About the SL-1300
The SL-1300 (MK1, there is also a rather different MK2 version) is a fine player with sweet looks. I've got the SL-1310 at home which is the black (European) version of the SL-1300. It's more or less the fully automatic version of the SL-1200 (not the MK2).
The specs of platterweight, wow & flutter and rumble are the same.
The motor is a bit different: it's more like the 12 pole motors on the other SL-tables than the 20 pole motor of the original SL-1200. I think it's got a bit less start-up torque than the SL-1200MK2 and obviously isn't quartz controlled.
The weight is much like the SL-1200, almost 10 kg due to the massive alu diecast top-base.
It lacks the fancy big feet of the SL-1200.
The arm is also different. Better in my opinion because there is more effective length. Like the one on the SL-1200 though, it's on the heavy side (17g w/o. cart), so you need a low compliant cartridge (about 10cu dynamic compliance at 10Hz) to go with it.
Apart from the quartz locked motorspeed and the lighter arm, the main improvement made in the newer SL-1200MK2 and it's home variants is the platter damping using rubber below the platter and a thicker mat. I think this would be the best tweak for this player.
Here you can find a nice brochure on it:
http://www.vinylengine.com/library_model.php?make=Technics&selected_model=SL-1300
I've got the SL-1310, SL-1300MK2 and SL-1600MK2 models here so I'll be happy to inform you about anything.
ashok said:
The SL-1300 (MK1, there is also a rather different MK2 version) is a fine player with sweet looks. I've got the SL-1310 at home which is the black (European) version of the SL-1300. It's more or less the fully automatic version of the SL-1200 (not the MK2).
The specs of platterweight, wow & flutter and rumble are the same.
The motor is a bit different: it's more like the 12 pole motors on the other SL-tables than the 20 pole motor of the original SL-1200. I think it's got a bit less start-up torque than the SL-1200MK2 and obviously isn't quartz controlled.
The weight is much like the SL-1200, almost 10 kg due to the massive alu diecast top-base.
It lacks the fancy big feet of the SL-1200.
The arm is also different. Better in my opinion because there is more effective length. Like the one on the SL-1200 though, it's on the heavy side (17g w/o. cart), so you need a low compliant cartridge (about 10cu dynamic compliance at 10Hz) to go with it.
Apart from the quartz locked motorspeed and the lighter arm, the main improvement made in the newer SL-1200MK2 and it's home variants is the platter damping using rubber below the platter and a thicker mat. I think this would be the best tweak for this player.
Here you can find a nice brochure on it:
http://www.vinylengine.com/library_model.php?make=Technics&selected_model=SL-1300
I've got the SL-1310, SL-1300MK2 and SL-1600MK2 models here so I'll be happy to inform you about anything.
I think I have a problem. My machine is a SL1200 with an EPA120 tone arm . A picture is attached.
The service manuals of the SL1200 that most of you have, shows the area under the platter as removeable and exposing the circuit board etc. In my unit the area under the platter is part of the moulding and not removeable . None of the service manuals I have come across so far have shown this model.
Is there a service manual that shows this model ?
So do I have to open up the bottom cover to access all the boards ? A bit inconvenient to do that I guess.
There are a few screws on the chassis around the motor . Wonder what that holds. I don't want to remove anything without knowing what it does.
I forgot to mention that the platter mat is a thick black material and possibly rubber ! It's very hard right now . Is that the way it is or has the rubber ' dried up ' ?
What oil can I use for the motor? The manual mentions oiling the motor. The original vial of oil is missing.
Thanks.
Ashok.
The service manuals of the SL1200 that most of you have, shows the area under the platter as removeable and exposing the circuit board etc. In my unit the area under the platter is part of the moulding and not removeable . None of the service manuals I have come across so far have shown this model.
Is there a service manual that shows this model ?
So do I have to open up the bottom cover to access all the boards ? A bit inconvenient to do that I guess.
There are a few screws on the chassis around the motor . Wonder what that holds. I don't want to remove anything without knowing what it does.
