Hello all,
I recapped my tuner just to gain experience and I'm really pleased with the results.
I have not spent additional money on the unit only used the parts I've already got. Most parts were new or pulled from other equipment I didn't need.
I was wondering if anyone can guide me on how to improve it to gain experience
Ive not adjusted the pots or won't be changing ceramic capacitors as I've read it's not a good idea
I have replaced:
PSU caps with some Panasonic FR/Rubycon low impedance/nichicon PW/1 blue Elna and 1 Jamicon
Signal path caps with Rubycon YXF/Jamicon
Reflowed all joints. Transformer reflow got rid of lots of noise and maybe best improvement.
Replaced a few resistors that looked dodgy
Adding dampening under board and under top cover
I changed 4 0.1uF electrolytic caps for the green plastic caps, is this a good idea? I was thinking of changing the remaining five 0.47uF electrolytic caps to small Wimas, is this a good idea?
This is part of my second system so no biggy but appreciate any possible advice, thank you
I recapped my tuner just to gain experience and I'm really pleased with the results.
I have not spent additional money on the unit only used the parts I've already got. Most parts were new or pulled from other equipment I didn't need.
I was wondering if anyone can guide me on how to improve it to gain experience
Ive not adjusted the pots or won't be changing ceramic capacitors as I've read it's not a good idea
I have replaced:
PSU caps with some Panasonic FR/Rubycon low impedance/nichicon PW/1 blue Elna and 1 Jamicon
Signal path caps with Rubycon YXF/Jamicon
Reflowed all joints. Transformer reflow got rid of lots of noise and maybe best improvement.
Replaced a few resistors that looked dodgy
Adding dampening under board and under top cover
I changed 4 0.1uF electrolytic caps for the green plastic caps, is this a good idea? I was thinking of changing the remaining five 0.47uF electrolytic caps to small Wimas, is this a good idea?
This is part of my second system so no biggy but appreciate any possible advice, thank you
Fiddling with the innards of an FM tuner is not a good idea unless you know enough about RF circuitry and have the necessary test equipment. Simple changing from one capacitor brand/type to another may do nothing, do damage or (occasionally) make a small improvement. However, you can be sure that the more time and money you spent on it the more happy you will be with the outcome - provided that it still works.
Thanks a lot for your reply and great advice
I do agree with you as I've damaged boards previously learning to get used to the irons temperature but I'm confident with it now but respect what your saying.
I see people get great advice with simple changes and your correct as I'm happy with the changes so far and don't really need to push it even though it's not essential equipment
I'm gaining experience before I throw my money at my Arcam/Audio lab main system
Much appreciate your input. This site is more for experts than it used to be 5 years ago haha
I do agree with you as I've damaged boards previously learning to get used to the irons temperature but I'm confident with it now but respect what your saying.
I see people get great advice with simple changes and your correct as I'm happy with the changes so far and don't really need to push it even though it's not essential equipment
I'm gaining experience before I throw my money at my Arcam/Audio lab main system
Much appreciate your input. This site is more for experts than it used to be 5 years ago haha
Hello, I have an ST-54L tuner that I also modded some time ago. However, I must say, it was totally worthless, singe all stations brodcast crap music, except perhaps one or two classical programs.
Nevertheless, here is what I did:
I replaced the rectifier diodes to fast (Schottky) types. Also replaced the voltage regulators to low noise types. Replaced the supply filtering electrolytic capacitors to bigger (and hopefully better) types. Strangely all these changes resulted in audibly higher distortion, but it improved by now.
I made another change a couple of years ago: I replaced the two ceramic IF filters and the transistors (better said bypassed the IF circuit) with a piggyback PCB with two 6-pole TOKO linear phase LC filters and the necessary driving transistors. At least it did not became worse, I could not measure it. It sounds good, as before.
The biggest improvement I did is I mounted a ring dipole antenna in the attic. Now I get bigger field strength with is good for S/N.
Nevertheless, here is what I did:
I replaced the rectifier diodes to fast (Schottky) types. Also replaced the voltage regulators to low noise types. Replaced the supply filtering electrolytic capacitors to bigger (and hopefully better) types. Strangely all these changes resulted in audibly higher distortion, but it improved by now.
I made another change a couple of years ago: I replaced the two ceramic IF filters and the transistors (better said bypassed the IF circuit) with a piggyback PCB with two 6-pole TOKO linear phase LC filters and the necessary driving transistors. At least it did not became worse, I could not measure it. It sounds good, as before.
The biggest improvement I did is I mounted a ring dipole antenna in the attic. Now I get bigger field strength with is good for S/N.
Great input and much appreciated as it's great information.
