Ok, first of all, I am a newbie to the forums here, but not a newbie to car audio or system trouble-shootings. However I have not done any internal repairs.
So, I have a Phoenix Gold Tantrum 500.2 that has been sitting my garage for a bit broken.
It ran until something happened in my trunk and it fell from it's mounted position and boom, no more worky.
I can apply the positive and negative power terminals, but as soon as voltage is supplied to the remote switch ( to turn it on obviously) both 30A fuses blow.
I opened the amp up, and I could not find any visual defects, burn lines, etc. I don't know that I am ready to send my amp plus $115 to Phoenix Gold in Portland, Oregon to get fixed. However, I do not have the O-scope anymore to allow me to properly troubleshoot if it requires anything more than my Fluke 77.
So, hello to all, and hopefully I can get some help without crossing any intellectual copy right boundries
So, I have a Phoenix Gold Tantrum 500.2 that has been sitting my garage for a bit broken.
It ran until something happened in my trunk and it fell from it's mounted position and boom, no more worky.
I can apply the positive and negative power terminals, but as soon as voltage is supplied to the remote switch ( to turn it on obviously) both 30A fuses blow.
I opened the amp up, and I could not find any visual defects, burn lines, etc. I don't know that I am ready to send my amp plus $115 to Phoenix Gold in Portland, Oregon to get fixed. However, I do not have the O-scope anymore to allow me to properly troubleshoot if it requires anything more than my Fluke 77.
So, hello to all, and hopefully I can get some help without crossing any intellectual copy right boundries
It's unlikely that the fall would have caused the amp to fail.
Generally, if the amplifier only blows the fuses after the remote voltage is applied, the output transistors have failed.
If you pull the cover, you can check for shorted outputs. Generally the transistors short from the second to the third legs. You should not read anything near zero ohms across any two legs of any individual transistor.
If/when you pull the cover, do so very carefully. There is a small board mounted to the bottom cover and the interconnecting cable is very short.
If you're new to this type of repair work, you should read the basic repair page (link below). If you don't want to read all of it, you should at least read what's in the yellow box on the page.
Generally, if the amplifier only blows the fuses after the remote voltage is applied, the output transistors have failed.
If you pull the cover, you can check for shorted outputs. Generally the transistors short from the second to the third legs. You should not read anything near zero ohms across any two legs of any individual transistor.
If/when you pull the cover, do so very carefully. There is a small board mounted to the bottom cover and the interconnecting cable is very short.
If you're new to this type of repair work, you should read the basic repair page (link below). If you don't want to read all of it, you should at least read what's in the yellow box on the page.
Attachments
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.