I forgot to mention that the platter mat is a thick black material and possibly rubber ! It's very hard right now . Is that the way it is or has the rubber ' dried up ' ?
What oil can I use for the motor? The manual mentions oiling the motor. The original vial of oil is missing.
Thanks.
Ashok.
Attachments
I opened up the bottom. Looks a bit like it's from the stone age !
Well the good thing is that it probably is easier to fix !
I cleaned all pots and connectors and put them back to the original position. I haven't yet looked at the various signals. I would have liked to see a block diagram . Must go over all the other service manuals to see if any info is useful.
Cheers.
Well the good thing is that it probably is easier to fix !
I cleaned all pots and connectors and put them back to the original position. I haven't yet looked at the various signals. I would have liked to see a block diagram . Must go over all the other service manuals to see if any info is useful.
Cheers.
Attachments
I think I found the manual.
The SL1100 manual has the same electronics as the SL1200 with EPA120 arm.
So for all those with the SL120 and the old SL1200 can use the SL1100 manual from www.vinylengine.com
Cheers.
The SL1100 manual has the same electronics as the SL1200 with EPA120 arm.
So for all those with the SL120 and the old SL1200 can use the SL1100 manual from www.vinylengine.com
Cheers.
Hi,
I think the SL-1100 (SL-110 without arm) and SL-1200 (SL-120 without arm) motor are much alike. Stone age indeed. But pretty solid.
The instruction manual can be found here:
http://www.vinylengine.com/library_model.php?make=Technics&selected_model=SL-120
For the service manual you can indeed have a look at the SL-1100 or SL-110.
The oil you can use to lubricate the spindle is the same as for the other Technics Direct Drive models (SP-10, SL-1200MK2, etc etc): SFW0010. If you want to go cheap standard 15W40 motor oil is an option. Here is a pic of the original oil:
http://img74.imageshack.us/img74/2888/dsc01279st2.jpg
The mat is not the original one. It's an SL-1200MK2 mat. That's a thick, hard mat indeed. I don't think it's bad though. The original mat is the same as came with the SL-1300 (MK1). Its thin, soft and has a lot of concentric ridgjes that collect dust. See these pics:
http://www.vinylengine.com/phpBB2/album_page.php?pic_id=1881
http://web.archive.org/web/20060502165931/http://www.vintagetechnics.com/images/sl1200catalog.jpg
Here are a few pics of my SL-1310. You can see they are related. Both released in 1975. But inside it's much more crowded ince it is automatic. I see the flash of the cam reveals the dust on the cover in a very exaggerated way!
http://img126.imageshack.us/img126/6889/sl13102zv1.jpg
http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/130/sl13108fo7.jpg
http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/9685/sl13105ul6.jpg
http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/5568/sl13106np9.jpg
I think the SL-1100 (SL-110 without arm) and SL-1200 (SL-120 without arm) motor are much alike. Stone age indeed. But pretty solid.
The instruction manual can be found here:
http://www.vinylengine.com/library_model.php?make=Technics&selected_model=SL-120
For the service manual you can indeed have a look at the SL-1100 or SL-110.
The oil you can use to lubricate the spindle is the same as for the other Technics Direct Drive models (SP-10, SL-1200MK2, etc etc): SFW0010. If you want to go cheap standard 15W40 motor oil is an option.
Here is a pic of the original oil:http://img74.imageshack.us/img74/2888/dsc01279st2.jpg
The mat is not the original one. It's an SL-1200MK2 mat. That's a thick, hard mat indeed. I don't think it's bad though. The original mat is the same as came with the SL-1300 (MK1). Its thin, soft and has a lot of concentric ridgjes that collect dust.
