Ok I just recently got "burnt" on a Rockford Fosgate 850.2 amp off Craigslist because I didnt test it first..1. I was on my motorcycle 2. he claimed his hood latch was broke..\sigh should of walked then... Anyway I have already ate $150 for the amp, called Fosgate and was directed to Desert ?? Repair shop who quoted me $185 for the repair. Shipping the amp to them is $38. i have soldered caps for friends amps before and chips in PlayStations. After a visual inspection I know TC8 (Q9) is toast and by the excess solder on Q1022 and possibly 1025. My question is it worth replacing all the correct parts like it was recommended on the Fosgate 800.2 repair thread on this forum or pay the $185 + shipping.. ANY help would be greatly appreciated I know from reading the 800.2 thread this IS the place to come for expert advise..Thank you for anything you can offer..parts list...whatever I can post pics of any component you need to see as well as using a multimeter for readings although my limited knowledge is volts n ohms.
Last edited:
Uploading directly is best. Make sure the images are OK size wise (if there not they won't upload).
Here's how to do it,
To add a photo, files or non standard files.
First click "go advanced" in the box below the "quick reply" message box. Doesn't matter if you decide half way through a message to do that, it carries it forward.
Then click "Manage attachements". Maximise the new Window so that you can see all the text.
Click browse in the first box at the top and find your picture. Repeat for any more pictures.
Click upload... a message appears "uploading"
When complete the files will show as being attached. Now click the small text that says "close this window"
The pictures should now be attached and when you submit your post they will appear.
Make sure your pics aren't too big, a couple of 100k is plenty, and many members object when they are massive and it alters the margins
It tells you in the attachments window what max sizes are allowed.
If you want to attach a file that has a non standard format for example excel, circuit simulation etc then try putting the files in a zipped folder and attaching that.
Oh yeah...good luck replacing those output devices. they are soldered down to a thin piece of aluminum circuit board material. like extra large surface mount devices. you CANNOT remove them with a conventional soldering iron. you need a hot plate and a hot air gun to get them off with out damaging the coating on the aluminum material. or removing the SMD thermal tracking transistor or other parts on the board.
And, the output devices should be matched...
I would suggest sending the amp in for repair if you are not an expertly skilled repair tech! these are not easy amps to work on!
And, the output devices should be matched...
I would suggest sending the amp in for repair if you are not an expertly skilled repair tech! these are not easy amps to work on!
I use a Hakko 850 blowing on the bottom of the aluminum MESHA panel and with a variable soldering iron tip on the metal tab of the bad device, albeit set a tad on the high side of heat, and these things just push right off in 4 to 8 seconds.
Putting devices back on the panel I use pre-cut low temp indium based solder inserts < fairly expensive if you can locate > and liquid flux and reverse the removal process. Oh and I use a set of helping hands to hold the panel while doing all of this so I don't burn myself or anything else since the temps involved will light paper on fire easily.
Other methods call for the use of a hand held butane mini torch again applying heat to the bottom of the aluminum panel. If you solder them back together properly the liquified solder and flux will pull the device down towards the panel when proper solder adhesion and flow has occurred, and most of the excess solder will push out the sides of the side allowing safe removal by a variety of methods.
Hate doing them but have been since they came out years ago. And yes its a large scale version of SMD mounting technologies . That is why RF went to it in the first place, so they could stream line production by pre-assembling all of their power device panels. As I recall they use to sell the completed panels back when these were in production, but I sadly doubt if they have them now since this amp may be out of production for some time. But you could call and ask or go to any RF dealer and ask them to sell the parts to you if they can get them. Otherwise buy gear and learn to solder large SMD style.... best of luck though...
Putting devices back on the panel I use pre-cut low temp indium based solder inserts < fairly expensive if you can locate > and liquid flux and reverse the removal process. Oh and I use a set of helping hands to hold the panel while doing all of this so I don't burn myself or anything else since the temps involved will light paper on fire easily.
Other methods call for the use of a hand held butane mini torch again applying heat to the bottom of the aluminum panel. If you solder them back together properly the liquified solder and flux will pull the device down towards the panel when proper solder adhesion and flow has occurred, and most of the excess solder will push out the sides of the side allowing safe removal by a variety of methods.
Hate doing them but have been since they came out years ago. And yes its a large scale version of SMD mounting technologies . That is why RF went to it in the first place, so they could stream line production by pre-assembling all of their power device panels. As I recall they use to sell the completed panels back when these were in production, but I sadly doubt if they have them now since this amp may be out of production for some time. But you could call and ask or go to any RF dealer and ask them to sell the parts to you if they can get them. Otherwise buy gear and learn to solder large SMD style.... best of luck though...
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.