Thorens Td160 sub chassis technical drawing/dimensions

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I'm looking for a technical drawing, dimensions or 3D model for a Thorens Td160 sub chassis.

Hi Nigel
The sub chassis is a zinc coated steel sheet approx 1mm thick, pres-formed to have the outer edges raised by 3mm so that they stiffen the plate in bending.
Among the junk piled up in my lab, the paper patron from the sub platter from my TD160 MK II has survived for some 15-20 years.
I took it out after reading your post , made a photo of it and put up the important dimensions in MS Paint while measuring with a ruler from the paper patron.

More than a few drafting rules for drawing extension lines have been violated here and I apologize for that.
I hope it will help you.

George
 

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Notice there were a couple of different versions for the tonearm cutout. The original was for the TP16 and 9" arms, while the later one works for 10" arms including the RB300. George's pattern is for the later version, the other graphic is the original.
 
I have just aquired a td160 for a good price. It's in need of maintenance as it's been stored for the past twent five years. I intend to spend some time modding it. I have a spare Linn Akito tonearm that I intend to fit. I am going to try a 3mm thick aluminium sub chassis and experiment with some platter bearing ideas I have.



Thanks to george, I have saved a little time in not having to strip down and measure myself.


Thank you again George, and thanks to the rest of you for sharing your knowledge.
 
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In addition there is a black damping material glued on the sub chassis, at least on the later versions (TD160S ?). If you need any specifics, I can check on my TT.
Mine is an older model, there was no damping material there.
I had thought the sub platter needed some vibration damping and structural strengthening.
For damping I glued on the underside a honeycomb panel (aircraft aisle floor panel).
I also glued a thick large steel washer around the platter bearing on the upper side and on the lwr side a large bronze barrel (plumper’s store item) around the bearing well, the intermediate space filled with dried sand.
I made a strong arm base from acrylic sheet pieces glued together to replace the very light weight original arm base of the SME 3009 II improved.
Sub platter was filled with expanding foam.
The thin steel plinth had 1mm lead foil glued to it’s underside plus a mixture of sand-epoxy. The fluffy decorative aluminum cover sheet was unglued, cleaned and properly glued.
Firm attachment of plinth to the wooden base
The initial plan was only to replace the original wooden frame with a bit heavy wooden base, leaving everything else as was but you know how things go (one thing leads to another)

George
 

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