I was thinking of doing similar things to learn from it with the semi-conductors. I feel with your input I should just replace rectifiers and large resistors with the same ratings for reliability and piece of mind.
I understand the antenna is the best thing to improve and got a new aerial before the recap to try eliminate the noise. It improved yet later found out the noise was coming from the transformers solder joint or the 3300uF 6.3uF capacitor with I found leaked and smelly fishy, not sure that was the cause of the noise though?
Can't thank you enough for the reply sir as its well absorbed.
I'll just change the power cable for now as I've good improvements on all equipment before doing this. Only using the solid core grey cabling used in walls for mains supply soldered direct to boards
I was thinking of doing similar things to learn from it with the semi-conductors. I feel with your input I should just replace rectifiers and large resistors with the same ratings for reliability and piece of mind.
I understand the antenna is the best thing to improve and got a new aerial before the recap to try eliminate the noise. It improved yet later found out the noise was coming from the transformers solder joint or the 3300uF 6.3uF capacitor with I found leaked and smelly fishy, not sure that was the cause of the noise though?
Can't thank you enough for the reply sir as its well absorbed.
I'll just change the power cable for now as I've good improvements on all equipment before doing this. Only using the solid core grey cabling used in walls for mains supply soldered direct to boards
Hi DF96, sorry I didn't notice you posted.
I appreciate your advice.
I changed those green mylar caps the other day. I could tell the old Elna caps were not at their best by putting in the mylar caps but sound was too excited and fatigued. So I replaced them with Nichicon fine gold 0.1uF e-caps. Sorted that out.
Today I've replaced the remaining 5 original Chemi-con SME 0.47uF caps with Wima MKS2's 100v, two in PSU and 3 in FM curcuits. Also 2 Rubycons were replaced with new lower esr caps.
Fantastic results here, really impressed. Darker background, smoother vocals, tighter bass and the guitars sound great, like I hear every string note. This is after 4 hours playing.
I will replace 0.1s, 1, 3.3uF's with same Wimas next.
I've never been big on changing caps like this over the years yet I felt ignorant for too long on people hearing the difference. Always thought replacing with same brands and better values without messing up the natural tone. Yet the tone can be improved or changed for the worse I now feel.
My late father was a expert with PCs and had a shop for many years. I was never interested in PCs and he didn't bother to share his knowledge, rightly. I must have 5-10k caps in storage with the same amount of other components so it's not costing me much and feel good putting them in use. His worker continued the business and now retired, so lots of of caps have not had long shelf life
There's lots of big caps above 2200uF if anyone is interested in buying some. All unused ones are Nichicon, Rubycon, Panasonic and Teapo (guess he used those as cheap replacement alternative)
Thanks for reading
I appreciate your advice.
I changed those green mylar caps the other day. I could tell the old Elna caps were not at their best by putting in the mylar caps but sound was too excited and fatigued. So I replaced them with Nichicon fine gold 0.1uF e-caps. Sorted that out.
Today I've replaced the remaining 5 original Chemi-con SME 0.47uF caps with Wima MKS2's 100v, two in PSU and 3 in FM curcuits. Also 2 Rubycons were replaced with new lower esr caps.
Fantastic results here, really impressed. Darker background, smoother vocals, tighter bass and the guitars sound great, like I hear every string note. This is after 4 hours playing.
I will replace 0.1s, 1, 3.3uF's with same Wimas next.
I've never been big on changing caps like this over the years yet I felt ignorant for too long on people hearing the difference. Always thought replacing with same brands and better values without messing up the natural tone. Yet the tone can be improved or changed for the worse I now feel.
My late father was a expert with PCs and had a shop for many years. I was never interested in PCs and he didn't bother to share his knowledge, rightly. I must have 5-10k caps in storage with the same amount of other components so it's not costing me much and feel good putting them in use. His worker continued the business and now retired, so lots of of caps have not had long shelf life
There's lots of big caps above 2200uF if anyone is interested in buying some. All unused ones are Nichicon, Rubycon, Panasonic and Teapo (guess he used those as cheap replacement alternative)
Thanks for reading
Thanks for your reply buddy, well appreciated and absorbed. Not to worry, I don't mind being shot down, if I learn from it, from someone who knows more than me.
I did get a bit excited earlier haha. I guess I've just got rid of all the noise and returned to the original sound from the equipment.
It's just test equipment so I learn. People like yourself can accelerate others education and can't thank you enough sir.
I did get a bit excited earlier haha. I guess I've just got rid of all the noise and returned to the original sound from the equipment.
It's just test equipment so I learn. People like yourself can accelerate others education and can't thank you enough sir.
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