See these pics:http://www.vinylengine.com/phpBB2/album_page.php?pic_id=1881
http://web.archive.org/web/20060502165931/http://www.vintagetechnics.com/images/sl1200catalog.jpg
Here are a few pics of my SL-1310. You can see they are related. Both released in 1975. But inside it's much more crowded ince it is automatic. I see the flash of the cam reveals the dust on the cover in a very exaggerated way!
http://img126.imageshack.us/img126/6889/sl13102zv1.jpg
http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/130/sl13108fo7.jpg
http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/9685/sl13105ul6.jpg
http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/5568/sl13106np9.jpg
Hi Guys,
I discovered that the power supply rail ( with positive ground !) seems to have 1 volt pulses on it spaced about 3 to 4 seconds apart . This is related to the speed fluctuation . It's not a constant speed error. The speed varies around the correct value.
Strangely if I apply pressure on the turntable to slow it down with friction and then slowly release the friction , the platter comes up to speed and stays correct and the power supply rail stops having those pulses. The album then plays normally. However if I stop and start again the problem appears again till I do the 'friction operation again '.
Any ideas what could be wrong ? I changed most of the electrolytic caps including the power supply cap ( up from 470uF to 2200uF ).
A scope shot is attached.
Thanks.
I discovered that the power supply rail ( with positive ground !) seems to have 1 volt pulses on it spaced about 3 to 4 seconds apart . This is related to the speed fluctuation . It's not a constant speed error. The speed varies around the correct value.
Strangely if I apply pressure on the turntable to slow it down with friction and then slowly release the friction , the platter comes up to speed and stays correct and the power supply rail stops having those pulses. The album then plays normally. However if I stop and start again the problem appears again till I do the 'friction operation again '.
Any ideas what could be wrong ? I changed most of the electrolytic caps including the power supply cap ( up from 470uF to 2200uF ).
A scope shot is attached.
Thanks.
Attachments
A quick update.
I replaced all film and electrolytic capacitors and three transistors that showed wrong ( low ) signal levels. Transistors were BC equivalents of the 2SA types and some elcos were larger than the original.
Now the machine works perfectly ! Thanks for all the suggestions that some of you made.
Cheers,
Ashok.
I replaced all film and electrolytic capacitors and three transistors that showed wrong ( low ) signal levels. Transistors were BC equivalents of the 2SA types and some elcos were larger than the original.
Now the machine works perfectly ! Thanks for all the suggestions that some of you made.
Cheers,
Ashok.
Nice to hear that the problems where solved by replacing some transistors gone bad.
I think the tonearm has quite a high effective mass, probably a bit higher than the one on my SL-1300, which is on the heavy side already.
If so, then what you need is a low compliant cartridge. When looking at the cartridges still available, the low compliant Denon DL-103 MC cartridge comes to mind. Since it's a low output MC cart you will need a good MC preamp or an MC step-up with a MM preamp.
A bit more compliant but probably still low enough are the high-output MC's Denon DL-110 and Denon DL-160, and the MM Audio Technica AT440MLa. Especially in the US the AT440MLa is very affordable: about 85 USD. The DL-110 is not expensive either, though the DL-160 probably offers a better performance/price ratio.
Apart from the match from a technical perspective you might also think of the match with the rest of your system. If your system is already on the bright side to your tastes, my experience is that a DL-160 (and probably too a DL-103) or AT440MLa can be too much out of the box. If this is the case, you could try to compensate for this by lowering the capacitive loading (MM) or lowering the cartridge load resistance (MC). See
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=59375 for a discussion on cartridge load tuning.
I think the tonearm has quite a high effective mass, probably a bit higher than the one on my SL-1300, which is on the heavy side already.
If so, then what you need is a low compliant cartridge. When looking at the cartridges still available, the low compliant Denon DL-103 MC cartridge comes to mind. Since it's a low output MC cart you will need a good MC preamp or an MC step-up with a MM preamp.
A bit more compliant but probably still low enough are the high-output MC's Denon DL-110 and Denon DL-160, and the MM Audio Technica AT440MLa. Especially in the US the AT440MLa is very affordable: about 85 USD. The DL-110 is not expensive either, though the DL-160 probably offers a better performance/price ratio.
