At this point, none of the outputs need to be in the circuit. They weren't cut loose from the circuit at first to allow you to determine if the drive circuit was intact. Now that you know it's damaged, they can be cut out of the circuit so you can check the rest of the components.
Remember to remove the 0.1 ohm resistors also so they don't interfere with the other components.
With those components out of the circuit, you should read the correct value for most of the rest of the resistors. The value is printed on the top of the resistor. The first 2 digits are the value. The 3rd digit is the multiplier. 101 = 1,0 and 1 zero (100 ohms). 510 is 51 and no zeros (51 ohms).
Remember to remove the 0.1 ohm resistors also so they don't interfere with the other components.
With those components out of the circuit, you should read the correct value for most of the rest of the resistors. The value is printed on the top of the resistor. The first 2 digits are the value. The 3rd digit is the multiplier. 101 = 1,0 and 1 zero (100 ohms). 510 is 51 and no zeros (51 ohms).
okay now with them off i measure
r333,r334 is 200 and i measure 20 ohm so it should be fine?
r328,r329 1001 and i measure 999 ohm looks okay?
r355,r356 1001 and i measure 999 ohm looks okay?
r362,r363 200 and i measure 20 ohm looks fine?
r377 510 and i measure 51 ohm
I'm checking the rest and see if there are any bad one.
r333,r334 is 200 and i measure 20 ohm so it should be fine?
r328,r329 1001 and i measure 999 ohm looks okay?
r355,r356 1001 and i measure 999 ohm looks okay?
r362,r363 200 and i measure 20 ohm looks fine?
r377 510 and i measure 51 ohm
I'm checking the rest and see if there are any bad one.
Yes. The ones with 4 digits have 3 significant digits and a multiplier. 1001 is 1, 0, 0 and 1 zero (1000 ohms). They have a 1% tolerance. The ones with 3 digits have a 5% tolerance.
R325 is OK.
The 0.1 ohm resistors that measure 0.4 ohms are probably OK. If you touch your meter leads together, they will probably read 0.3 ohms. You have to subtract that from the actual reading when reading low value components. You must replace at least 5 of the 0.1 ohm resistors. I'd replace them all. The difference in cost won't be significant.
If you buy from Mouser, I'd recommend these:
LVR03R1000FB12
Thread hijack.
I just bought a power 1000a2 with one side blown.
Visual inspection shows 10 mosfets blown 10 resistors blown and atleast 2 of the 1001 resistors blown(r355, r385)
Although the graphic posted differs from mine slightly, it seems to be the same monster. Can I assume that I should follow the same procedure?
I may send this to a shop as soldering those little ones scares me.
I just bought a power 1000a2 with one side blown.
Visual inspection shows 10 mosfets blown 10 resistors blown and atleast 2 of the 1001 resistors blown(r355, r385)
Although the graphic posted differs from mine slightly, it seems to be the same monster. Can I assume that I should follow the same procedure?
I may send this to a shop as soldering those little ones scares me.
81300sd:
Can you send me a photo of the inside of the amp?
babin_perry@yahoo.com
This may be the same as the 1100a2. If so, it has a completely different audio amplifier section than the 800a2.
If it's like the 1100a2, you'll need to start a new thread.
Can you send me a photo of the inside of the amp?
babin_perry@yahoo.com
This may be the same as the 1100a2. If so, it has a completely different audio amplifier section than the 800a2.
If it's like the 1100a2, you'll need to start a new thread.
Well I got a schematic from Rockford for the 1000a2 and its for a 1100a2 so I am guessing its the same as the 1100a2
Heres a pic of the bad section. Everything with red arrows is confirmed dead.
Heres a pic of the bad section. Everything with red arrows is confirmed dead.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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