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Audio Sector Kits & PC boards from AudioSector |
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#1511 |
diyAudio Member
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It is 901. Do you have any experience with VTA and tracking force?
I still have Maplenoll Ariadne to modify and expect it to be even better than Oracle; as to Oracle, I never liked the original design and I simply had to do some changes ![]()
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#1512 |
diyAudio Member
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The base uses the original acrylic plate, 3/4 aluminum and two 0.25 brass plates. The original control box was also nicely integrated.
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#1513 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: SF
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Quote:
-RT |
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#1514 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Vermont
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I have a question about heat sinking. I am building up 3875 kit. Actually it has been up and running for about a year and is now facing being enclosed. I found amongst my pile of scraps and parts a piece of 6" OD 1" wall pipe. The steel is really low grade, (sparks and flaming chips when it is cut) but it does clean up nice. So, I was wondering if I will have sufficient heat sinking if I mount the chips to a piece of .375" plate that is press fit into a 6" OD 1" wall 5" tall piece of pipe. Initially I was only going to house the power supply in the pipe, but I have realized that I have room for all of it. I will probably shield the transformer with some copper foil I have kicking around. Here is a pic of the parts and pipe.
Thanks DaveM |
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#1515 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Vermont
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Pic did not post. Try, try again.
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#1516 |
diyAudio Member
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It will probably work, but thermal release efficiency will be compromised by steel as a material, and also by substantial mass of the whole thing. Depending on how much you will be pushing the amps (volume and load), it may get only slightly warm, or may reach 40-50 deg and stay there. I was using brass rod to mount the chip (2" dia , 8" long and it was acting as heat tank, storing thermal energy, but not releasing)
Since you have it already made, it's worth trying anyway.
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#1517 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Vermont
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I have some brass bar stock sitting around as well. I think I will add a piece of brass to the top cover and mount the chips to the brass. At least this way the heat transfer to the brass is pretty good and the thermal contact area to the steel will be vastly larger than the chip surface. It can't do anything but help.
Thanks for the insight. DaveM |
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#1518 |
diyAudio Member
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You can find the numbers here: http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu...les/thrcn.html
Copper would be best.
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#1519 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cologne
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It also critically depends on your supply voltage. A supply below +-30V will heat up the chips significantly less than e.g. 35 or 40V.
Mick
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#1520 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Vermont
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Looking a bit closer at that chart, I will be better off using aluminum with a good bit of thermal paste between the steel and aluminum to prevent issues with the dissimilar metals. I always thought that brass was a better conductor than aluminum. That was defiantly a misconception.
Thanks Dave |
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