Sony TTS 8000 (All in Discussion)

It is all about lack of craftsmanship from my side, still using the deck regularly. Dubai2000 and myself are waiting that this technician is finally coming to terms with our bearings, as we are not able to do it at the kitchen table.
On top of that I purchased a lovely idler deck which is surprising me with its engaging, big and energetic sound.

But I am curious myself about the impact of the bearing, so I and Dubai2000 will surely post our impressions here when the work is finally done.
 
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Having the Parts available to make a change has been the Goal of the GB.
Concerns have been raised during this period about the methodology and the skill required to achieve the exchange of parts.
I was recently informed there is a technician lined up to carry out work on one TTS 8000 based in Germany.
Is this technician to be used to work on all three TTS's based in Germany with GB Parts to be used.

As stated previously Jamie has shown a method to ensure a Fluid Type Lubricant will remain in the Sump, this is a treatment that will be worthwhile to put in place.
 
Fitting a Mission Mechanic tonearm to my TTS-8000. The first step was to make a new armboard,this is in Panzerholz. Im probably going to have to make an off set mounting collar as well .

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As you can see there's not much space to get 211mm mounting distance hence the offset collar.The board will be finished in satin black after the tonearm hole is drilled.

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After a long time I had the chance to install a pair of the TORLON bushings on one of my TTS-8000 - w/o any benefit...

I can still feel some play in the bearing of the motor unit and I still hear some noise from the bearing when the platter is rotated. The noise can be lowered when additional load is added by using a platter weight.

The bushings have been carefully pressed in and reamed it to it's final inner diameter with a 11H7 hand reamer.

Something different: Can anyone recommend a good fitting rubber slipmat replacing the warped original one?
 
i re did mine,to be honest. having done the process a few times trying to get the clearance right in 1 attempt is not going to happen. i did mine 3 times untill i was happy with no detectable play and the difference isnt subtle.i also used a chucking reamer rather than a hand one.
 
@audiomusica It has been a long time, I'm very pleased to hear you have successfully fitted the Bushes.
I struggle to be convinced the removal of Metal on Metal and now Metal on Torlon, is able to produce the reported audible sound, I have heard the use of Thermoplastic in place of metal in numerous mechanical interfaces of which quite a few are platter spindle bearings, the result I have experienced is always a substantial reduction in noise.
A very thin layer of Silicone Oil will take up any minuscule movement detected.

The following is earlier discussion presented:
As there is still some play if bushings are reamed to 11H7 as jamie reported, I wonder which type (specification) of lubrication is suitable. As This bearing is not designed for filling it it up with oil, the viscosity has to fit to the gap, to keep a small amount of lubricant in place.

Jamie has demonstrated a method that will allow for a Bearing to be filled to a chosen level.

In a post made by myself in 2022, I stated the following:
"I know my own Bearing Housing has been used for both variants of the Bushes Produced and the earliest dimension was also used on Jamie's."

My own Spindle / Torlon Bush Interface has no detectable sideways movement.

Follow up discussion on other occasions, outside of this thread, where the subject was about some of the Bushes produced suggested that to get the machining tolerances absolutely correct will most likely need each TT Spindle / Bearing Housing to be treated as a bespoke machining.

Jamie had Bushes prior to the produced batch and from the batch, I am not sure if the Batch produced Bushes were an improved fit, or a improved fitting method was used to fit them??
 
i re did mine,to be honest. having done the process a few times trying to get the clearance right in 1 attempt is not going to happen. i did mine 3 times untill i was happy with no detectable play and the difference isnt subtle.i also used a chucking reamer rather than a hand one.
I'm not sure if I got your point.

Did you re-do the bearing with TORLON bushings three times until you got it right or did you finally step back to metal bushings?
 
@JohnnoG: Just thinking of possible sources of noise. As it is the motor unit itself is causing the noise (w/o platter attachd) anything caused by the platter can be excluded (e.g. contact of the platter to any housing parts or even to the magnetic sensor).

Considering the motor unit I see four possible sources of noise:
1. Metal ball of the lower end of spindle to the plastic thrust plate (very unlikey IMO)
2. Spindle to the bushings
3. Snap ring in the spindle to the top of the bearing shaft (can be eleminated by adjusting the hight of the thrust plate in the bottom ot the motor housing)
4. Metal rotor getting in contact to the motor stator

Any other ideas?

As the noise gets significantly lowered when a platter weight is added to increase the bearing load 3. & 4. are out (IMO). So it's very likely 2. Isn't it?
 
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I can't say exactly, but do recall the Torlon being the Graphite impregnated version, this is the extended wear version, and still maintains the very high quality of being thermally stable.
The Type used is very likely 4301.

I do recall there was a wish bone type cream coloured plastic in contact with the Spindle that made a audible sound during rotation. I had the mind to remove it.

A similar functioning cream coloured part is also found on the Aurex SR 520
 
I had the spring loaded caliper brake/damper (whatever it's function is) attached to the motor units top plate in mind. The noise is still there running it w/o the caliper brake (top plate removed).

I didn't remove the thrust plate. It's still in it's original position, secured by some laquer. But to be sure I measured the distance from the top of the bearing shaft down to the thrust pad and from the ball point down the spindle to the snap ring. This gives ~1mm of clearance. Enough for excluding any inaccuracies of this measurements.

IMO it's the spindle to bushing contact causing the noise.
 
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I already gave it a couple of hours w/o any improvement.

BTW: I grabbed a test record with an unmodulated (silent) groove and listened it via headphones with the volume cranked up all the way. Of course a lot of noise from the goove but nothing that I would relate to the noise directly emitted by the bearing...
 
I gave it a few more hours spinning, just to see if it needs some run in. Also added some lubricant. I decided for a medium viscosity high quality oil. Both didn't make an improvement.
As I got three sets of bushings for my two TTS-8000, I will try a second set as soon as I've time.
BTW: The play I initially reported is gone. Either it was caused by the platter/spindle interface or the added oil catched it up.