Has anyone heard of Goldwood brand speakers? They appear in the PartsExpress catalog, and they were the only 4 ohm 5.25" speakers that I could find. They also sell for 8.95 so I'm skeptical, but if they can sound good in a car, I'm willing to buy them, if anyone has experience with it. At Madisound I've found 4 ohm Vifa speakers, that come at a heftier $57 per speaker, and also a $27 speaker. Any input on which one I should rather buy for a car audio setup? Am I looking for woofers, or midrange, or midbass? Not midbass I believe, and I will match these with a tweeter. How would I setup a crossover network for example how do I know how many Farads/Voltage for the capacitor I will need to use? I noticed that they usually cut the midrange? at around 3500 Hz. I'm trying to build a diy car audio setup. Any input is appreciated.
Look at this thread:
http://www.carsound.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=18;t=004706
I spent $146.00 on all six speakers, including shipping from www.speakercity.com
Look at them, or www.madisound.com for 4 ohm speakers for autosound. P.S. I really wouldn't expect much from a <$10 speaker.
http://www.carsound.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=18;t=004706
I spent $146.00 on all six speakers, including shipping from www.speakercity.com
Look at them, or www.madisound.com for 4 ohm speakers for autosound. P.S. I really wouldn't expect much from a <$10 speaker.
sorry I need to clear my head on a few things. For a 3 way set up, midbass, midrange, and tweeter, where would u mount all of them? The midbass in the door, the midrange in the "kickpanel?" and the tweeter in the pillar i guess. What's a kickpanel if its not in the door.
If I don't want to do a 3 way setup, all I would need is a midrange, and a tweeter correct? Crutchfield says I can use up to 5 1/4" in the fronts. Which size should I use for my midrange?
If I don't want to do a 3 way setup, all I would need is a midrange, and a tweeter correct? Crutchfield says I can use up to 5 1/4" in the fronts. Which size should I use for my midrange?
I am going with a 3-way system, because I want a very good soundstage in my car, at high volumes, and also i plan on competing. With a 3-way system, the midbass (in your case 5-1/4") goes in the door, midrange and tweeter go in the kick panel. Kick panel pods can be built by yourself out of fiberglass:
http://community.webshots.com/s/image4/8/12/35/60381235eEaxEt_fs.jpg
http://www.wes.nissanpower.com/photo.html
Or, you can buy them premade from a company like Qlogic (you can find them on ebay, and crutchfield):
http://www.qlogic.ws/2003/home/
Also, if your goals are just for decent sound, and don't really need anything extravagant, look at a decent 2-way system.
If you look at Madisound's website, they also have a crossover building service for speakers you buy from them. I recommend doing a search about DIY component sets on this site, and a few others like:
http://www.caraudioresources.net/index.php
http://www.carsound.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php
http://forums.caraudio.com/vb/
Good Luck!
http://community.webshots.com/s/image4/8/12/35/60381235eEaxEt_fs.jpg
http://www.wes.nissanpower.com/photo.html
Or, you can buy them premade from a company like Qlogic (you can find them on ebay, and crutchfield):
http://www.qlogic.ws/2003/home/
Also, if your goals are just for decent sound, and don't really need anything extravagant, look at a decent 2-way system.
If you look at Madisound's website, they also have a crossover building service for speakers you buy from them. I recommend doing a search about DIY component sets on this site, and a few others like:
http://www.caraudioresources.net/index.php
http://www.carsound.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php
http://forums.caraudio.com/vb/
Good Luck!
I agree with Bluto's comment. Goldwood is a brand folks love to hate but generally do not try. I have used dozens of them. Some are frankly poor. Others are quite good. In fact, as good as loudspeakers costing several times as much.
But there is a more important point. Using the right sort of driver is much more important that using an ultra high quality driver. In other words, if you get the efficiency, the ohms, the suspension, the excursion, and so on right then even a relatively cheap speaker will sound sound fine.
For instance, at the moment I am repairing a set of Pioneer DSS-9D speakers. They use a 6 ohm, dual voice coil, 12 inch driver. One coil just gets ultra low frequencies. The other gets more upper bass. Now many companies offer something close. "99 and 1/2 just won't do" as the song says! Close is no good. This is a very specific crossover. The Goldwood Sound GW-412D at $48.38 each looks to be exactly right. It may not be anywhere near the build or quality of the original graphite Pioneer. But it will probably sound incomperably better that a mismatched drive no matter the "quality". And this will give me plenty of time to recone the original woofer carefully to factor specs. Which I will do. At my leisure while enjoying these vintage Pioneers.
I have put 4 ohm 10 inch Goldwoods in Heils. 6.5 8 ohms in Baby Advents. And dozens of others. They almost always do fine. Yes, two or 3 have just sounded shitty. But most sound great. The trick is to be very careful to match the specs of the original driver. And to buy the best substitute in Goldwood's line. I mean, if they offer a $35 dollar woofer and a $55 woofer with basically the same specs, pay the extra $20! You will get much better more reliable performance.
Also, Goldwood offers so many models that you are very likely to find an exact match from them. And the match, as I indicated, is far more critical that abstract build or quality!!!
Happy building, my golden eared friends!
But there is a more important point. Using the right sort of driver is much more important that using an ultra high quality driver. In other words, if you get the efficiency, the ohms, the suspension, the excursion, and so on right then even a relatively cheap speaker will sound sound fine.
For instance, at the moment I am repairing a set of Pioneer DSS-9D speakers. They use a 6 ohm, dual voice coil, 12 inch driver. One coil just gets ultra low frequencies. The other gets more upper bass. Now many companies offer something close. "99 and 1/2 just won't do" as the song says! Close is no good. This is a very specific crossover. The Goldwood Sound GW-412D at $48.38 each looks to be exactly right. It may not be anywhere near the build or quality of the original graphite Pioneer. But it will probably sound incomperably better that a mismatched drive no matter the "quality". And this will give me plenty of time to recone the original woofer carefully to factor specs. Which I will do. At my leisure while enjoying these vintage Pioneers.
I have put 4 ohm 10 inch Goldwoods in Heils. 6.5 8 ohms in Baby Advents. And dozens of others. They almost always do fine. Yes, two or 3 have just sounded shitty. But most sound great. The trick is to be very careful to match the specs of the original driver. And to buy the best substitute in Goldwood's line. I mean, if they offer a $35 dollar woofer and a $55 woofer with basically the same specs, pay the extra $20! You will get much better more reliable performance.
Also, Goldwood offers so many models that you are very likely to find an exact match from them. And the match, as I indicated, is far more critical that abstract build or quality!!!
Happy building, my golden eared friends!
Last edited:
Goldwood is a large OEM supplier of speaker drivers. They offer a cheap way of replacing blown drivers in old speakers. Their drivers are hit and miss and their QC isn't the greatest. If you buy a dozen of the same drivers you might find a couple that measure well. It just depends. I have a pair of their titanium tweeters that sound great. They offer two versions of this tweeter. One has a round face plate the other is square. That is supposed to be the only difference but I have the round ones that sound great and had the square ones that where absolutely terrible. My suggestion is if you can afford to spend the money get better drivers. I just ordered some drivers from CDT that are excellent and will be getting them here shortly. You can simplify things for your self and just go with coaxials.
https://www.cdtaudio.com/index.htm
https://www.cdtaudio.com/index.htm