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Jl Audio Slash 500/1 v1 Easy fix??
Jl Audio Slash 500/1 v1 Easy fix??
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Old 12th July 2013, 08:46 AM   #1
EaJohnny is offline EaJohnny  United States
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Default Jl Audio Slash 500/1 v1 Easy fix??

Hello every one here at DIYAudio. Ive been looking at a few threads on this site and it seems to be some really talented people on these boards. So I hope there is someone that can help me fix my amp because it sounded really nice b4 it slowly stopped working. First off I believe I might have blown this amp from having low voltage. I have a small honda accord and I was running this amp from a kenwood deck and pushing a single Alpine 15" SWR-1542D subwoofer at 2ohm from just the battery and alternator. It seem to play fine for a couple months and then all of a sudden it was like my bass started to become weak, meaning it didnt hit as hard as usual and then when I would take off from a light or just out of the blue sometimes it would sound normal again. After a couple days of doing this I disconnected the amp until I had to time to check it all out. A couple of weeks went by and I finally checked all of my wires and connections and everything seemed to be fine. So I connected the amp again and it worked great again for about a day and a half and then my bass went low and back high again and the amp quit completely. The amp doesnt seem to be badly damaged at all. Now I have some pictures and a couple of questions. I took a picture of how it looked when I opened the amp and what it looks like after a qtip and a lil alcohol. I hope its something that wont take much to fix. Does anyone believe this is an easy fix? Thank you for any and all help, its much appreciated!!

1. I notice the damage is with a couple of the Fets. How many do you think was damaged, and how can I check them?

2. One of the pics has a red circle thats show R607, can someone tell me what these are called and how to check and replace them?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Damage.jpg (224.0 KB, 220 views)
File Type: jpg Damage2.jpg (225.3 KB, 205 views)
File Type: jpg help.jpg (191.6 KB, 199 views)
File Type: jpg back.jpg (159.6 KB, 198 views)

Last edited by EaJohnny; 12th July 2013 at 09:50 AM.
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Old 12th July 2013, 10:55 AM   #2
1moreamp is offline 1moreamp  United States
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Location: Northern California
Ahh easy fix? I would say no. I am familiar with these since they were new many years ago now. And to be honest those burnt fets in the supply are only a symptom of a larger problem. Power supplies don't blow out by themselves. Your D class amp section is toast also. So its a rebuild IMHO. < most D class amps die this way and end up be a complete rebuild > You have some board damage from the flash over likely due to improper fusing of the amp supply from the car. But this might clean up ok. No one can tell till all the soot has been removed and the circuitry traces get checked out.

now as I recall JL had a flat rate repair on these in the $90 range < its been 5 years now so that number might not be valid anymore >. But you will need to have a JL dealer take it in and have it sent back to JL. Where they will promptly call the dealer and give him the factory replacement price < which used to be $90 > + what ever the dealer wants to add for shipping and handling for you. I would say count on it being in the $150 range easily. JL will replace the amp if its bad enough with a B stock item that will come back to you in a nice new looking box for that price.

Now are there folks here that can repair this amp?? yes there are, several come to mind. But even they don't do this for free, so you really need to compare JL service with having someone local do the repair.

1: the entire power supply set of fets is toast, along with the gate resistors and probably the driver transistors also, plus you can't rule out permanent board damage also that might or might not be repairable by reasonable means. Factory can replace the whole unit at their cost likely in the $30.00 range.

2: those are the burnt resistors I was speaking about in 1. Also again please keep in mind this supply did not kill itself. Your audio amp section likely needs similar rebuild and replacement, or all the work in the supply will go up in smoke the first time power is applied...

The best person I know of here that could help you is busy on a special project and has not been around too much lately. He even has a training web site just in case you want to learn the skills needed to do this yourself. I will post his training links below , just click on the ones that apply to your needs...He also has a training DVD that I suggest very highly...Thank you Perry for allowing me to borrow your links...

Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links
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Old 12th July 2013, 06:27 PM   #3
Deadly Sones is offline Deadly Sones
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Perry's repair tutorial is unparallelled if amp repair is something your interested in. Worth every penny and then some.
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Old 12th July 2013, 06:57 PM   #4
evianamp2011 is offline evianamp2011  United States
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^^^If your serious about learning to repair amplifiers, then get the Perry's tutorial. If you just want to fix this one amplifier then do as "1moreamp" stated in his post.