Apart from the match from a technical perspective you might also think of the match with the rest of your system. If your system is already on the bright side to your tastes, my experience is that a DL-160 (and probably too a DL-103) or AT440MLa can be too much out of the box. If this is the case, you could try to compensate for this by lowering the capacitive loading (MM) or lowering the cartridge load resistance (MC). See
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=59375 for a discussion on cartridge load tuning.
So I replaced the AN6680, but it did not remidy the problem. It did make the table run a little more stable but I'm still can't get 2 tables to stay in sync when trying to mix. I've worked with many others 1200's so I do have a point of reference. I suppose my next step will be to replace the crystal. Btw, I have checked the pitch control settings with a voltage meter and everything is coming up good, so the pitch control is not thie issue here. Just wanted to give an update on my experience.
Technics SL-1200 Service
here`s a link for the sl 1200 Manual
free download,schematics (pdf)
www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/800/Technics_SL-1200.html
here`s a link for the sl 1200 Manual
free download,schematics (pdf)
www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/800/Technics_SL-1200.html
Attachments
Hi,
I recently bought a pair of sl1200 and both of them have the same problem.
sl1200 speed bounce
This affects the platter speed also when i'm trying to slow down the platter just a little bit. It speeds up a bit after i've slowed it down and then it returns to a stable speed.
I recently bought a pair of sl1200 and both of them have the same problem.
sl1200 speed bounce
This affects the platter speed also when i'm trying to slow down the platter just a little bit. It speeds up a bit after i've slowed it down and then it returns to a stable speed.
Woohhaaawooow!
I guess it's one of the only place where people talk about this freaky problem...
I didn't find a single page in French on this.
Well, I bought a couple of 1210, that was 3 years ago, and I had a problem with the first one after 8 months...
Sent it to the shop since it was still on warranty and I got a new one which hopefully won't die.
The guy told me that Technics had a bad stock, with messy ICs or Quartz.
I didn't have any problem until now, but of course, now that I'm screwed with the warranty, the second one shows the exact same problem than the first one: after 5 minutes, the speed starts to oscillate around -8%, and then after 10 minutes, it goes all crazy all the way from -8 to +8.
I dld the manual, and was about to go and get a scope at my lab to fix this stuff tomorrow.
But now I think I have the answer to my problem!
Thanks a lot guys, I may still verify with a scope, but I know where to check at least!!!
By the way, anyone knows where to buy the IC (AN6680) in Europe?
I'd like to buy it from the US, but last time I was f**d by the custom when I bought records from detroit
Thanks again!
I guess it's one of the only place where people talk about this freaky problem...
I didn't find a single page in French on this.
Well, I bought a couple of 1210, that was 3 years ago, and I had a problem with the first one after 8 months...
Sent it to the shop since it was still on warranty and I got a new one which hopefully won't die.
The guy told me that Technics had a bad stock, with messy ICs or Quartz.
I didn't have any problem until now, but of course, now that I'm screwed with the warranty, the second one shows the exact same problem than the first one: after 5 minutes, the speed starts to oscillate around -8%, and then after 10 minutes, it goes all crazy all the way from -8 to +8.
I dld the manual, and was about to go and get a scope at my lab to fix this stuff tomorrow.
But now I think I have the answer to my problem!
Thanks a lot guys, I may still verify with a scope, but I know where to check at least!!!
By the way, anyone knows where to buy the IC (AN6680) in Europe?
I'd like to buy it from the US, but last time I was f**d by the custom when I bought records from detroit
Thanks again!
Sorry to revive an old thread, but I had to say thanks to everyone who contributed to solving this problem. Cheers guys, you have saved me a massive headache!
My 1210 started showing the symptoms of a failing IC201 and I had no idea what was causing it until I came across this thread. Luckily in my case I didn't need to replace the chip, a resolder was enough to fix the problem.
Again, cheers guys.
Chris
My 1210 started showing the symptoms of a failing IC201 and I had no idea what was causing it until I came across this thread. Luckily in my case I didn't need to replace the chip, a resolder was enough to fix the problem.
Again, cheers guys.
Chris