sound great. The simplest is often what sounds best: One sub and one good component set (2- or 3-way) in the front (door- or kickpanel).
Another thing is that a bassreflex-sub might have some phase-problems when the elements and the ports are at different sides of the box. Frequencies could be cancelled out. For instance you have 100dB at 50Hz, but 0-20dB at 60Hz (just an example). But anyway, it might work okay for you in your setup.
This is not to complain about your setup, but to give you som advices. Hope you understand that.
Later I will post pictures of my setup in this forum, but now I'm studying for an exam, so it'll have to wait.
I don't believe those coax speakers in the dash can keep up with the sub's volume, and forget about using those 6x9s at high volume, because those will ruin the stereo image (their in the trunk).
Perhaps the dash speakers don't even go low enough to be crossed over with the sub, and were will you then have the mid-bass? In the trunk (6x9)!?
You can use the 6x9s for rear-fill to help the stereo image, but the you shouldn't let it play to high, a lowpass at approx 5000-6000Hz is suggested by DLS (swedish car audio brand) in their installation guide. They even highpass the rear-fill at 550Hz or so, but the most important thing about rear fill is that it's supposed to be about 12dB lower than the rest of the system! (All this is approximate numbers from my head, and must be tested and tweaked to get the best performance).
If you have door-panels or kick panels, (I don't see any) you might be better of, but remember that the more speakers you have (dash, door, kickpanel, trunk) the harder it is to make it sound great. The simplest is often what sounds best: One sub and one good component set (2- or 3-way) in the front (door- or kickpanel).
Another thing is that a bassreflex-sub might have some phase-problems when the elements and the ports are at different sides of the box. Frequencies could be cancelled out. For instance you have 100dB at 50Hz, but 0-20dB at 60Hz (just an example). But anyway, it might work okay for you in your setup.
This is not to complain about your setup, but to give you som advices. Hope you understand that.
Later I will post pictures of my setup in this forum, but now I'm studying for an exam, so it'll have to wait.
I found the biggest problem with getting my car to sound good was the road noise. When the car was parked with the engine off, my stereo sounded great. Going on the highway at 120 KM/h was a different story. I had plenty of bass but because of the noise I lost the clarity of the music. It was very depressing. Also it could be due to the fact that when the car is on, the supply voltage jumps up a lot, and perhaps whatever chips the amps in my stereo use don't sound as good at those levels. I did quite a lot to make my environment quieter. My next move is to remove all seats and put down new carpet with underpadding. I know dynomat is supposed to be excellent (my bro works installing car stereo equipment) but its far, far too expensive. It's also heavy, so I'll be investigating other materials.
Nice stereo though, beats mine and mine sounds terrific for the cash I've invested (with the car off).
Pete
Nice stereo though, beats mine and mine sounds terrific for the cash I've invested (with the car off).
Pete
Peerless and Illusion Audio...and Seas. I've used all of those in cars. I design and install a lot of this stuff and know what "Quality" sounds like. Most of the Sony and MTX (and others) have piercing, sparkling (exaggerated) treble...slow and chunky bass and sock in the mouth mid-range....yay! Those illusions are pretty peppy!
Well just incase these guys didn't destroy all your dreams and diginity....your car sucks too!
No just kidding! Wow you guys are brutal in here. Hopefully this isn't how this forum (car audio) is in general, otherwise I could see why the activity is slow in here.
Anyways hope you like your setup...thats the point.
No just kidding! Wow you guys are brutal in here. Hopefully this isn't how this forum (car audio) is in general, otherwise I could see why the activity is slow in here.
Anyways hope you like your setup...thats the point.
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