Output dissapation ratings vs amp ratings

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I faintly recall if you have an output that is rated say 125W, then it goes something like...a pair is 250w so your (safety margin) amp might be 200 max and that is 100RMS, at lowest load 2 ohms so say 50WRMS a channel at 4 ohms you might find a pair of TIP35/36C right? Maybe more if they want to push it (75wrms) or it does not double power at lower load.

Have this 'broken' amp that may or may not be properly rated, this maker has a few brands of cheaper amps and some of you can easily guess them. It says 2x300/360RMS @ 4/2 ohms, 1x720RMS bridged 1440 peak. I open it up and it has four TIP per channel. Most other ones I have seen of similar quality/size have six per channel though maybe not TIP 35/36. Isn't this a little ambitious? It has 50V 2200uf rail caps as well. A big amp with a sparse looking board even the dual PS only have four fets each. Has a large case, but no fan or huge fins and 80A of fuses.
 
You must have missed my long winded rant about how the car audio industry came after the FTC and IHF get together back in the 60's when laws were made to protect buyers from such ratings games, and how the car industry has never had to apply itself to any of those laws because it did not exist before the laws were past. And now a few years back in a much publicized marketing event they created their own new sets of power measurements that have little to do with any of the legal and Gov regulated ratings systems that have been law for 40+ years now..

Now you can't even try to compare car gear to any home or commercial gear cause they are not tested and rated anything alike....And this is no joke its apples and pomegranates now...until some group gets them reeled back into the federal standards set by the FTC....


long long ago in a galaxy far far away.. "WATT WARS" lol lol lol ....
 
CEA ratings at 14.4v, kind of a joke. I've worked on other amps from them and they might have met CEA, but this one, wow it is way out there. Same line of amps too.

The amp I run now is 4x70, and its weak, sure its CEA. 12v ratings it must be 50 if that. I used to run 2x75 12v rated amps and rarely had need for more for any non-sub use. With IB subs they did a pretty good job.

Lets see here....18.5" long....they did double up the rail caps.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

I looked up the manual, they don't say anything about CEA.
 
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1440 watts "PEAK" lol lol when lighting strikes you in the butt while your holding onto the amp maybe lol lol lol...

I see maybe a set of 2 to 300 watt toroid's cause it cheaper and easier to build two small supply's then one large one and the two supply's allow some power control to each channel thus preventing failure by way of power limitation to each channel by individual supplies.
And if those are TIP output and they are running about 35 volt rails like most other car amps then I would say you got 75 watts per at 4 ohms typically. The only way I know you could get more is either very low ohm loads bordering on SOA current limitations of the outputs or 50 to 80 volt rails and no low ohm loads at all...

I say somebody is stretching the facts a bit on this little foreign made creature.

I also have a CEA rated amp but I got it just at CEA's inception and I got it only after seeing inside the amp and knowing the company along while. PG. I use a Xenon 200.4.
The Xenon has three sets of Sanken outputs per channel and they are riding a +&-50 volt rail. The guts are there and I only worry about the supply being capable. Plus Its a four corner amp so all I wanted was clarity not bone crunching bass power. But I have not bought another CEA amp since, cause they all look cheaper and cheaper to me. Everything else I own personally is OLD....cause some companies used to mind the old FTC regs about them then... :(
 
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