I say list it on ebay, I've seen several sell there for around 70-100.00 (depending on cosmetic condition and how bad the damage may be).
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Old 12th July 2013, 10:52 PM   #5
EaJohnny is offline EaJohnny  United States
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Thanks for the replies everyone. 1moreamp I appreciate all the information that you provided. It will be very useful to me. I do see your point about the amp and since it already doesnt work and since it stills powers on just has no output, I would still like to try and repair it myself. No I do not know much about repairing amplifiers but I'm pretty good with a soldering iron and your links should help me on my journey. Im a little confused on a couple things. "You said Your D class amp section is toast also". What part are you meaning by that? Also, "You have some board damage from the flash over likely due to improper fusing of the amp supply from the car". I used a 60 amp fuse as it states in the manual. So I don't know what you mean by that. If by any means I cannot get the parts or my attempt to repair it doesnt work, then I will just post it on ebay or something. But for now its not doing me any good not working lol. Thanks again for all your help!
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Old 13th July 2013, 02:08 AM   #6
1moreamp is offline 1moreamp  United States
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60 might be recommenced but 50 would be better suited since no matter how low a load you hook up to this amp its power supply senses current draw on its primary and shuts down or limits any output above the 500 watts its rated at. Folks love these Jl amps and they had built in power limiting in every one of them. If was rated at say 500 watts you would be lucky to get 520 watts out of it before it would limit itself. So folks running these at 2 ohm and 1 ohms or less are just fooling themselves into think they are maxing out the amp. JL planned for this kind of thinking and placed current sensing coils right on the primary toroid coil side of all of these Slash series amps. The output of that sense coil tells the power supply to turn down the amp power wise after a given threshold of power has been pulled at the 12 volt level < sounds like VI limiting extreme to me, but no one ever complained >
I work my way up to fuse ratings that the amp can live with without vaporizing the circuit board when the supply fets short out like yours did.

Now armed with that engineering info along with the ~90% efficiency the amp has ohms law says you only needed a 50 amp fuse to supply that amp with full power. This gets deeper, fuses are not perfectly manufactured and how much current they will hold for how long varies by manufacturer and their in house quality control of the fuses physical construction. I been around this stuff all my life < I am 56 currently and refuse to grow up > and moderation on fusing will always save you money. I also replace my fuses yearly due to them becoming heat stressed and fatiguing which really tosses they spec out the window. Nothing lasts forever, fuses are expendables. better a fuse then your amp I say...

I worked in a big plant one time and one day the whole plant single phased due to a blown open transformer feeding the plant. I know cause I was the only one that notice 1/3 of the lights in the ceiling were out. Well $800,000.00 later Plant management asked why so much damage. Well seems that most of the plant was fuse exceeding the 115% FLA rating as called out by the National Electrical Code. Oh the plant was New United Motors, NUMMI, the GM, Toyota joint Venture. Boy howdy was I famous for a while since I was the only person to look up and catch the disaster happening.

So you see I do have some experience in this area, after seeing some really huge over fusing disasters. lol, lol, lol...Oh and just look at what happened to that Pioneer show truck a few years back now. It burned itself to the ground due to poor engineering. Seen a few cars burn in my time also. fusing for safety is so important, but so little attention is given to it. Seems like its always been this way...

By D class amplifier I mean the other side of the amp that does all the bass amplifying. There are several different classes of amplifier out there now a days so I tend to point using engineering vernacular to describe the area of interest. Sorry, my degree gets in the way sometimes Your power supply did not fail on it own, or by itself. The audio side of your amp 99.5% of the time failed first, thus driving your power supply into failure like you see it as it sits currently. I been inside of these things for 30 years now and only 2 or 3 times have I seen a power supply die and there be no other problems with the audio side, and that is out of thousands of amps I have worked on over the years. So you can appreciate the math I am sure. Its something less that 0.5% chance that only your supply is damaged, and nothing else is not broken...

Check out Perry Babin's links, he is the man if training is what your looking for. Read through his trainers, and see what you think then. Remember when you have seen as many amps as Perry and I have seen they all begin to look alike, and his trainer covers then like that, since they are are all basically alike inside. I think he might have a special section in his trainer on the JL slash series. And you can search this site as I know that there must be at least 20 or more JL repair threads by Perry on this forum. He has been inside of them a lot here on the DIY, just try a site search, you can't miss his workmanship...
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Old 15th July 2013, 09:59 AM   #7
EaJohnny is offline EaJohnny  United States
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Sorry Im late getting back to you 1moreamp. Been busy this weekend. Again I appreciate all of your knowledge and help on the problems with my amp. I have checked out Perrys links that you provided and I must say there is some great information in them and Ive learned alot already. They are definately in my favorites. And after everything Ive learned I think Im going to just sell this amp on ebay as is and just buy me a new amp. I do appreciate all the help and knowledge that you've given me. Thanks again! Its been much appreciated! Im thinking of going with the Alpine PDX-1.600 amp bcuz it seems to fit best with my system. Do you or anyone have any reviews on this amp? Ive never really had anything bad to say about any of my alpine products in the past so Im hoping I wont with this amp as well.
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